Dragging Clutch, First Gear Lurch from Neutral

[D0wn5h1ft]

I'm about to throw my clutch basket out of the window. I'm having some real issue with my clutch dragging. I'll be sitting at a stop light with the bike in neutral (because I'm lazy and don't like holding in the clutch) and I give it a little blip like I've been told, pull the clutch in, and then it's like kicking a horse to get not have it grind into first . I'm especially sensitive to this because I had to rebuild the tranny in my old '78 and I never want to do it again. This nice little phenomenon is also accompanied by a small lurch forward. Nothing big but definitely noticeable.

I've adjusted the crap out of my clutch. Long throw, short throw, and I've even done the trick where you ride it as hard as you can and adjust just below the clutch slipping (not fun for the neighbors) to make sure it's fully disengaged and I'm getting the full pull. I've also followed the manual to the teeth on adjusting it fresh out of the gate too.

I'm about 90% sure the plates are just dragging. It's tearing up my gears and I cringe every time it happens. At higher RPMs I've noticed that even when I'm diligent about rolling off the throttle I'll get a grind into certain gears like the clutch dragging. It's not horrible but it's destroying my transmission little by little.

Here are some details:

• Stock Springs
• 20w-50 Non-Synthetic Oil
• Brand New Clutch Cable
• Properly Adjusted Clutch (and everything in between)
• 1000 RPM idle
• Otherwise Fantastic Transmission

I've tried doing some reading on this issue and yes, I know it shifts like an old tractor and I've gotten over that. Yamaha is notorious for crappy transmissions. I don't want to make this an oil discussion but would switching to a lighter oil or a motorcycle-safe synthetic maybe help?

[D0wn5h1ft]

I did find this helpful post (#6):

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1823

I have some Barnett clutch springs sitting next to me, as well as a bunch of other parts I have yet to install (new exhaust gaskets, TC fusebox, CNC left sidecover fix, etc ). Are they longer than the stock ones/would they help a dragging clutch?

[IanDMacDonald]

I would disassemble your basket again, clean your friction plates, measure your clutch plates, install the new Barnett springs, and make sure it is assembled perfect. Aligning those plates are critical to re-installing the basket. Also make sure your clutch throw-out unit is aligned. Mine was out of place when I installed it and the clutch adjustment arm kept popping out of place, and eventually broke.

[IanDMacDonald]

And, if you place your Barnett springs next to your stockers, you'll see they are longer. It takes a little bit to get used to them, but my clutch is nice and light now.

[natemoen]

It will always clunk into first, that is the way they are. The higher the rpm the harder the clunk and then you get the lurch forward.

You would be much better off to just downshift and keep it in gear. Plus it is much safer to be able to quickly get out of the way if someone is running up on you from behind not paying attention.

[IanDMacDonald]

+1 on Nate what says. Only time I ever put it in neutral is at a light I know is long, or I shut it off and get off at a railroad crossing.

I'm wondering how high the rev is when you "blip" the throttle. If you're much higher than about 1500 rpm, you'll grind the gears putting it into first. Get those Barnett springs in there, and call it a day.

[mack]

springs

The barnets are good. The pull is different and takes some time to get the feel of them. I have them one my LH and they make it a little jumpy on the shifts.
I'd also look at the throw out. They snatch into first, but shouldn't grind.

[TopCatGr58]

I'm about to throw my clutch basket out of the window. I'm having some real issue with my clutch dragging. I'll be sitting at a stop light with the bike in neutral (because I'm lazy and don't like holding in the clutch) and I give it a little blip like I've been told, pull the clutch in, and then it's like kicking a horse to get not have it grind into first . I'm especially sensitive to this because I had to rebuild the tranny in my old '78 and I never want to do it again. This nice little phenomenon is also accompanied by a small lurch forward. Nothing big but definitely noticeable.

**snipp** I don't want to make this an oil discussion but would switching to a lighter oil or a motorcycle-safe synthetic maybe help?

Hey there, the BLIP before shifting is only while you're actually riding and rolling, not from a sitting still. What you DO want to do is pull in the clutch lever and hold it for several seconds to allow the gears to slow down a bit, and THEN downshift into 1st. There shouldn't be any grinding noise then, and the clunk/lurch forward should be very minimal. Other techniques aside from leaving in 1st and holding the lever is to turn off engine, shift into 1st and then restart and go. But IN traffic with vehicles behind you, would not advise that due to lack of availability of instant power for an emergency escape maneuver.

What rpm's are you running the bike up to before up shifting?? I would hope you're getting to 5k or more which helps take the load/stress off the tranny when you then pull the clutch and allow a 1/2 second for the engine to slow back down before shifting.

T.C.

[D0wn5h1ft]

My shift points are pretty normal. I've started to wait until higher RPMs since Mac told me I was shifting like a grandma driving an oldsmobile I'll post back when I've installed the clutch springs. It's exam week and I'm trying to not fail anything so I can graduate in a week so it might not be until next weekend.

