Stator Installation: Things to look for

[IanDMacDonald]

I put some Trans gel on the outside ring of the stator, and it dropped right in place, after fighting with it for 30 minutes trying to get it in last night. I'll pull it back out today to see if it can go in any different.

[IanDMacDonald]

So, my mechanic buddy just told me that if the rotor was rubbing on the stator at any point, that it's junk. Is this true? Even after I shut it down, wiggled stuff around and started it back up, I still saw OL on the leads to ground, and charging voltage. Bike won't be started tI'll I figure out why it's hitting.

[crazy steve]

So, my mechanic buddy just told me that if the rotor was rubbing on the stator at any point, that it's junk. Is this true?

Not necessarily. Marks on the rotor and steel core should be smoothed off, but won't hurt the operation. If the rotor has been bent out of true, then it would need to be replaced. You may want to check for runout.

[IanDMacDonald]

So, got on this this morning. All electrical checks were good. Took a dremel to the rotor and brought the edges down, then followed with a sanding of the rotor. Cleaned the stator, verified it was clean, then put it back on. However, I believe I found my issue. The right side of the block has a broken piece that holds the locator dowel. I never worried about it, as there is no oil there. But, I talked to my motorcycle mechanic, and he said that the dowel holds the cover true. So, I just removed the broken piece, and have the cover mounted with four screws and one locator dowel on the left. Verified it was charging, saw nodrag marks on the rotor, and been riding it all day with my Fluke wired to the battery. In the process of looking for a LCD voltmeter gauge.

[crazy steve]

If you're missing one of the locating dowels and can't replace it because of case damage, I'd use an adhesive sealer to attach the cover so as to hopefully prevent the cover from moving in use. That will make it hard to get off later, but may be cheap insurance...

[IanDMacDonald]

Hmm. I'm almost scared to remove the cover again, lol.

[IanDMacDonald]

That's it, all buttoned-up and ready to ride hopefully. Ran it all day with my Fluke on it, and it kept charge. Went to Wal-Mart and bought an LCD voltmeter for $5 on clearance. Switched power works well. Just gotta figure out how to fix the hole in my case .

[Winterhawk]

I too am having a charging problem. The Stator and Field Coils check out ohm wise, no short to ground on the white wires. I did have to make a connector for it off of a xj650 harness. The yellow went to the yellow. Does it mater which white wire goes to the other white wires in the harness plug?

Also I have 2 voltage regulators. Both have only 2 wires on the green and brown connector instead of 3 wires. Does this make a difference? I think both failed the test on the exact same diode according to the factory manual.

Didn't want to start a new thread as mine has a similar problem also.

Thanks for the help.

[IanDMacDonald]

I'm not 100% for sure that it matters or not, but I would attempt to put them back in the order that they were in, as each wire is a ddtator phase winding. As to your regulators only having two white wires? Doesn't sound like an XS1100 R/R then, as it should have the same three white wires, in-addition to have a brown and green (maybe black too) coming off it.

[IanDMacDonald]

And, btw, I'm not sure the Clymer manual is 100% right on the diode tests. One of them says to goto B, and there is no B labeled. I don't think my R/R passed that test, but it's still working. Geezer R/R is in my future.

[bikerphil]

I am pretty sure with the white wires there is no specific order, I just rebuilt the charging system section of my harness eliminating the plugs (not paying close attention to the orientation) and I'm sure I mixed the white wires up, works just fine. The yellow wire (78-79) must go to the yel for the headlight relay trigger.

Edit: The regulator 3rd wire (black ground) was eliminated at some point, probably not necessary as the unit grounds thru it's chassis.

[crazy steve]

I am pretty sure with the white wires there is no specific order...

As long as they're white-to-white, it makes no difference....

[bikerphil]

Yep Steve, that's what I meant, thanks for clearing that up. I might add that eliminating the connector behing the fuse panel and the one at the voltage regulator and using new 14g wire gave me some awesome charging voltage.

[IanDMacDonald]

I'm curious how much more voltage? I think the highest I see on my bike is 14.5v.

[bikerphil]

Yep, that's what I have, about 14.5V, my connectors had seen better days, they had to go.