What am I missing???

[Eastcoaster]

Nope bottom tee.s on my bench test set up

all other carb are fine just the one carb leaks

[vedgar]

Torque on screws uneven?

try with the bowl screws slightly loose as you say no leaks like that. Tighten evenly and lightly until the carb does or does not leak. This is the litmus test, I believe the float pin sticks when tightened.
Vance

[Eastcoaster]

Thinking I should switch every single component from a good working carb and see what happens screws and all. I cant imagine a bad carb body but I guess stranger things. I just hate messing with a carb that works fine fear I will have two problems. I just don't know what to do I have switched most parts already It seals fine with the bowl loose.

[rdmcguy]

A shot in the dark

Don't know if this has any value but,
Maybe double up the bowl gasket?

[vedgar]

eastcoaster

did you try my suggestion?

[Eastcoaster]

tried that I can go all day on loose screws and tighten up no leaks as soon as I drain and refill Leaks I have tapped on it many times will still Leak if I do it
I tried double gasket leaks
Pin is clean and smooth
I just don't know

[skids]

tried that I can go all day on loose screws and tighten up no leaks as soon as I drain and refill Leaks I have tapped on it many times will still Leak if I do it
I tried double gasket leaks
Pin is clean and smooth
I just don't know

A clean an smooth pin (float valve pin) has nothing to do with it sticking. Get the float pin and squeeze the ends to check for pin spring action. Some of these gaskets do not have all of the holes punched where required...make sure that the holes are punched. Leaking carbs could be due to:

1. Older carbs having plugged breather hose (leaks while running).
2. Sinking float due to leakage in a float bulb (any year but most common on brass floats I think).
3. Corrosion on pivit pin causing a sticking float action.
4. Float valve needle sticking due to its lach of spring action.
5. Imperfect seal in fuel valve between float needle and its seat.
6. Leakage at the oring at the float valve retainer (newer carb) or the fiber washer (older carbs).
7. Crack in carb body (probably very rare).
8. Floats set way too high.
9. Non OEM floats or fuel valve causing non-functional action.
10. Gasket interferring with float action where floats are rubbing.
11. Older carbs where the fiber gasket is too thin causing too much adjustment with the metal tyne of the float...you may need two fiber washers to compensate instead.
12. Floats too wide for float bowl (I think someone before one this forum said this was possible)

I am sure there are more possibilities, but these are a few things that come to mind. I hope it helps.

There is another possibility for over rich conditions:
1. At speed...that pressed-in air jet is pretty small and if plugged can cause mains to suck in more fuel than designed (air bleed).
2. Idle to 3000 or more rpms, the pilot air jet circuit bleeds air to the pilot jets.

[BA80]

There are evil demons in the #3 carb. I think #3 is the ONLY one I've had issues with on any rack of carbs.

I would change out the body, it sounds like some sort of weird stress warpage going on. Maybe a ripple in the time space continuum.

I had a frozen pilot jet in the #3 carb of The Green Hornet(79 Special) but I had no extra #3 bodies for obvious reasons. I made a #3 out of a #1. After swapping all the butterflies and linkage the only extra issue I had was drilling and tapping a hole for the idle adjusting screw.

Never had another problem. I guess the demons stayed with the #3 body.

[LoHo]

Yeah, my problems have all been with #3 as well...perhaps an unlucky number in Japan or something.

Knowing that all four carbs have to be on spot before she runs well, I think I might back up a bit and see if I can solve the issue. I'd lay out a clean sheet of paper on my bench and take all four carbs apart in little piles. I'd look over the pieces to see if there are any stray bits I didn't figure on. Look the floats over to see if they all look the same. Then, put them all back together and see if I have the same issue.

And, FWIW, I took the little wire keepers off the needles and solved my stuck needle overflow problem.

[Eastcoaster]

I finally got it!

After many hours and swapping every single part more than once. Hours on exact float settings with no change every gasket every float seat and gasket no change.

It had to be the carb body. Or some sort of air bubble? I don't know how they vent but I thought could it be blocked? I really did not think a vent? I would assume their are more than one, I blew and cleaned again every port possible

But what I think may have done it I polished the inside of the posts thinking a microscopic burr holding the float I have never used these carbs and do not know the history.

What I am kicking myself in the butt is not doing each separately to know the exact fix.
But I guess that's one of the XS1100 mysteries if we knew them all what would we do for fun? 2 hours on the test no leaks! drained and refilled 5 times

[Schming]

Congrats EastCoaster - Well Done !!!

[DGXSER]

The thrill of victory is yours!!

[CaptonZap]

And the disappointment of not knowing the cause is ours.

CZ

[vedgar]

now I can sleep

Congrats, you are to be commended for being a stubborn SOB.

[BA80]

And the disappointment of not knowing the cause is ours.

CZ

I can't tell you how many times I've experienced that. I have had that same experience with these damn carbs.