I think I may have fixed part of my problem. My desert boots really limit the travel on my ankle and that combined with a lifetime of ankle injuries have left me a little lacking when it comes to pushing thing "up" with my foot aka the shifter. Is it possible to adjust the shifter "down" so the resting position is a bit lower so I can take advantage of more of my foot travel?

[motoman]

My shift points are pretty normal. I've started to wait until higher RPMs since Mac told me I was shifting like a grandma driving an oldsmobile I'll post back when I've installed the clutch springs. It's exam week and I'm trying to not fail anything so I can graduate in a week so it might not be until next weekend.

I think I may have fixed part of my problem. My desert boots really limit the travel on my ankle and that combined with a lifetime of ankle injuries have left me a little lacking when it comes to pushing thing "up" with my foot aka the shifter. Is it possible to adjust the shifter "down" so the resting position is a bit lower so I can take advantage of more of my foot travel?

unbolt shifter lever pinch bolt, remove bolt ALL the way, remove shifter and relocate shifer on splines in position to your liking.

[D0wn5h1ft]

unbolt shifter lever pinch bolt, remove bolt ALL the way, remove shifter and relocate shifer on splines in position to your liking.

Tried this out and it's much better! I no longer have to think so hard about every shift and it requires a lot less effort to make an up shift. I think I'll leave it in this new position as I'm sure my transmission will enjoy the more deliberate shifting.

I've noticed, compared to other bikes I've owned/ridden, that this shift lever seems to have a lot of travel. Especially, when compared to my '89 FZR600 it seems like the shift lever goes up and down for days before bottoming/topping out. Are there any known mods to maybe increase the "shift gear ratio"? There was a mod for my FZR where you could buy a new shift star plate that had more teeth which took even more travel out of the shift lever for "short shifting". You could also modify the shift linkage by lengthening the arm which would shorten the travel even more but since the XS11 doesn't have linkage that wouldn't be an option.

[motoman]

Tried this out and it's much better! I no longer have to think so hard about every shift and it requires a lot less effort to make an up shift. I think I'll leave it in this new position as I'm sure my transmission will enjoy the more deliberate shifting.

I've noticed, compared to other bikes I've owned/ridden, that this shift lever seems to have a lot of travel. Especially, when compared to my '89 FZR600 it seems like the shift lever goes up and down for days before bottoming/topping out. Are there any known mods to maybe increase the "shift gear ratio"? There was a mod for my FZR where you could buy a new shift star plate that had more teeth which took even more travel out of the shift lever for "short shifting". You could also modify the shift linkage by lengthening the arm which would shorten the travel even more but since the XS11 doesn't have linkage that wouldn't be an option.

Nope, if you pull the shift side cover, you'll see how it functions and know why no mods. can be done. Totally different animal even tho function is similar.

[TopCatGr58]

Believe it or not, they actually make a LONGER foot shifter lever(see MikesXS.net), but that would just require even MORE distance for your foot to travel. What you did repositioning the lever is about the only thing you can do, unless you wanted to modify the oem shifter and make it even SHORTER...if you have welder.

T.C.

[jrm000kc]

I put a new clutch cable on this morning-and did the adjustment the manual states to make to the lever behind the cover plate. My Clymer manual says to tighten the phillips screw until you first feel it 'bottom out' and then back it off 1/4 turn. I did this and I've noticed it really 'clunks' into first gear now. Is this normal or do I need to tighten that phillips screw a little more? Since I've asked, what exactly does that screw do anyway?

Off topic here, but I'd really like to replace the mufflers. They've had patches welded on and someone has drilled holes in the backs around the main exhaust port to apparently give it more of a 'rumble' sound. I plugged them with my fingers while still cold and I really like the quiet, more racing bike sound it produced. Any recommendations on where and what brand of mufflers to get? Also, will I have to re-jet the carbs if I do replace them?

[motoman]

I put a new clutch cable on this morning-and did the adjustment the manual states to make to the lever behind the cover plate. My Clymer manual says to tighten the phillips screw until you first feel it 'bottom out' and then back it off 1/4 turn. I did this and I've noticed it really 'clunks' into first gear now. Is this normal or do I need to tighten that phillips screw a little more? Since I've asked, what exactly does that screw do anyway?

Off topic here, but I'd really like to replace the mufflers. They've had patches welded on and someone has drilled holes in the backs around the main exhaust port to apparently give it more of a 'rumble' sound. I plugged them with my fingers while still cold and I really like the quiet, more racing bike sound it produced. Any recommendations on where and what brand of mufflers to get? Also, will I have to re-jet the carbs if I do replace them?

It adjust the correct clearance prior to throw-out bearing pressure against clutch assembly, similar to cage clutch throw-out bearing and pivot fork assembly with initial throw-out bearing clearance from clutch fingers, if that helps.

In other words, any adjustment inward from contact is actually starting to disengage clutch, using the screw adjustment instead of pulling lever slightly.

As for the exhaust, if head down pipes are not holed and in decent cond., many here have opted for HD slip-ons that were previous take-off on HD's with little expense and no needed tuning changes.