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Pretty sure they are the same thread as the oil pan drain plug which is 12MM 1.50 pitch. Maybe someone else can also confirm this. Here is the Yamaha P/N for both mid and final drive filler plugs... 90340-14046-00 PLUG,STRAIGHT SCRW.
Thank you for the part numbers, I was actually thinking of replacing them with hex head bolts. What are your thoughts on doing this?
Both my final and middle drive have flanged hex head on them. Ace, Tru-Valu, ect. in their specialty trays have the 'filler' plugs and next tray, the heavy good fitting fiber washers. Use one on the middle drive and double stack them on the final drive(housing has a recess that flanged bolt will hit otherwise).
81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.
Just remember, make sure you can get the fill plug out before you take the drain plug out!
Nathan
KD9ARL
μολὼν λαβέ
1978 XS1100E K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters Green Monster Coils SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
Just remember, make sure you can get the fill plug out before you take the drain plug out!
I took this advice very seriously a few weeks ago. I used my hex sockets, and they broke with ease. Middle drive looked like coffee creamer, final drive looked like new oil.
1979 XS1100F
2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.
If your middle drive oil looked like coffee creamer, you've had water intrusion in the MD. Needless to say, not good. I can't imagine how you'd get that water in there.
That's why boaters check the lower unit oil of their outboard often, and finding "mayonnaise" color oil points to a bad shaft seal. Running it without replacing the seal leads to transmission failure.
1980G Standard, Restored
Kerker 4 - 1
850 Rear End Mod
2-21 Flashing LED Arrays on either side of license plate for Brake Light Assist, 1100 Lumen Cree Aux Lights,
Progressive springs, Showa rear shocks
Automatic CCT 1980GH Special, Restored
Stock Exhaust, New Handlebars, 1" Spacer in Fork Springs, Automatic CCT, Showa Rear Shocks '82 XJ1100 (Sold)
Automatic CCT, RC Engineering 4 X 1 Exhaust, K&N Pods, #50 Pilot Jets, YICS Eliminator. Sorely missed.
I say change the fluid and monitor the level and any changes in color often, at least for a while. I bought a used sx11 and it looked the same way. This thick white gunk did not show on the dipstick. I have done a few middle drive oil changes since and there are no more signs of it. Don't go chasing ghosts if you don't need to!
Skids (Sid Hansen)
Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.
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