Bike Quit!

[ginger]

Bike Quit

It does not move up down or sideways, maybe in and out little, it did not really knock a lot, under load more than if you just rev it up... I was kinda thinking it was the cam chain that was causing a lot of the noise.

[BA80]

From what that pic looks like there's a main bearing toasted in there allowing the crankshaft to move up and down.

It was probably pretty loud knocking around 3 or 4 thousand RPMs.

If that's the case then start looking for an engine. Those cases are shot.

[ginger]

Bike Quit

Do you think that the leaking problem is coming from the crank moving , causing a gap in the seal?

[IanDMacDonald]

Dang, I guess that charging issue seems kinda small in comparison. I'm sorry about that. I hate when bad stuff happens.

[BA80]

From what that pic looks like it's probably the root of BOTH problems.

Sorry.......

Try cranking the engine over with all that off and see if the crank moves up and down. You'll need to figure a way to hold the oil galley plug in so it won't squirt and pull all the plug wires off so it won't start.

[IanDMacDonald]

If it makes you feel any better, I always think I have some kind of knock in my engine, and I'll find myself broke-down again one day as well.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Ginger,

First, can you take another picture more directly inline with the crank so we can see if it is still well centered in the crankcase?? That dark area on the lower left inner case could just be some old grime/oil/sludge and not necessarily a heat/friction burn spot??

Greg, he describes no wiggle like a wallowed out bearing, just a little endplay slack.

These engines are quite noisy in their normal state. A real KNOCK would/should have been noticeable. I just hate condemning the engine without more diagnostics or at least someone near him with more experience to check the engine out better. His bike stopped running because it ran out of gas, and then a low battery, not necessarily from bearing seizing or burning up

T.C.

[BA80]

It wouldn't take much to check it as I suggested, that's what I would do. And, that would account for the charging AND the seal that won't seal issue.

It looks to me even at that angle that the crankshaft is sitting way low in the journal.

[IanDMacDonald]

Okay, I have an idea only because it's done on my bike, and can testify to it working . . .

What about using some kind of sealant in-addition to that seal, fix your charging issue, and running that engine till it blows (if it ever does)? I've read some have knocks that last a long time . . .

[ginger]

Bike Quit

I'll work on some picts for youguys, I don't think its a bad bearing,
I'd like to seal it up, get it charging and I'll drive it till the wheels fail off

[BA80]

Try and get a straight on pic of that crankshaft.

[ginger]

Bike Quit

So i think I have the leak fixed and I feel the crank will be OK, I did some testing with a meter on the Stator and the field coil both seem to be good,
(field coil white to white about 1 ohm +or-, stator is about .5 ohms, all none running tests) both these tests were done with the pieces isulated (or unplugged) is there any other method to check these pieces independently to see if they are usable??

[IanDMacDonald]

So i think I have the leak fixed and I feel the crank will be OK, I did some testing with a meter on the Stator and the field coil both seem to be good,
(field coil white to white about 1 ohm +or-, stator is about .5 ohms, all none running tests) both these tests were done with the pieces isulated (or unplugged) is there any other method to check these pieces independently to see if they are usable??

Hmm, I believe the field coil should read about 3.5 ohms, and the stator windings should read around .4 ohms between each white wire.

Also, you should probe each white wire, and use the meter's other lead and touch the stator case. You should see OL. Reverse the leads, should see the same.

After this, you should start the bike and check voltage at the battery. Rev the bike, voltage should increase.