issues....again

[Truefreak104]

Okay so I have an 79 xs1100 ... saved from tweekers...my carbs r outta twak still ...getting them dialed in slowly...possible re jet for pods...anyway my number 1 carb looks like its leaking ....but its oil not fuel...checked the boots they r all tight no cracks....and second it sounds like the bike is "huffing" at idle and feels like a plugged fuel filter on a car... when first taking off in first then halfway thru it jumps and takes off...again getting carbs tuned slowly

[TopCatGr58]

Hey TrueFreak,

You need to give us a bit more info, as well as phrase an actual question of some sort!

Your signature says BOBBER, but we don't know if you have kept the OEM airbox or are using pod filters. You say you are having OIL leaking from the #1 carb. How and where are you seeing the OIL? On the inlet bell of the carb, or on the inside of the oem air filter box?? IF the air filter box, the oil you are seeing could be from the crankcase vent that connects to the bottom of the box...burping upward!?

The intake boots are not leaking thru their sides, but did you remove them from the engine? The rubber surface that mates with the engine hardens, crumbles, and can leak, hence why it's recommended to use the gray Yamabond or similar with or without gaskets when reattaching them to ensure no vac. leaks AT THE HEAD JUNCTION.

SO....again I say/ask for more DATA....what have you done to the bike/engine, how did it behave before what you did, etc., and then give us a QUESTION to answer to assist you in your diagnostics.

T.C.

[MPittma100]

Oil Leak

If oil is coming out or into the air box, the likely scenario is that there is fuel mixed with the oil in the crankcase from a leaking carb(s). There is always the possibility that there is too much oil in the engine, but you want to check for gas or too much oil before you run the engine again.

When the engine reaches operating temperature, the oil temperature is quite hot. This will cause the gas in the oil to vaporize. When this happens, a steam or vapor of gas-oil mix will start coming out of the crankcase vent tube and go right into the air box. If the engine is running and the air filter cover is on the air box, the liquid will be pulled into the engine through the carb holders. If this liquid is running out of the holders, then you have a second problem with them sealing to the cylinder head as TC mentioned.

If this has occurred, do not run the engine again without changing the oil and filter.

Lastly, get the carburetors repaired and adjusted/synced before riding it or you will not have satisfactory performance. Be patient. You will likely find yourself making several attempts at getting the carburetors to proper specs. That has happened to all of us.

[Truefreak104]

Okay sorry was a little late on replying....yes bobber with pods....no stock airbox and sstraight pipes ....bought the bike this way....saved it from tweekers......okay so the oil leak I still haven't found...tooks carbs off no oil mixing there..checked level oil was low no fuel mixed in...all the boots look great...waiting to get jets to see how the carbs run after that....any suggestions on jetting size for pods and open pipes....and also what's the deal with the coil resistor ...mine apparently doesn't have one but found the plug where it goes ...just bypassed..do I need it or is it a fail safe for the coil or computer

[BA80]

Clean the carbs and get them working properly before changing anything.
See the carb cleaning instruction in maintenance and repair sections.


You may also have a pickup coil wire making intermittent contact. Fooled with the carbs on my bike for a week or two before I discovered that it was a intermittent pickup wire problem all along.

See info about them in maintenance and repair also.

[motoman]

When all of above is done, get some muffs on it or it will never tune correctly. ii

[CaptonZap]

Measure the resistance through the primary windings of your coils. Those are the ones that are fed by the red/white wire .
If they are 3 ohms +/- then the missing resister is not an issue.
If they are 1 1/2 ohms +/-, get a resister before you burn them or your TCI out.

CZ

[Truefreak104]

Okay be s few days with work...but ill update once tests r finished.....I keep being told that if I bend the pipes in a certain spot...basically where the tips mount...if I hit it with a hammer on the end and dent the pipe in it'll keep the loudness and give it bsck pressure ....where the tip slips onto the pipe not the end of the tip...anyone heard of this before

[3Phase]

Okay be s few days with work...but ill update once tests r finished.....I keep being told that if I bend the pipes in a certain spot...basically where the tips mount...if I hit it with a hammer on the end and dent the pipe in it'll keep the loudness and give it bsck pressure ....where the tip slips onto the pipe not the end of the tip...anyone heard of this before

Truefreak,

It's basically like playing handball with the exhaust pulse so it bounces back and does some scavenging at the exhaust port. You'd have to know the length of the exhaust before tapping the tip (or anywhere else) with a hammer would do anything useful and even then it'd only 'work' for a limited RPM range, sort of like a two-smoke expansion chamber but different.

That's why Yamaha designed the Exhaust Ultimate Power Valve (EXUP) for later bikes.

.

[Truefreak104]

Okay ....ill look into getting muffs for it....okay so I hooked a vacuum gauge up to one cylinder at a time and couldn't get a reading off any of them...guage bounced around like a kid in a candy store ....do I need to do all 4 at once or do I have a major leak

[fredintoon]

Okay be s few days with work...but ill update once tests r finished.....I keep being told that if I bend the pipes in a certain spot...basically where the tips mount...if I hit it with a hammer on the end and dent the pipe in it'll keep the loudness and give it back pressure ....where the tip slips onto the pipe not the end of the tip...anyone heard of this before

Hi Truefreak,
yeah, church organ pipes are tuned by whacking dents in them.
Takes years of training and having perfect pitch to do it.
Best you install slip-on mufflers instead.
Anything will do, my classic Triumph mufflers look fine and sound great:-

[Truefreak104]

My only issue is the po bobbed the bike so they cut about a foot out of the rear...and shavdd the rear peg mounts flush..so inlost all mounting in that area

[motoman]

Okay ....ill look into getting muffs for it....okay so I hooked a vacuum gauge up to one cylinder at a time and couldn't get a reading off any of them...guage bounced around like a kid in a candy store ....do I need to do all 4 at once or do I have a major leak

Need a restrictor in end of hose. You can use a hex Keihn carb jet for that or similar to dampen the pulses. Four vacuum gauges at the same time is gonna be your best bet if you don't have a manometer(mercury) or MorganCarbTune.

[Truefreak104]

Okay what if I hooked 1&2 together to the petcock and thebsame with 3&4 then ran a jumper between the two and hooked the one gauge up ...that would at least telk me if I have a leak right ....

[Truefreak104]

Nevermind bike doesn't even start like that lol okay back to square one....can I put a check avalve on the vacuum guage to limit the air