I recently removed the rear wheel to replace the bearings. While removing the wheel I noticed that the rear brake rotor was not aligned in the caliper and was rubbing on the caliper bracket. Viewing the bike from the rear the rotor is rubbing on the right. I am slowly going thru this bike and repairing all the "mods" performed by the previous owner so this is just another "surprise". Has anyone else had this issue or have any idea why this could be happening. Any suggestions on how to resolve it would be greatly appreciated.
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Rear rotor alignment
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The most likely suspect is that someone swapped the rear wheels without swapping all of the spacers and brake brace with it.
The Special models have a 16" rear wheel stock and a one spacer built into the bearing dust cap. The brace that holds the rear caliper and its bracket in place is unique between the Standard and Special models as well.
On the Standard models, a 17" rear wheel is stock. You will also fin the bearing dust cap, the rear brake caliper bracket and brace, and then another spacer.
If you have a 17" rear wheel with out the added spacer, or the 16" rear wheel with the added spacer, that could cause the misalignment. It could also be more subtle like the wrong rear brake brace. Again, this is the most likely reason for the misalignment. Or you have the Standard setup and got the spacer in the wrong location.Life is what happens while your planning everything else!
When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.
81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection
Previously owned
93 GSX600F
80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
81 XS1100 Special
81 CB750 C
80 CB750 C
78 XS750
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If you're not too fussy about originality just add an extra washer which ever side of brake bracket you need to move over the brake bracket in line with the rotor.
The caliper will move over in line itself, as you say its the caliper bracket that needs to move over.Tom
1982 5K7 Sport, restored to original from a wreck
1978 2H9 (E), my original XS11, mostly original
1980 2H9 monoshocked (avatar pic)http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...psf30aa1c8.jpg
1982 XJ1100, waiting resto to original
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You want to be careful about adding washers to move stuff; depending on your combination, you may have to tweak the swingarm and that can make the axle very hard to remove/install.
Here's the parts needed...
Special/16" wheel on the left, standard/17" on the right. Sorry for the crummy pic...
The dust cover/spacer for the special is .3" thicker than the standard spacer, the caliper bracket is different, and the standard has the outer spacer, missing on the Special. The latter spacer is about 1/2" thick.Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two
'78E original owner - resto project
'78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
'82 XJ rebuild project
'80SG restified, red SOLD
'79F parts...
'81H more parts...
Other current bikes:
'93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
'86 XL883/1200 Chopper
'82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...
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Originally posted by crazy steve View PostYou want to be careful about adding washers to move stuff; depending on your combination, you may have to tweak the swingarm and that can make the axle very hard to remove/install.
Don't get me wrong Steve, I totally agree that the right way is with the correct wheel+spacers combination.
I use 16 and 17 inch wheels in the same bike depending on which wheel has a good tyre and keep the correct spacers zip tied to each wheel for when I change.
But in the end it comes down to getting the caliper bracket in line over the rotor without the rotor touching either side, if you havn't got all the OE spacers this can be done easily with washers without wheel alignment issues.Tom
1982 5K7 Sport, restored to original from a wreck
1978 2H9 (E), my original XS11, mostly original
1980 2H9 monoshocked (avatar pic)http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...psf30aa1c8.jpg
1982 XJ1100, waiting resto to original
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Rotor Alignment
Thanks for all the information guys. Like I said before I have been going thru this bike and correcting all the surprises from the previous owner. At this point I am not concerned with originality, mainly safe and functional riding. I have no doubt that the wheels have been changed. It never occurred to me that he would have done such a crappy job, especially on the brake. I am going to start looking for an appropriate washer to get things lined up. Thanks again for all the information.80 XS11 1196 Wiseco kit, balanced crank,
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Originally posted by Punisher View PostThanks for all the information guys. Like I said before I have been going thru this bike and correcting all the surprises from the previous owner. At this point I am not concerned with originality, mainly safe and functional riding. I have no doubt that the wheels have been changed. It never occurred to me that he would have done such a crappy job, especially on the brake. I am going to start looking for an appropriate washer to get things lined up. Thanks again for all the information.Nathan
KD9ARL
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1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
Theodore Roosevelt
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Originally posted by Punisher View Post. . . I am going to start looking for an appropriate washer to get things lined up. Thanks again for all the information.
http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=385231980 XS1100G "Dolly G" Full Dresser (with a coat of many colors )
1979 XS1100SF (stock-euro mods planned)
1984 XV700L Virago (to be hot-modded)
1983 XJ750MK Midnight Maxim (semi-restored DD)
1977 XS650D ( patiently awaiting resto)
Sometimes it takes a whole tank of gas before you can think straight.
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