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Middle drive and final drive filler plug size

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  • Middle drive and final drive filler plug size

    I need to replace the filler plugs for the middle and final drive. Does anybody know what the size is so I can get them prior to taking them out?

    Thank you,

    Steve
    79 XS1100 SF

  • #2
    Pretty sure they are the same thread as the oil pan drain plug which is 12MM 1.50 pitch. Maybe someone else can also confirm this. Here is the Yamaha P/N for both mid and final drive filler plugs... 90340-14046-00 PLUG,STRAIGHT SCRW.
    Last edited by bikerphil; 03-21-2014, 05:29 PM.
    2H7 (79) owned since '89
    3H3 owned since '06

    "If it ain't broke, modify it"

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    • #3
      Thank you for the part numbers, I was actually thinking of replacing them with hex head bolts. What are your thoughts on doing this?
      79 XS1100 SF

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      • #4
        Originally posted by unicorncomputer View Post
        Thank you for the part numbers, I was actually thinking of replacing them with hex head bolts. What are your thoughts on doing this?
        Both my final and middle drive have flanged hex head on them. Ace, Tru-Valu, ect. in their specialty trays have the 'filler' plugs and next tray, the heavy good fitting fiber washers. Use one on the middle drive and double stack them on the final drive(housing has a recess that flanged bolt will hit otherwise).
        81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

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        • #5
          Tip:

          Either way you go, hex head or original, reinstall with a little anti-sieze on the threads.
          1980 XS1100G "Dolly G" Full Dresser (with a coat of many colors )
          1979 XS1100SF (stock-euro mods planned)
          1984 XV700L Virago (to be hot-modded)
          1983 XJ750MK Midnight Maxim (semi-restored DD)
          1977 XS650D ( patiently awaiting resto)

          Sometimes it takes a whole tank of gas before you can think straight.

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          • #6
            Nobody is curious as to why the least-wrenched bolts on the bike have to be replaced? i'm curious . . .
            1979 XS1100F
            2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

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            • #7
              Most likely the bolts that need replaced had been galded and the hex keyed head has been stripped and the bolt has been removed with a chisel.

              I was lucky on my '80G only took a 1' cheater pipe but I didn't strip 'em , haven't tried the SF yet.
              1980 XS1100G "Dolly G" Full Dresser (with a coat of many colors )
              1979 XS1100SF (stock-euro mods planned)
              1984 XV700L Virago (to be hot-modded)
              1983 XJ750MK Midnight Maxim (semi-restored DD)
              1977 XS650D ( patiently awaiting resto)

              Sometimes it takes a whole tank of gas before you can think straight.

              Comment


              • #8
                While they might be the least wrenched bolt on some bikes, they should be checked at least annually. Which may match an oil change for some people.

                It is also VERY common that they are stuck and strip the hex head opening round. So, no, I am not surprised they need to be replaced at all.
                Life is what happens while your planning everything else!

                When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.

                81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
                80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection


                Previously owned
                93 GSX600F
                80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
                81 XS1100 Special
                81 CB750 C
                80 CB750 C
                78 XS750

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                • #9
                  Just remember, make sure you can get the fill plug out before you take the drain plug out!
                  Nathan
                  KD9ARL

                  μολὼν λαβέ

                  1978 XS1100E
                  K&N Filter
                  #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
                  OEM Exhaust
                  ATK Fork Brace
                  LED Dash lights
                  Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

                  Green Monster Coils
                  SS Brake Lines
                  Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

                  In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

                  Theodore Roosevelt

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by natemoen View Post
                    Just remember, make sure you can get the fill plug out before you take the drain plug out!
                    I took this advice very seriously a few weeks ago. I used my hex sockets, and they broke with ease. Middle drive looked like coffee creamer, final drive looked like new oil.
                    1979 XS1100F
                    2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

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                    • #11
                      If your middle drive oil looked like coffee creamer, you've had water intrusion in the MD. Needless to say, not good. I can't imagine how you'd get that water in there.
                      That's why boaters check the lower unit oil of their outboard often, and finding "mayonnaise" color oil points to a bad shaft seal. Running it without replacing the seal leads to transmission failure.
                      1980G Standard, Restored
                      Kerker 4 - 1
                      850 Rear End Mod
                      2-21 Flashing LED Arrays on either side of license plate for Brake Light Assist, 1100 Lumen Cree Aux Lights,
                      Progressive springs, Showa rear shocks
                      Automatic CCT
                      1980GH Special, Restored
                      Stock Exhaust, New Handlebars, 1" Spacer in Fork Springs, Automatic CCT, Showa Rear Shocks
                      '82 XJ1100 (Sold)
                      Automatic CCT, RC Engineering 4 X 1 Exhaust, K&N Pods, #50 Pilot Jets, YICS Eliminator. Sorely missed.

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                      • #12
                        I say change the fluid and monitor the level and any changes in color often, at least for a while. I bought a used sx11 and it looked the same way. This thick white gunk did not show on the dipstick. I have done a few middle drive oil changes since and there are no more signs of it. Don't go chasing ghosts if you don't need to!
                        Skids (Sid Hansen)

                        Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

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                        • #13
                          Hmm. One more thing to worry about now. Thanks fellas.
                          1979 XS1100F
                          2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

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