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Too Cold to Start, or Starter Clutch Going Bad?

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  • Too Cold to Start, or Starter Clutch Going Bad?

    Just got the clutch actuator arm back on. Man, those Barnett Clutch Springs are stiff!! Anywho, turn the key and hit the starter and the whirl sound of the starter spinning. I looked down at the kicker to make sure it was not out of place, and hit it again. A few turns of the engine and whirl sound again. Bike started just fine the other day @ 50°F.
    1979 XS1100F
    2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

  • #2
    Originally posted by IanDMacDonald View Post
    Just got the clutch actuator arm back on. Man, those Barnett Clutch Springs are stiff!! Anywho, turn the key and hit the starter and the whirl sound of the starter spinning. I looked down at the kicker to make sure it was not out of place, and hit it again. A few turns of the engine and whirl sound again. Bike started just fine the other day @ 50°F.
    It's too cold. Same thing happens to me when it gets this cold (7F this morning). Especially if you're running 20w50 like me . Switch to 10w40 for the spring if it stays this cold.
    78 E - 2to1 exhaust, dynatek coils, special headlight [SOLD!]
    79 F - gas tank refurb, headgasket change, straight pipes, late model carbs, virago lowering shocks, special headlight and gauges, TC fuse block, GSXR-1100 carbs (WIP)


    "May my tires not fail me, nor my engine grow cold"

    Comment


    • #3
      Haha, there is no way I'm switching oils again. 20W-50, and nothing else from now on. Cold it is, thanks Gabe.
      1979 XS1100F
      2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

      Comment


      • #4
        Sometimes all the oil drains from the starter clutch area and it can't grab. Some have squirted oil into the are that the starter goes into the engine.

        Or you could kick start it still it starts or primes all the passages with oil.
        Nathan
        KD9ARL

        μολὼν λαβέ

        1978 XS1100E
        K&N Filter
        #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
        OEM Exhaust
        ATK Fork Brace
        LED Dash lights
        Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

        Green Monster Coils
        SS Brake Lines
        Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

        In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

        Theodore Roosevelt

        Comment


        • #5
          Yep, completely normal in the cold. Also, you may find that when you engage first gear, the bike lurches forward or stalls, or crunches. Again, this is caused by cold oil. I always warmed mine up for a while, pulled the clutch several times and blipped the throttle, then engaged first gear.

          That whirring is annoying though but definitely cold oil is usually the cause....
          XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

          Comment


          • #6
            poor design but it is what it is
            where are we going, and why are we in this hand basket?
            Iowa the Beautiful Land 1980 XS1100SG

            Comment


            • #7
              If I haven't started the bike for awhile, or it's start of the season and I want to drive the bike, I always put it in 3rd or 4th gear with the clutch pulled in and the rear brake on BEFORE I hit the starter. That breaks the oil stuck clutch plates apart without killing you. :-)

              Originally posted by James England View Post
              Yep, completely normal in the cold. Also, you may find that when you engage first gear, the bike lurches forward or stalls, or crunches. Again, this is caused by cold oil. I always warmed mine up for a while, pulled the clutch several times and blipped the throttle, then engaged first gear.
              Bone stock 1980 Special except for the exhaust and crashbars. Oh yeah, and the scabbard for the Winchester Defender.

              Comment


              • #8
                OK, so I will be the voice of dissention. No matter how cold it is out, and I always keep 20W50 in the bike, I have yet to have an issue with getting the bike to start IF...yes IF...the battery has good full charge on it.

                Now, anytime the battery is getting weak, I may not get full engagement of the starter clutch. We have all heard that half hearted crank followed by the whining grindy almost coughing noise. But get a full charge on the battery and it goes away.

                So, there is more to it than just the temps.
                Life is what happens while your planning everything else!

                When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.

                81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
                80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection


                Previously owned
                93 GSX600F
                80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
                81 XS1100 Special
                81 CB750 C
                80 CB750 C
                78 XS750

                Comment


                • #9
                  That's what my gut told me Don, and I'm not happy to hear that. I had an AGM battery that passed charging and a battery analyzer I bought. However, put it on the bike and slow starting showed it was not good. Put the Walmart battery on it I purchased two years ago, and started right up. However, a Walmart battery is a Walmart battery, and I think that even though the charge is holding, it's probs a dud now too.
                  1979 XS1100F
                  2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by IanDMacDonald View Post
                    That's what my gut told me Don, and I'm not happy to hear that. I had an AGM battery that passed charging and a battery analyzer I bought. However, put it on the bike and slow starting showed it was not good. Put the Walmart battery on it I purchased two years ago, and started right up. However, a Walmart battery is a Walmart battery, and I think that even though the charge is holding, it's probs a dud now too.
                    AGM batteries do not play well in the cold. I have the same problem with my AGM. It's not that your battery is bad it's just that they suffer at reduced temperatures whereas wet-cell don't as much. When it gets cold you have a great reduction in the battery's CCA (cold cranking amp) output. AGM batteries are very resilient in that they put up with being frozen and then thawed out. That doesn't mean they can perform at extreme temperatures, just survive them.

                    Take a look at this graph for some rough numbers:



                    As you can see at even 32F AGM batteries suffer at 60% reduction in capacity (which translates into fewer CCAs). Today we were down to 7F...you can do the math.
                    78 E - 2to1 exhaust, dynatek coils, special headlight [SOLD!]
                    79 F - gas tank refurb, headgasket change, straight pipes, late model carbs, virago lowering shocks, special headlight and gauges, TC fuse block, GSXR-1100 carbs (WIP)


                    "May my tires not fail me, nor my engine grow cold"

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      AGM's are still wet cell lead-acid batteries, just absorbant glass matting between cells being the difference(changes flow rate of electrons).
                      81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        But it was 50° when the battery was slow to turn the motor over. That's the ultimate load test for me.
                        1979 XS1100F
                        2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          +1 to the comments about a hot voltage source for the starter clutch to catch.

                          Before you go blaming the battery, clean and tighten all of your electrical connections to the starter motor. And I mean also remove the starter and clean the lands on the engine because that's the only ground return for the starter and it goes unattended. I added a return leg to the battery for a better ground at the starter.
                          Former owner, but I have NO PARTS LEFT!

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            FWIW, those Wally world batteries are all I ever buy. (well, I get the Meijer ones since the Walmart batteries locally never come with enough acid). I got four years out of my last one, and that is without removing it over winter or putting on a charger over winter.
                            Life is what happens while your planning everything else!

                            When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.

                            81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
                            80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection


                            Previously owned
                            93 GSX600F
                            80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
                            81 XS1100 Special
                            81 CB750 C
                            80 CB750 C
                            78 XS750

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Alright Davinci and Don, one more thing to look at besides an oil leak Thanks. Just another thought, I wonder if I weakened the battery letting it idle for ten minutes while looking for plug color (box fan in-front obviously)?
                              1979 XS1100F
                              2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

                              Comment

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