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How do I: Shocks and Engine Guards

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  • How do I: Shocks and Engine Guards

    Hello Yamaha gurus and guru-ettes.
    I have an XS1100 and have a question about mounting engine guards and shocks. In looking at the machine it seems pretty straight forward but I just dont want to go at it and suddenly the beast uncoils like a jack-in-the-box and parts go flying everywhere because I didnt' know about some secret release spring or bolt.

    Is there some special method or process I should take note of for installing these items. Do I need to brace something with a clamp or a block of wood or the like?

    Any help in this would be greatly appreciated.

    Varp!

  • #2
    Shocks&Engine Guards

    Hey Varp Engine guards are simple , remove nuts and install guards. Shocks are easy also, put bike on center stand and remove 1 shock, replace with new one, do the same on other side, nothing will fly off. Good Luck bkr

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    • #3
      Bkr has it right - I would add that you might want to only do one engine guard at a time also

      It might not be a bad idea to put a jack with a block of wood on it under the motor to make sure it doesn't try to lean down any - though it shouldn't.
      1979 XS11F Standard - Maya - 1196cc (out of order)
      1978 XS11E Standard - Nina - 1101cc
      http://www.livejournal.com/~xs11

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      • #4
        I have a set of 3-pont guards in the front that are mounted also with the long engine mount bolt. This requires one side to be mounted before the other, for obvious reasons.

        Originally posted by Snow
        Bkr has it right - I would add that you might want to only do one engine guard at a time also

        It might not be a bad idea to put a jack with a block of wood on it under the motor to make sure it doesn't try to lean down any - though it shouldn't.
        Skids (Sid Hansen)

        Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

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        • #5
          Engine guards....

          The 3-point units I put on my XJ required a longer bolt than stock. I found one (in metric) at the local hardware store. You may have to do the same. A small jack under the engine can help, as the long bolt is an engine mount bolt, and the engine will drop slightly when you remove the bolt. Jack and block of wood can help aligning the bolt by lifting the engine slightly, less than 1/4 inch, so you don't need much. An old scissors jack works OK. Other wise no special technique.

          Shocks....

          Best if you have the bike up on center stand, take all weight off wheel. Note that the left and right shocks have different lower mounts, so it is best to do one side at a time. If replacement shocks are new you may have to find the right size spacer from those provided; if not, use the one from the old shock. Assuming the new shocks have springs on them. It is possible to get shocks with no springs and re-use the stockers; if you go this way you will need a spring compression tool to remove the springs from the old shocks and put them on the new ones. This is a specialty tool and you may want to farm the job out to a shop. However, the $35 - $75 for the tool will pay for itself in 1 or 2 such swaps. Progressive has a couple listed on their web page. Once the tool compresses the springs, a retainer is removed from the top of the shock and the springs slide off. Don't fool with anything but the tool designed for this job; it takes 140 pounds to compress the springs 2.2 inches, then 160 pounds to compress them the rest of the way...force than can cause bodily damage!

          Neither is a difficult job, but having the right tools makes it faster and safer.
          Jerry Fields
          '82 XJ 'Sojourn'
          '06 Concours
          My Galleries Page.
          My Blog Page.
          "... life is just a honky-tonk show." Cherry Poppin' Daddy Strut

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