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Pilot screw broken .....drill sizes

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  • Pilot screw broken .....drill sizes

    I have 3 of 4 carbs with the tip of the air/fuel/idle adjustment screw broken off in the carb body...I have searched the forums for ways to get them out...I have tried most methods..freezing, heating, needles, picks, everything that sounded possible...
    I decided to try and drill them out..* *A 1.5mm drill was smaller than the hole in the 'good' carby.* Used a pin vice and drilled through and brass tip is gone!* *Now I think the drill bit was to big and the 'good' carby had already been drilled before.

    So...does anyone know what the size is of the passage where it meets the carbys throat?

    Anyone cut a carby in half to show a 'section' where the tip sits normally? or a drawing with measurements

    This fantastic guide....* * * http://www.xj4ever.com/inside%20your%20carbs.pdf * * .....shows on page 19 and 20 the pilot screw tip where it meets the carbys throat.....This is the hole I would like to know the size of.

    The BS34 carb is very similar to these pics* *
    Thanks for any help
    81 RH

  • #2
    If I had a gauge pin to slip down in the hole I could tell you very easilly because I have by carbs out and on the bench... unfortunately I dont have any pins.

    Even if you knew the correct size of the hole the needle seats against, how would it make a difference? Cant exactly add material very easily to the ones that are already messed up...

    If you can wait a little while I will be offering new idle screws for sale...
    Last edited by WMarshy; 01-06-2014, 05:44 PM.
    '79 XS11 F
    Stock except K&N

    '79 XS11 SF
    Stock, no title.

    '84 Chevy K-10 "Big Blue"
    GM 350, Muncie SM465, NP208, GM 10 Bolt with 3.42gears turnin 31x10.5 Baja Claws

    "What they do have is an implacable, unrelenting presence and movement that bespeaks massive power lurking behind paint and chrome. They don't wail like a screeching ninja, the don't rumble like a harley. They just growl like a spactic, stressed out badger waiting to rip your face off and eat your soul." Trainzz~RIP~

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    • #3
      Pretty much any time you have to remove a broken tip the orifice will be a little larger. The screws are adjustable, any difference can be adjusted out if you properly adjust the idle screws.

      That's exactly why I think counting turns is a lousy way to adjust them other than a base to start with. Unless you have brand new carb bodies, and even then, no two carbs are EXACTLY alike.

      I've removed broken tips from all my carbs and my bikes have run great with proper adjustment.

      The pin vise drill works best for me. I gauged the bit on a carb that didn't have a broken tip in it by fitting the bit in there.
      Last edited by BA80; 01-06-2014, 05:55 PM.
      Greg

      Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

      ― Albert Einstein

      80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

      The list changes.

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      • #4
        I had 2 broken off needles, and worked like a dog to try different ways. In the end, I took a common push pin used for bulletin boards( they come in all colors), and used pliers to squeeze it to press out the broken needle. I will try to post a pic of the type of pin I used.
        79 F
        Previously owned: (among others)
        1969 Harley- Davidson Rapido 125 (Aermacchi)
        1967 Suzuki X6 Hustler
        1973 Suzuki TM 125
        1979 XS1100 F
        2005 Kaw. Vulcan VN800
        1991 BMW K75

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        • #5
          link to pic:

          http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Push_pins.jpg
          79 F
          Previously owned: (among others)
          1969 Harley- Davidson Rapido 125 (Aermacchi)
          1967 Suzuki X6 Hustler
          1973 Suzuki TM 125
          1979 XS1100 F
          2005 Kaw. Vulcan VN800
          1991 BMW K75

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          • #6
            That hole is smaller than a #60 drill, my guess would be more like 1/32" (67-68). I agree with others, if the hole is larger, it will still be tunable, just a bit more sensitive. I'm running a few drilled at 1/16" and I had to shorten the spring slightly. The mixture tip can also be filed to a different taper if need be. GL
            2H7 (79) owned since '89
            3H3 owned since '06

            "If it ain't broke, modify it"

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Steveh View Post
              - - - I decided to try and drill them out..* *A 1.5mm drill was smaller than the hole in the 'good' carby.* Used a pin vice and drilled through and brass tip is gone!* *Now I think the drill bit was to big and the 'good' carby had already been drilled before. - - -
              Hi Steveh,
              I read that the hole should be 1mm. The smallest drill bit that my drillpress chuck will grip is 1/16" (1.58mm) so that's what I used.
              What's just as important as the drill size is re-drilling it dead centre.
              I set my carb body up on the drillpress work platform and used a countersink bit to centre the chuck on the needle bore before re-drilling the hole.
              Carb seemed to work OK with a new needle though it had to be turned in a lot further.
              BTW, that's a very helpful link, thanks for posting it.
              Last edited by fredintoon; 01-08-2014, 11:40 PM.
              Fred Hill, S'toon
              XS11SG with Spirit of America sidecar
              "The Flying Pumpkin"

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