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Petcock rebuild and carb testing
I got the two petcocks cleaned and found that the internals were all fine, so I didn't need the rebuild kits which are so readily available on eBay. I did replace the screws on the petcocks with stainless Allen bolts and countersunk screws.....


It's only a small detail but they tend to add up. One rusty screw can spoil things....
I connected up the bank of carbs to the fuel tank , off the bike, and found a sticking float valve which instantly flooded fuel,out through the carb mouth. Annoying, given that I replaced all the seats and needles but better to discover it with the carbs off the bike. So a bit off attention to #2 carb tomorrow!
Onwards and upwards....Leave a comment:
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Ok then James, if you trust it then thats ok. Myself, I've never trusted any bonding chemicals that are exposed to fuel, even fuel vapors. I've never had much luck with that.Leave a comment:
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It won't. CT-1 is resistant to everything and physically it would be highly unlikely to get into the carbs anyway, I reckon. It's sandwiched between the body of the carb and the inner metal pipe of the tee and the hemisphere filters stop most crud. Once CT-1 is set, it's like rubber. Amazing stuff.....Leave a comment:
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I hope whatever you coated the O-rings with in the above pic doesn't decide to come loose, could leave a big mess in the carbs, just saying. Bike looks great BTW.Leave a comment:
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Getting there
Here's a few pix, folks. The project is now mobile, which makes things easier.



I found some 8mm wide stainless pipe clips on the internet. They are only large Jubilee type clips but they have a large area without the drive thread, so look OK, especially when polished with a buffer. OEM ones are still available but at approx $10 each and only mild steel, so I'm not bothering with those....

As things stand at the moment, the bike looks as per the pix. The brakes work. I've tested all the electrics apart from the charging side and everything works 100%. There's oil in the engine and I've turned the engine with the starter to pump it round..the oil light goes off after several turns, so pressure seems fine. I also loosened the banjo on the to do the oil feed pipe to the cylinder head and oil splurged out when the engine was turned.....
The next job is to get the carbs back on. I'm waiting for the CT1 sealer to harden on the O-ring fix on the carb tees, then I should be ready to connect the carbs up to the tank (all done off the bike) to check for leaks.

Then it will be ignition system time. I've not actually connected up the coils yet and have left the TCI disconnected for the moment. I ordered some bullet terminals to connect the coils up with and am waiting for those to arrive......
Onwards and upwards. I just hope the danged thing works at the end of all this!!Leave a comment:
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You are correct. There's only one of the on the bike. It's only on the right side. The left side uses a metal bracket with the indicator cancel unit attached to it....Leave a comment:
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At first I thought it was the piece to the battery strap, but that's a solid bar. It really does not look familiar.Leave a comment:
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Yeah, one of the signs of being low on oil is the heat the bike radiates when the oil isn't topped up...or so I've been told, as I would never go long without checking it...again....Leave a comment:







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