Rpms stop at 5k when accelerating under load

[D0wn5h1ft]

Some of us ole geezers here at times just assume basics like clean tank/pecocks/carbs has already been gone thru using some of the tech tips, me included. Seen to find out otherwise later in the saga, which seems more and more the norm.
So, at this point, hopefully your gonna be actually starting from scratch again, going back thru ALL the before mentioned.

That's just the thing. I did do a tank refurb AND rebuilt the petcocks before starting all of this. I think there's something leftover that I missed in the tank. It was rusted really badly when I started and I got it looking decent again. I guess after I flushed it out with gas there was some 'extra stuff' in there that I missed.

[D0wn5h1ft]

Checked the petcocks and they were fine. Got the new spark plugs and gapped them larger for the dynatek coils. Ran it with the slip-ons on and it ran better but still not good and the plugs were sooty black after doing a plug chop.

Decided to give up on the exhaust because I can't afford a whole new one. Ended up going with some straight pipes and it runs great; actually broke the rear tire free today in second gear

Not sure what it is about that cursed exhaust but this is the third bike it's been on and it's the third bike that has ran like crap with it.

[D0wn5h1ft]

Sorry to dig this one up but the solution hit me like a ton of bricks today. Went out to check the timing and the adjustable portion (with the slots) was almost all the way back! (all the way retarded). Advanced it appropriately and now performance is better across the board. Starts better and climbs better. NOW I'm going to have to rejet appropriately (maybe).

As an added note, what made me think of this was my HORRIBLE gas mileage I was getting yesterday. Went through half a tank in 30 miles!

[motoman]

Sorry to dig this one up but the solution hit me like a ton of bricks today. Went out to check the timing and the adjustable portion (with the slots) was almost all the way back! (all the way retarded). Advanced it appropriately and now performance is better across the board. Starts better and climbs better. NOW I'm going to have to rejet appropriately (maybe).

As an added note, what made me think of this was my HORRIBLE gas mileage I was getting yesterday. Went through half a tank in 30 miles!

Actually your gonna have to sync them, or +1 what Rasputin stated in post #87. Will make it easier to diagnose overall.

[D0wn5h1ft]

Actually your gonna have to sync them, or +1 what Rasputin stated in post #87. Will make it easier to diagnose overall.

That's the next step. IanMac has a set of sync gauges he said he'd be willing to let me borrow. First, though, I have to get these vacuum leaks under control. I ended up buying a whole set of butterfly shaft seals and screws from MikesXS a few days ago and that'll have to get done before I sync them.

[IanDMacDonald]

U'll need more than my Carbtune gauges to beat me at the track

[D0wn5h1ft]

U'll need more than my Carbtune gauges to beat me at the track

Let the trash talking begin!

We'll see how lugging all that extra frame and OEM parts down the strip treats you

[vedgar]

You were on the road yesterday ?

I live in Clarkston, MI and have not seen the pavement of my street since mid Dec.

[D0wn5h1ft]

I live in Clarkston, MI and have not seen the pavement of my street since mid Dec.

I live in Ann Arbor. Streets get a lot more traffic and they were clear for miles

[mikubuilder]

chimming in, main streets were fine, but no way I could get out my driveway with all that ice...

[IanDMacDonald]

The other night when we had 40-something degree weather, I saw a motorcycle with sidecar out.

[Ind1anRid3r]

Hey, downshift, I seem to have the same issue as you, you mentioned checking "Timing" what exactly is this and where is it located.. my bike has just started after many years, and the owner said the carbs were cleaned before he put the bike to rest and that was quiet clear because of how the gas flow is working. carbs prolly arnt synced which is a whole different issue all together, but out of 8 times i tested the bike, only once did the bike go over 5k and when it did.. boy oh boy.. the bike TOOK OFF!!! went from 50 to 90mph in what felt like 1 second. so question here is.. what can i checked and have it marked off before i move to other stuff.. meaning where is this timing thing, and is it the same thing as the vacum timing which is screwed on top of pick up coils?

[D0wn5h1ft]

Hey, downshift, I seem to have the same issue as you, you mentioned checking "Timing" what exactly is this and where is it located.. my bike has just started after many years, and the owner said the carbs were cleaned before he put the bike to rest and that was quiet clear because of how the gas flow is working. carbs prolly arnt synced which is a whole different issue all together, but out of 8 times i tested the bike, only once did the bike go over 5k and when it did.. boy oh boy.. the bike TOOK OFF!!! went from 50 to 90mph in what felt like 1 second. so question here is.. what can i checked and have it marked off before i move to other stuff.. meaning where is this timing thing, and is it the same thing as the vacum timing which is screwed on top of pick up coils?

I can't promise that you're having the same problem as me because it sounds more like something is set wrong with your carbs from the information I've seen in your other thread. My timing was set wrong because the previouse owner had been messin about with trading parts off of this bike and his special to diagnos as issue.

If you don't have a clymer manual you should grab one online. There is a section that describes how to set the ignition timing. In short, here's the steps. You're going to need a timing light.

-Make sure your timing needle next to the timing plate aligns appropriately with the "T" on the timing plate. This can be done by placing the engine in TDC (I stuck a pencil in the #1 spark plug hole because I'm never EVER taking my heads off again) and then aligning the needle to the "T" by loosening the screws that hold it in place

-Grab your timing light and with the bike running at 1k Rpms make sure the needle points to the "F" on the timin plate

-Bring the bike to 5k Rpms and make sure the needle points at 36 degrees on the timing plate

Close everything up and you're done.

[DGXSER]

I would start with just checking the timing and assume the pointer is correct.

To really set the pointer, you should use a degree wheel. Basically it is just a circle marked out in degrees. The benefit to it is you put the wheel on the timing plate, bolt it on with that center bolt. install a pointer, even use the one you got if you want. Then turn the engine until the pencil or whatever you put in the #1 cylinder through the plug hole stops rising. With the crank in that position, move the degree wheel till the zero mark lines up with your pointer. Now keep turning the crank ever so slowly, until the pencil starts moving, down of course. At the pint it JUST starts to drop, stop moving the crank. Now note the difference between the current pointer location and the zero mark. Split the distance, and that is the actual TDC for the #1 piston. Move the crank to that half way mark. Now you can set your pointer to be aiming at the T mark on the timing plate.

Bit of a hassle, not very common for the timing mark to be wrong.

[mikubuilder]

I guess I would have a question to be related to this....in the process of unfreezing motor I broke off tabs from mech. advance that the timing wheel locks into....am I screwed, and should get new mech., or can I set wheel like you explained and ride on? You would really only need that wheel if you adjust valves, etc.? Correct?