shift fork shaft shafting me

[trbig]

And splitting the cases, over all is not that difficult. I am hoping the seals on the crank line up well when I reassemble. It is impossible to see behind the rotor.

Pull the rotor and spend $5 a piece and replace the 30+ year old seals. BUT.. I guess that's something you can do later if it does leak.

[DGXSER]

Ok may seem like an elementary question, however I decided to practice what I preach. Ask before I do it wrong. When applying Yamabond, do you use a paint brush to smooth it out? How thick do you apply it?

[bikerphil]

The last time I split the case, I used Yamabond 4 and put it on with my finger just like RTV would be applied. Just be careful of those areas near the crankshaft, not too thick there. If too much was use it would run down the side and internally the oil should not affect it so no worry of plugging up oil gally(s). I can see why you would want to use a brush though, sharp case edges!

[trbig]

Ok may seem like an elementary question, however I decided to practice what I preach. Ask before I do it wrong. When applying Yamabond, do you use a paint brush to smooth it out? How thick do you apply it?

I just kind of smear it around using the tube. Both it and the Tribond stuff flows really well and flattens out on its own. Gotta be fairly quick though, the stuff starts to skin over and dry pretty fast. And as stated, leave a gap by the crank bearings, but make sure and get around the bolt holes like this...

[DGXSER]

OK, I will probably try a dry fit or two first to get used to setting the shift fork on the main shaft gear, and getting the crank seals in the correct spots.

Sounds like a finger will do the trick though. I have enough cuts already, a few more will not matter. I see from Tod's pic application to the lower case half perhaps the smartest way to do it.

[trbig]

I've tried using my finger before, but I just ended up making a mess. When you stick your finger to it, then pull it away, you get fine spiderweb-like strands going everywhere. I just put the tube opening onto the case and as I lightly squeeze, just kind of use the tube like a big pen. It flows out level.

When you go to set the bottom shell to the top one, if it doesn't want to quite seat, wiggle the gears just a touch and it should drop right together.

[DGXSER]

Thanks for the tips guys! Hopefully I make it home tonight in time to get the garage warm enough with my little heater to be able to work in there. With the current and planned temps, I doubt the Yamabond will flow at all.

[DGXSER]

So I learned something today, the rotor needs to come off for the case halves to go together happily. There is a "nose" piece that gets surrounded by the rotor on the case halves at that end. It is a close fit. I am not certain how I convinced it to come off without pulling the rotor off. But I am now certain I will need to pull the rotor to get them back together. Or spend even longer getting the case halves together than I would have spent convincing the gear shaft to go back in place.

Now to find the info on the bolt to pull the rotor with.

[XS11UFO]

Dude! You gave me the answer to the same rotor question back in November when I did the exact same thing, here:

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40997&page=5

DGXSER said : "The bolt is a 16mm X 1.5 thread. The "Tool" is listed with those threads, I was not sure if the end was anything special or not."

Nothing special about the end but grease the bolt, I had a breaker bar with cheater on it, it was tight! When it lets go it isn't subtle, the "BANG" scared the hell out of me. Holding the crank / case half was a pain.

Mines back in but I've been sidetracked a few times, almost done and only 2 months - oh well.

[DGXSER]

Yeah, I looked it up then also, and I did look it up last night to. Now to find the time to hit a hardware store to make the purchase.

[DGXSER]

Anyone find a local source for that M16 1.5 pitch bolt? Every place I have tried only carries 2.o pitch. I know I can get it online, just seeing if there is a source locally I made not have thought to look.

[bikerphil]

Go to a 'bolt supplier' in your area, they should have it. Regular hardware store won't. FWIW, I got mine back together without removing the rotor, took a little 'persuading'.

[DGXSER]

So I tried every bolt, hardware, store and supplier in Cincinnati, no one has any M16 fine thread bolts. Maybe I should look into steel rod and a die.

Guess I either beat it into submission, or wait for internet delivery.

[XS11UFO]

The nearest large town to me is Palatka, Fl - population 10,000. I tried Ace Hardware, Home Depot, Lowes, all with no luck. My last local possibility was closed on the weekend - Palatka Bolt & Screw and they had it. I can't believe I found it but there should be one in Cincinnati.

[DGXSER]

I would have thought so to. But I tried my local hardware store, Fastenal, and every bolt supplier I could find or that the ones I called could think of. I noticed in another thread Ras found one at a John Deer shop. So I will give that a shot.