Just fitted a new m/c (front ) new hoses, new copper washers, new bleeders. Bled the brakes and had a good firm lever. After about a week I noticed the fluid level had dropped and there was a small puddle on the ground under the right calliper. Stripped the callipers and re kitted them, put everything back together and tried to bleed it again but with no luck. Now if I clamp off both hoses close to the callipers I have a firm lever which points to air trapped in the callipers, no matter how much I bleed it I cant get results, tried cracking the banjos at the callipers with no luck. Could the new seals be bad ? Seems strange how I had a firm lever with the old seals ( that were leaking )
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Do exactly this and only this: get a plastic turkey syringe (gotta be plastic), and fit a clear piece of tubing on the end. Fit that over the bleeder valve. Push the fluid into the bleeder, slowly, holding tubing firmly onto the bleeder valve. Fluid will flow upto the caliper. Repeat for other side. Guaranteed results!1979 XS1100F
2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.
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When u reverse-bleed them, you push the air through the lines upto the M/C, and it vents to the M/C. Nothing works better.1979 XS1100F
2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.
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Here is a method I use with great success, tried and true. Bleed as normal. Now, when you have a reasonably firm lever, tie the lever pulled back with brakes applied. Leave it tied like that for the night. Come back next day, you may find a nice firm brake.Life is what happens while your planning everything else!
When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.
81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection
Previously owned
93 GSX600F
80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
81 XS1100 Special
81 CB750 C
80 CB750 C
78 XS750
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Originally posted by IanDMacDonald View PostDo exactly this and only this: get a plastic turkey syringe (gotta be plastic), and fit a clear piece of tubing on the end. Fit that over the bleeder valve. Push the fluid into the bleeder, slowly, holding tubing firmly onto the bleeder valve. Fluid will flow upto the caliper. Repeat for other side. Guaranteed results!80 SG
93 ST1100 Honda
66 split screen VW bus
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Umm, doing this with a full M/C will have brake fluid everywhere after the already full M/C overfills . . .1979 XS1100F
2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.
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Originally posted by IanDMacDonald View PostUmm, doing this with a full M/C will have brake fluid everywhere after the already full M/C overfills . . .80 SG
93 ST1100 Honda
66 split screen VW bus
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With all do respect, ur either doing it wrong, or your M/C is buggered.1979 XS1100F
2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.
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Just to be sure, have you bench bled the MC? Meaning, remove the banjo from the MC, pump it with your finger over the hole. Bleed it like a caliper...finger over the hole tightly, squeeze the lever in, quickly release finger and return it pushing tightly, release lever. Repeat until fluid gets pushed out past your finger, watch your eyes, it can get you. Now, have the banjo in place on the line, with both crush washers in place. Quickly remove your finger and put the banjo bolt in and tighten it down.
Now you should get a decent lever pressure to bleed the calipers out with.Life is what happens while your planning everything else!
When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.
81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection
Previously owned
93 GSX600F
80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
81 XS1100 Special
81 CB750 C
80 CB750 C
78 XS750
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M/C is new and air free, if I clamp the hose just after the m/c banjo the lever is rock solid, if I clamp the calliper lines just above the banjos, the lever is solid, its only when clamps are removed that I get a soggy lever which points to air trapped in the callipers eh...I tied the lever back overnight and it is a bit better, still half travel before its firm. Im pretty sure Im doing it right Ian, slowly pushing fluid in tru the bleeder untill the m/c is full, repeat other side, thread tape on bleeder screw so no air gets sucked in thru the threads.80 SG
93 ST1100 Honda
66 split screen VW bus
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Sometimes it helps to tap on the banjos/splitter/caliper with a wrench or small hammer, it can free up stuck air bubbles in the system and let them move on their way up to the resivior air space. Also, air bubbles can get trapped at the m/c banjo if it is sitting slightly higher than the resivior due to handlebar position. My 2¢, HTH.Last edited by bikerphil; 03-12-2014, 04:25 PM.2H7 (79) owned since '89
3H3 owned since '06
"If it ain't broke, modify it"
☮
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Originally posted by bikerphil View PostSometimes it helps to tap on the banjos/splitter/caliper with a wrench or small hammer, it can free up stuck air bubbles in the system and let them move on their way up to the resivior air space. Also, air bubbles can get trapped at the m/c banjo if it is sitting slightly higher than the resivior due to handlebar position. My 2¢, HTH.80 SG
93 ST1100 Honda
66 split screen VW bus
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I got tired of my Special's crappy front brakes so I replaced the m/c with a coffin type Brembo, $125 new. This bike will stop on a dime now.2H7 (79) owned since '89
3H3 owned since '06
"If it ain't broke, modify it"
☮
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Mate, please defineif I clamp the calliper lines just above the banjos, the lever is solid, its only when clamps are removed that I get a soggy lever which points to air trapped in the callipers
Any chance of a photo to show how you are doing this??79 SF Special W/ Stock all original motor @ 384,000klms
Stock exhaust, stock airbox, XJ sump, 78E carbs, Xs1100RH seat, Bosch superhorns, 5/8ths front M/c, braided lines, sintered SBS pads, drilled discs, progressive springs, 8" 50w HID headlight 4300K, 2 x 50w HID spiral driving lights, KONI shocks, Spade fuse box
*Touring mode - Plexistar 2 screen, Gearsack rack & bag & saddlebags, homebuilt towbar
*"The Keg"- UC torana hubs, XS11 discs, Tokico 4 spot calipers
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