Dyna Bracket Installation Hardware

[IanDMacDonald]

Just in-case Mr. Pat Kelly does get to my PM, I was wondering the specifics regarding the angle brackets and bolts. I think I saw 1/4" x 1/4"? I presume I'd need four of those, and two bolts? On the bolts, what kind of washers? And, can I hope that Ace will have the brackets?

[TopCatGr58]

Hey there Ian,

Pat is an over the road trucker now, and he doesn't get much free time when he gets home, so it could be a while before you get a reply.

You might want to check out this tech tip... it's the copy of the one that's in the FORUM section, but it's in the DROP DOWN MENU tech tips:

http://www.xs11.com/xs11-info/tech-t...l-upgrade.html

It still has the pictures with it, the Forum version lost it's pictures when I changed ISP's a little while back and I was hosting them on my personal web pages storage space linked with my ISP account.

The L brackets are essentially basic ones you can find at LOWES and such, and you can determine how long the bolts need to be from the size of the section of the COIL that the bolt will go thru, the thickness of the bracket, and allowance for flat and lock washers, and the nut! HTH!

T.C.

[Schming]

Hi Ian, check out this thread: http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...27014&page=100 starting with post #1489 to see my install of Dyna coils on my '80G.

HTH

[IanDMacDonald]

Thanks fellas.

[James England]

Here's some pix of the Dynas I put on mine...

[jetmechmarty]

joker Machine makes a bracket for aftermarket coils on the XS650. I expect they would be a direct fit on the XS1100. It's a durable setup and nice bling. It's definitely not for the cheapazz among us.






Are these a direct fit, or am I mistaken? Stock XS650 coils look the same to me as the XS1100 coil.

[James England]

The Dynas, apart from the minis, are the same physical dimensions, I think. It's the ohm rating that differs between the colours of coil.

Those brackets are nice and I'd give an 100% round of applause if they were visible normally and buy them without a doubt. As it is though, they aren't visible and it really is possible to do a good, solid job, with securely mounted coils, for about $5. Four L brackets from a hardware store

[IanDMacDonald]

Thanks for the posts James & Marty. Pat actually messaged me instantly, and helped me out.

[IanDMacDonald]

I'm wondering if those brackets would even work due to the frames being different between the 650/1100. We have the gas tank rubber in the way.

[jetmechmarty]

I'm wondering if those brackets would even work due to the frames being different between the 650/1100. We have the gas tank rubber in the way.

I'll take some photos later today. The XS650 has the rubber pucks too. They're on the tank. In my first photo, you can see the bottom of the cup in the top right corner. Cups on frame, pucks on tank, for XS650.

[crazy steve]

Pat's tip is here: http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4868

He used the 1.5 ohm Dyna coils (retaining the ballast resistor), but the mounting is the same....

[IanDMacDonald]

Let me just say WOWSERS!!!! Okay, I installed the Dyna coils and wires today. If I were to do it all over again, there are some lessons I definitely learned today that I would like to pass-on to other's wishing to do this mod.

First-off, the actual details of the hardware needed for this mod:

- (4) 1" angle brackets. Everyone sells them. If you goto Home Depot/Lowe's/Ace, they will be in the aisle with the cabinet handles, etc. They're sold in 1/2", 1". 1 1/2", etc. I originally bought the 1" from Ace, got them attached to the coils and took them home to test-fit them to see what length screw I needed to go in-between them. Well, Ace's Winter hours closes the store at 7p, so I gave them everything back and went to Home Depot. This was by far my worst experience EVER at Home Depot. Everything is in a baggy when it comes to the right screw you need. I could not for the life of me find a 10-32 flat washer/lock washer/nut for the project. It took 20 minutes for them to send someone my way, while three "door greeters" just watched me get frustrated. She was absolutely no help, so I went across the street to Lowe's. The employee was very sympathetic and helped me the whole way to find me exactly what I needed.

-(4) 1" 10-32 pan head screws. You'll need four of these, one for each post to hold the angle bracket to the coil.

-10-32 flat washers. You can use as many as you want.
-10-32 lock washers. " "
-(2) 2" 10-32 pan head screws. These will be used to combine the two coils through the frame. Note: The divider metal on the frame is 1 1/2" wide.

First thing to do is drill a hole in each angle bracket directly below the hole already there as shown in Pat's install. This hole will be the one utilized for combining the two coils with the 2" screw. If you tried to use the other hole as I did, you'll find that the coils hit the inside of the frame's gas tank metal whatever it is. So, you MUST drill this hole.

Second thing to do, install your pigtails on your coils first. You don't have to connect them to the harness just yet. The reason being is if you have your coils on the brackets, you will have a hard time getting your fingers in the tight spaces of the area afforded to you to get the tiny straight-tip screws in. I dropped one and have no idea where it went. I am blessed to have extra screws around that fit.

Third thing, if you have a standard, remove the ballast resistor as well as the horn. Get it out of the way. Connect the two ballast resistor wires together and tuck them away.

Step four will be to install your brackets through the frame mounts. The brackets are going to hang from the bottom hole that you drilled, so the "shelf" of the bracket will be directly below the screw, not above. I found that using 2" screws, the only thing you could get on the screw after the angle brackets was a lock washer. That worked-out fine for me.

Step five would be to install your coils on-top of the brackets you installed. What I mean by "on-top" is that the coils should not be below the brackets. They should rest on the brackets. Screw, washer, coil, washer, lock washer, and nut is how I did it. All four posts.

Step six would be to install your plug wires. The left coil is cylinder 1 & 4, the right is 2 & 3.

Step seven you can plug-in your pig tails. If you did this right, your red/white wire pigtails should have male bullets going into the double female bullet connector, and your other two wires should be female bullets, one for the gray, the other for the orange. One thing Pat noted was to make sure you know what wire goes to what coil. I noted that the gray wire goes to the right coil feeding cylinders 2 & 3, and the orange wire goes to the left coil, feeding cylinders 1 & 4.

Step eight you can re-install your horn. I did not think it would fit, but it did.

A few things to note, as far as I know either wire can
be mounted on either terminal of the coils as they have no polarity. The same goes for the plug wires. There is no distinction for what cylinder is what on the coils, as long as you follow the 1 & 4/2 & 3.

[James England]

Job well done then. I presume you've noticed a performance difference? I read somewhere that Dyna coils should never be fired with the HT caps not grounded as there is a possibility of damaging them. I had my plugs out and three of them were grounded against the head. The fourth was in my gloved hand and I didn't realise it wasn't grounded on the head. When I hit the starter button, I got a belt through my gloved hand, and the other gloved hand on the starter button and also my foot, which was in a boot. I'm surprised I didn't have a cardiac arrest! One hell of a belt and something I'd never experience with the OEM coils....

[IanDMacDonald]

Oh, I'm about a month or two away from ever hitting the start button on the bike again. As soon as my tax refund comes qnd my shopping list is complete

[Schming]

Good write up Ian, Step 5 is what I didn't do, as I only had the small brackets:

Note to self, get 1" brackets X2, for the '80G and '79 SF

Thanxs