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Starter stuck on!!! CURSE YOU EXCELSIOR

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  • #16
    If the cover does wear out, just get another one, they are a dime a dozen.
    2H7 (79) owned since '89
    3H3 owned since '06

    "If it ain't broke, modify it"

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    • #17
      anyone ever opened up the round style starter solenoid? I was going to open mine, but that is some strong metal and I doubt I could get it back together correctly. Mine has been working, but I thought I would clean it since we have 4-9" of snow on the way and I will not be riding for a while.
      Life is what happens while your planning everything else!

      When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.

      81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
      80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection


      Previously owned
      93 GSX600F
      80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
      81 XS1100 Special
      81 CB750 C
      80 CB750 C
      78 XS750

      Comment


      • #18
        James- Do you know if the internals of the kick starter on the 11 is the same as the 750/850? One of my 750's had a dead starter, and I used the kick starter for a year. Reliable darn thing it was. I've thought about transfering the folding lever over for shiggles.
        1979 XS1100F
        2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

        Comment


        • #19
          Originally posted by James England View Post
          Problem is, there's no bush or bearing in the clutch cover for the kickstarter. It's not meant for regular use as it's a steel shaft in relatively soft casing alloy (and not much of it, at that). I remember reading a thread here about modifying the casing in order to put a bush in there but drilling it out to take a bush leaves very little metal inside the casing to support the shaft. I don't think regular use of the kickstarter is advisable..... Correct me someone, if I'm wrong...
          James, I don't want to correct you, but I will give you my take on the situation.
          If you look at the boss that the shaft rides in, you will notice that it is braced with cast webs, which transmit the forces engendered by the kick starter operation out to the skin of the cover. Which is stout enough to not deform, unless you weight 75 stones.
          Aluminum against a steel shaft is a very good bearing combination, IF, the shaft is smooth and clean, the aluminum is smooth and clean, and there is oil present between the two.
          That is the crux of the problem.
          Since the only way that oil can get in there is by seeping in after being flung up there by the clutch pack, there is a possibility that it is not well oiled when you go to kick start.
          And a worn seal will admit grimey grit into the outside of the bearing, which is where the major bearing load is applied. Which will grind the bore out to an oval. Bad ju-ju.
          Here is my fix.
          On the forward top side of the boss, about the 11 o-clock position, looking at it from the inside of the cover, I drilled a 3/32 inch hole aimed down and toward the outer edge of the bearing bore, so that it comes out just inside the seal in the cover, and on the top of the bore.
          Then a chamfer, (counter sink) around the 3/32 hole, where it goes in at the top, to provide a basin for oil to accumulate, lets the oil drain down into the shaft/bore combination. That assures that very time the engine runs, oil is introduced to the bearing.
          Now, I have to admit that I don't kick start it much, (once or twice to get the feel of the thing), I have no qualms about doing so, knowing that the bearing is oiled.

          CZ

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          • #20
            CZ- You guys never fail to amaze me with the mods you do that are not in the Mod section. Who woulda thought of something like this. Crazy genius as the Vonage commercial goes.
            1979 XS1100F
            2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

            Comment


            • #21
              much to do about nothing.

              Honestly, how many folks have experienced this egg shaping of the kick start opening? How many use the kick start on a regular basis except as a hold over till they repair the starter circuit or system?

              What I am getting at is that it seems to be an assumed problem from over analyzing the issue. Not to slam CZ for his creativity, but hardly a mod I would suggest every XS owner take the trouble to implement. In fact it is more likely to be cause of oil seepage from the seal than it is to prevent wear to the cover. Primarily because once your friends and the local ladies have been impressed by your ability to kick start it, your highly likely to use that button at your right thumb. . So again, the kick start will only the minimal use it was designed for.
              Life is what happens while your planning everything else!

              When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.

              81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
              80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection


              Previously owned
              93 GSX600F
              80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
              81 XS1100 Special
              81 CB750 C
              80 CB750 C
              78 XS750

              Comment


              • #22
                Randy used the kick start on the Swamp Thing for a long time because of a starter clutch problem. I don't think he ever had an issue.
                Greg

                Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

                ― Albert Einstein

                80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

                The list changes.

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                • #23
                  3 years to be exact, the last year constantly till I got an NOS starter clutch and installed that. No problems.
                  Former owner, but I have NO PARTS LEFT!

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Originally posted by IanDMacDonald View Post
                    Lol, so the kickstart is not just there for show? I tried kicking mine over the other day on a cold engine. No joy. Electric start it was.
                    And that is why log ago I started my quest to obtain all necessary parts to install into my "brutus". You can never be to careful
                    BAMN!

                    '81 XS1100H "Brutus"

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Originally posted by CaptonZap View Post
                      James, I don't want to correct you, but I will give you my take on the situation.
                      If you look at the boss that the shaft rides in, you will notice that it is braced with cast webs, which transmit the forces engendered by the kick starter operation out to the skin of the cover. Which is stout enough to not deform, unless you weight 75 stones.
                      Aluminum against a steel shaft is a very good bearing combination, IF, the shaft is smooth and clean, the aluminum is smooth and clean, and there is oil present between the two.
                      That is the crux of the problem.
                      Since the only way that oil can get in there is by seeping in after being flung up there by the clutch pack, there is a possibility that it is not well oiled when you go to kick start.
                      And a worn seal will admit grimey grit into the outside of the bearing, which is where the major bearing load is applied. Which will grind the bore out to an oval. Bad ju-ju.
                      Here is my fix.
                      On the forward top side of the boss, about the 11 o-clock position, looking at it from the inside of the cover, I drilled a 3/32 inch hole aimed down and toward the outer edge of the bearing bore, so that it comes out just inside the seal in the cover, and on the top of the bore.
                      Then a chamfer, (counter sink) around the 3/32 hole, where it goes in at the top, to provide a basin for oil to accumulate, lets the oil drain down into the shaft/bore combination. That assures that very time the engine runs, oil is introduced to the bearing.
                      Now, I have to admit that I don't kick start it much, (once or twice to get the feel of the thing), I have no qualms about doing so, knowing that the bearing is oiled.

                      CZ
                      I think that's a good idea. Yes, the webbing supports the shaft when in the casing. I'm sure it's strong enough. Just the lube thing, which you appear to have solved.

                      Of course, all of this is only relevant if one intends to use the kickstarter all the time, DGXSER and yes, most people use it only as a stopgap but...if I had a starter clutch problem, I'd use it all the time and I bet others do too. No, I've not seen any egg-shaped holes but I've seen them worn at the bottom and also leaking oil from the seal. Like you say, for normal emergency use, fine. all it meant was it's not ideal as-is for long term use.
                      XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Originally posted by Nubian View Post
                        And that is why log ago I started my quest to obtain all necessary parts to install into my "brutus". You can never be to careful
                        I have all the parts you need. You do realize that on that 81 you'll need to split the cases to get that inner gear in place?
                        Greg

                        Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

                        ― Albert Einstein

                        80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

                        The list changes.

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Originally posted by BA80 View Post
                          I have all the parts you need. You do realize that on that 81 you'll need to split the cases to get that inner gear in place?
                          Yes I do, waiting for starter clutch fix or something similar for it to happen.
                          BAMN!

                          '81 XS1100H "Brutus"

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