Head on Valve seals

[Eastcoaster]

Been putting off valve seal replacement on my xs1100E. It's at the point now I have to put rags on the floor after using due to the exhaust drip. It smokes on start up then fine all day. I saw a u tube video with a guy not removing the head. Filled cylinder with rope and used a tool called valve keeper 36050 by Lise. Has anyone ever tried this? Will it work?

[Old Red]

I have done this on many car engines, but I think on the XS’s engine it would be easier to pull the head. Can it be done, yes if you can find a good tool to put the valve springs back on.

The Other Earl

[IanDMacDonald]

I've seen some crazy methods from removing valve shims (zip-tie method), to changing valve seals (rope). My recommendation is to save the headache and pull the head. PITA to undo all of those valve cover bolts, but still only an hour job to remove exhaust, valve cover, ACCT, head bolts, and cams. Now, putting the original exhaust back-on by yourself in less than an hour is another story, lol.

[skids]

The toughest thing for me is ketting the valve keeper back in place. Hey, you may as well do a mild valve lap while you're at it.

[IanDMacDonald]

Lol, to show my ignorance, I did not know that the valve keepers were two-piece. When I pulled my valves using a c-clamp, the spring.popped and shot the keepers clear across the basement. Fortunately I found them, and was shocked I broke them in-half. Next valve, broke that keeper in-half too. I gained some sense when I pulled the third one and realized they were two-piece collets

[James England]

I did my GL1000 without removing either head. I used a valve spring compressor which has two fine jaws on it, like a two legged puller, and they hook into the valve spring. On the GL, valves dropping down isn't really a problem as it's a flat four. However, I've seen the thick string method on YouTube and it works on cars. A better way is to use an old spark plug with the ceramic and electrode removed and threaded to take an airline.... Pumping compressed air in keeps the valves shut.

I always use a small telescopic magnet to remove the valve retaining collets and also to put them back in position. They are not something you want falling down the cam chain tunnel.....


Here is the one I used....http://http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/121097522799?hlpht=true&ops=true&viphx=1&lpid=95&d evice=t&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0&ff1 2=67&ff13=80&ff14=95

[DGXSER]

Considering the tube those valve springs sit down inside of, I honestly find it hard to believe that tool would work with any consistency. Just my opinion.

[Dan Hodges]

Replacing Valve Seals

Pull the head and do it the correct way and while you are at it you can shim the valve springs .040, clean the crud off the back of the valves, clean the valve bowls and ports and lap the valves per the shop manual and of course install new OEM viton valve stem seals.

I suggest that you either read the section of the shop manual that explains this operation or get the information from this forum as the information has been covered here before because although the job isn't complicated it's not a crime against nature too look and study before one operates on an XS.

Of course you might need a new head gasket however this simple maintenance routine will add some lost zip to an old XS.

The stock Yamaha graphite head gasket is best and won't leak but is very pricey while the CFM gasket made by Cometic cost half as much but will eventually leak/weap oil. You get what you pay for.

Good luck.

[James England]

Considering the tube those valve springs sit down inside of, I honestly find it hard to believe that tool would work with any consistency. Just my opinion.

What tube? You mean how the springs sit in the head? The compressor doesn't use a tube ...

As I said though...it worked fine on my GL1000..just hook the jaws on the bottom spring coil and push the handle thing down. I did my valve stem seals in less than half an hour.

[James England]

Pull the head and do it the correct way .

It's not an 'incorrect' way, if it's possible to replace valve stem seals without taking the head off. I was certainly pleased not to have to take two cylinder heads off a water-cooled bike, just to do it the "correct way"!

[DGXSER]

James, on the XS, which I know you are familiar with, the valve is under the bucket which is down in a "tube" in the head. Pull the bucket out, and now you are looking down in close quarters at the spring and retainers. Which is why I do not think that tool will fit in there.

Now, as to the Correct way to do it. Well, I would say it is similar to splitting the cases to work on the gears, now that I have done so. It definitely took a little more time to remove all the components to be ready to split the cases. However, knowing how much time I have spent trying to get the gears back into the bike, and never before with the kick-start gear in there, I would say I have saved time splitting the cases. Now I did have the engine pulled out anyway.

For the head and valve seals. I can seriously see how you could waste more time figuring out how to avoid pulling the head than you would spend pulling it and doing the job.

[IanDMacDonald]

When I bent my valves, I never turned a bolt on that bike the whole Winter, as I had no clue regarding head removal. As soon as the guys on here gave me the confidence, I had my cylinder head off in an hour.

[Orange4]

Dan Hodges: Pull the head and do it the correct way and while you are at it you can shim the valve springs .040, clean the crud off the back of the valves, clean the valve bowls and ports and lap the valves per the shop manual and of course install new OEM viton valve stem seals.

Another pearl of wisdom from Dan. My springs were within spec. but a bit compressed. I guess 35 years of squish will do that to you. Where does one find the correct shims without resorting to dealer pricing?

[James England]

Considering the tube those valve springs sit down inside of, I honestly find it hard to believe that tool would work with any consistency. Just my opinion.

James, on the XS, which I know you are familiar with, the valve is under the bucket which is down in a "tube" in the head. Pull the bucket out, and now you are looking down in close quarters at the spring and retainers. Which is why I do not think that tool will fit in there.

Now, as to the Correct way to do it. Well, I would say it is similar to splitting the cases to work on the gears, now that I have done so. It definitely took a little more time to remove all the components to be ready to split the cases. However, knowing how much time I have spent trying to get the gears back into the bike, and never before with the kick-start gear in there, I would say I have saved time splitting the cases. Now I did have the engine pulled out anyway.

For the head and valve seals. I can seriously see how you could waste more time figuring out how to avoid pulling the head than you would spend pulling it and doing the job.

Of course! you are entirely correct. I'm losing my faculties....yes, the springs are down a 'tube'...no way that valve tool would work! What was I thinking of?!?!

[DGXSER]

Another pearl of wisdom from Dan. My springs were within spec. but a bit compressed. I guess 35 years of squish will do that to you. Where does one find the correct shims without resorting to dealer pricing?

I have found an Independent shop that would swap them for $2 a shim. Also keep in mind that I believe the Ford Taurus and another car brand that escapes me now, also use the 29mm shims. It may be they find them less rare and valuable since they are for cars and not bikes.

Of course! you are entirely correct. I'm losing my faculties....yes, the springs are down a 'tube'...no way that valve tool would work! What was I thinking of?!?!

A GL1000 James. See what happens when you join the FOXS group?