piston rings

[wjw11teen]

considering a re ring job for my bike while its apart

found a set on ebay but not sure if they are correct..my bores are stock

these rings are NOS..OEM # 2H7-11610-11

wondering if these are the ones i need..also is there anything special i should know about honing the cyl? im having it done at a reputable machine shop

thanks

bill

[TopCatGr58]

Hey there,

IF they are this set:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FOUR-New-Nos...-/400645398250

Then they are NOT because these are the 4th oversize, and you can't get PISTONS for them!!! They can not be used on your OEM sized pistons. Folks have gotten the 1st oversize and filed the ends to get the proper end gap, and were able to hone the cylinders, and they worked fine. You will need to measure your clyinders at several locations along the stroke to see if they are within HONING spec or if they are too worn? IF too worn/out of round, then you'll need to get a big bore kit of one of 2 flavors/sizes and then get them BORED to match the new pistons/rings!

Also be aware that when a seller says it's a SET of rings, they are often talking about a SET of 3 rings for 1 cylinder....compression and oil rings, not a set enough for 4 cylinders. The item above IS for a set of 4 pistons, but not usable!

T.C.

[crazy steve]

2H7-11610-11

That's the first 'oversize' part number and will have to be filed-to-fit to get the proper ring end gap. They'll work, more than a few guys have used oversize rings filed down due to the scarcity of 'standard' sets. If they are the fourth oversize, you can still use them but will have a lot of filing to do and not-so-great ring/bore life. T.C., I talked to a 'ring tech' and he did say you could use oversize rings filed-to-fit, but because they're designed for a larger bore, the ring tension will be too high, seriously shortening ring/bore life. The larger the oversize, the worse the problem.

Make sure you don't have a 'ridge' at the top of the bore, and check the end gap at several places in the bore to make sure so if you have any taper the ring gap doesn't close up as the piston moves up and down. Hone the bore just enough to remove the 'glaze' with a cross-hatch pattern.

[wjw11teen]

those are the ones...oh well

there is a slight carbon ridge on top of cylinders

engine was only supposed to have 17,000 miles

imnot seeing any cross hatch left in cyl....makes me wonder...the cross hatch lasts alot longer in a nycasil coated dirt bike cyl...

i know....this is'nt a dirt bike....

should the hatch still be there considering milage on this engine? how about the carbon ridge?

[crazy steve]

Not seeing any crosshatch at those miles is 'normal'. And if the ridge is just carbon, it'll clean out with a bit of steel wool.

If there's no obvious signs of 'distress' in the bores, put 'er back together and run it...

I'm not a fan of nikisil on air-cooled motors, and not much more of one if they're water-cooled. No overbores allowed and you have to control temps closely or dimensional stability can be poor.

[wjw11teen]

thanks for the info steve

i agree on the coated cyl..dirt bikes come factory with it

i like it there becausere ring jobs are a snap..usually no damage ..unless it got too hot..

next step is to fireup a jack hammer and remove the rest of the base gasket...

holy crap that stuff is on there !!!

[Orange4]

A can of spray on paint and gasket remover will turn that base gasket removal job into an easy one. I spray some into the cap and apply it with a brush so I don't get it on the frame or case.

[Radioguylogs]

considering a re ring job for my bike while its apart

found a set on ebay but not sure if they are correct..my bores are stock

these rings are NOS..OEM # 2H7-11610-11

wondering if these are the ones i need..also is there anything special i should know about honing the cyl? im having it done at a reputable machine shop

thanks

bill

Bill:

Don't be afraid to hone the cylinders yourself.

IMO, the flex hone is the way to go. You can do it easily and correctly with a hand-held electric drill.

http://www.brushresearch.com/

I expect most folks choose the 2 7/8" diameter brush with 180 or 220 grit silicon carbide particles. I choose 220 grit to be conservative

http://www.yamaha-triples.org/forums...131938#M131938

I did the honing on my triple at 18,000 miles- almost the same mileage as your project. The cylinder walls were shiny smooth without any crosshatching left. I measured the bores with an expensive Mititui gage and a inexpensive Sears Craftsman gage. The measurements were reasonably consistent. The cylinders were straight on the sides where the wrist pins are, but they had a 0.001" hourglass perpendicular to the wrist pins,. The spec is 0.002" , so they were in spec at the equivalent mileage to your project.

I just put the cylinder head over a trash can with the floor covered around it. I oiled the flex hone brush and the cylinders. I chose a setting on my drill to go 1200 RPM, and I moved the brush in and out of each cylinder about as fast as my arms could do it.

Turns out I moved my arms a little fast, and I got an 80 degree angle between the crosshatch lines instead of the preferred 45-60 degrees, but I don't think it is critical.

After assembly, my compression measured perfectly in all cylinders and they have a couple thousand happy miles on them already.

Kind of fun to learn new things (as long as it is not the hard way).

...and I'm sure the local gurus can add their wisdom.

[Rettic]

When I did my ring job, i could not find any standard rings, then I came across this guy on ebay. Currently he does not have any 1100 rings listed, but if you contact him he may have some he can sell you. So far so good in my engine, 1300 miles later not a drop of oil burned, perfect compression. These are not NOS, they are New rings.

http://www.ebay.com/usr/radiomedic702