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  • #16
    Well, I just went out and completely bled the brakes on my GS850. Did not even bother bench-bleeding the M/C. Reverse-bled through the bleeder valve, and the lever was rock-hard with the first caliper. Same results with the second. You got some issues with something.
    1979 XS1100F
    2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by Eveready1100 View Post
      Mate, please define

      If you're doing what it sounds like you're doing, you are destroying the brake lines integrity and there'll be fluid flowing through the internal fractures in them.
      Any chance of a photo to show how you are doing this??
      This one of my clamps, used by mechanics to isolate parts of the brake system

      80 SG
      93 ST1100 Honda
      66 split screen VW bus

      Comment


      • #18
        Jat

        The placement of the bleed screw, on the caliper, is to let air out when "forward" bleeding.

        When reverse bleeding, the caliper, you may have to have the bleed screw lower than the banjo.
        1980 XS1100G "Dolly G" Full Dresser (with a coat of many colors )
        1979 XS1100SF (stock-euro mods planned)
        1984 XV700L Virago (to be hot-modded)
        1983 XJ750MK Midnight Maxim (semi-restored DD)
        1977 XS650D ( patiently awaiting resto)

        Sometimes it takes a whole tank of gas before you can think straight.

        Comment


        • #19
          Interesting! So, remove the caliper, place something between the piaton and caliper wall to simulate the rotor, and turn clockwise and try it?
          1979 XS1100F
          2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

          Comment


          • #20
            Yes Ian, only on reverse pressure bleeding though, might this be helpful.

            Air will find its way to a high point in the system and get trapped by a dip, have to eliminate the "dips" so the air flows up.

            When "forward bleeding" the "dip" is the low location of the calipers that proves arduous trying to push air down that wants to come up.

            One reason Dons stated method works is the MC is left open to let the air rise, but the lids breather port must be clean or better yet leave the lid off over night.

            Reverse bleeding is a good method for calipers that are lower than MC's
            which is just about all vehicles.
            1980 XS1100G "Dolly G" Full Dresser (with a coat of many colors )
            1979 XS1100SF (stock-euro mods planned)
            1984 XV700L Virago (to be hot-modded)
            1983 XJ750MK Midnight Maxim (semi-restored DD)
            1977 XS650D ( patiently awaiting resto)

            Sometimes it takes a whole tank of gas before you can think straight.

            Comment


            • #21
              Oh, I agree whole-heartedly Schming. Worked flawless for me! Dunno why he is having issues. I look forward to hearing of his successful bleeding story.
              1979 XS1100F
              2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

              Comment


              • #22
                Thanks guys,this is really pissing me off, I have bled hundreds of brakes but never have I had so much trouble, I can bleed my VW bus brakes on my own in 1/2 an hour by jaming a spring loaded rod I made on the brake pedal but this simple bike job is proving to be a nightmare. I will try the reverse method with the callipers turned 180. Has anyone had trouble with K&L m/c and calliper kits ?
                80 SG
                93 ST1100 Honda
                66 split screen VW bus

                Comment


                • #23
                  Mate, please define
                  Quote:
                  if I clamp the calliper lines just above the banjos, the lever is solid, its only when clamps are removed that I get a soggy lever which points to air trapped in the callipers
                  If you're doing what it sounds like you're doing, you are destroying the brake lines integrity and there'll be fluid flowing through the internal fractures in them.
                  Any chance of a photo to show how you are doing this??
                  This one of my clamps, used by mechanics to isolate parts of the brake system


                  Ok, That answered that question. Maybe you'd be best to start with a good, undamaged set of brake lines and try again.
                  If a "mechanic" came anywhere near my bike with a device like that, I'd wring his neck.
                  I have no issues bleeding my SF's system just following the normal procedure.
                  79 SF Special W/ Stock all original motor @ 384,000klms
                  Stock exhaust, stock airbox, XJ sump, 78E carbs, Xs1100RH seat, Bosch superhorns, 5/8ths front M/c, braided lines, sintered SBS pads, drilled discs, progressive springs, 8" 50w HID headlight 4300K, 2 x 50w HID spiral driving lights, KONI shocks, Spade fuse box
                  *Touring mode - Plexistar 2 screen, Gearsack rack & bag & saddlebags, homebuilt towbar
                  *"The Keg"- UC torana hubs, XS11 discs, Tokico 4 spot calipers

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Originally posted by Eveready1100 View Post


                    Ok, That answered that question. Maybe you'd be best to start with a good, undamaged set of brake lines and try again.
                    If a "mechanic" came anywhere near my bike with a device like that, I'd wring his neck.
                    I have no issues bleeding my SF's system just following the normal procedure.
                    Ok assuming my hoses are toast ( which I dont think they are as Ive used the clamps many times with no probs ) How come they lever is firm as when I have the hoses clamped down at the callipers but goes limp when removed ?
                    80 SG
                    93 ST1100 Honda
                    66 split screen VW bus

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      You make a valid point. My vote goes toward air leaking past your caliper piston seal.
                      1979 XS1100F
                      2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        I would not swap-out lines, I'd swap-out the caliper seal.
                        1979 XS1100F
                        2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          If you had air leaking past the seal you'd also have fluid, is there?
                          1980 XS1100G "Dolly G" Full Dresser (with a coat of many colors )
                          1979 XS1100SF (stock-euro mods planned)
                          1984 XV700L Virago (to be hot-modded)
                          1983 XJ750MK Midnight Maxim (semi-restored DD)
                          1977 XS650D ( patiently awaiting resto)

                          Sometimes it takes a whole tank of gas before you can think straight.

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Well, prior to re-building them with K&L kits, he had a puddle at the caliper. New M/C, lines, etc.
                            1979 XS1100F
                            2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Another thought, if those are in fact original lines using that pinch tool could break the inner walls of the old lines and have bits of rubber contaminating the system.
                              1980 XS1100G "Dolly G" Full Dresser (with a coat of many colors )
                              1979 XS1100SF (stock-euro mods planned)
                              1984 XV700L Virago (to be hot-modded)
                              1983 XJ750MK Midnight Maxim (semi-restored DD)
                              1977 XS650D ( patiently awaiting resto)

                              Sometimes it takes a whole tank of gas before you can think straight.

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Originally posted by IanDMacDonald View Post
                                You make a valid point. My vote goes toward air leaking past your caliper piston seal.
                                Thats what I was thinking but there dosnt appear to be any fluid loss, are the K&L kits any good, theyre all I could find to fit the Special
                                80 SG
                                93 ST1100 Honda
                                66 split screen VW bus

                                Comment

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