Dent in Frame

[RichV]

Well I spent some time yesterday and today stripping the frame down to bare metal. I used Aircraft Paint Stripper and it made it "fairly" easy.

While stripping, I noticed a dent in one of the tubes going from the swingarm joint to the shock mount. I measured the bike to make sure this wasn't something that warped the frame and everything is okay.

It did slightly oval (very slightly) the tube which I was able to get back into tolerance. However, I still have this dent.

I'm going to paint or power coat the frame this week and would like to get ride of the dent. I can fill it with bondo (it's shallow) it that's okay for the painting/power coat. That would hide it.

So before I do this, I wanted to ask all the experts out there if they have ever fixed this before. It doesn't appear to be a structural issue, just ascetics.

Thanks again for all your help.

[TopCatGr58]

A RichV,

A quick google revealed that the fillter needs to be of a metallic structure for the magnetic powder coat to stick to it, along with being able to hold up to the high curing temps. One recommended using plumber's solder and build it up and then file/sand it down flat/smooth. That would probably be the cheapest approach provided you have that stuff, solder, torch, flux or such.

Another suggested something called ALL Metal, some type of bondo/putty, but said it was $$, I didn't try to find a link/site for it. I would suspect the same thing for other epoxy type products like QuickSteel, although it is quite strong/tough once it cures, and is supposed to endure ~500 degree temps?

T.C.

[CaptonZap]

A few years ago I needed to fill some imperfections in some engine sheet metal that was going to get powder coated.
I used solder, like the old time body men did, and when I got the pieces back, all of the fills had sagged. I think that most powders cure around 500 deg F, so if you use a solder, make sure that it melts above that temp.
Even the lead free solder sold at the box store melts around 420 deg F.
Silver solder, as used in refrigeration service, would work, but the temperature that it would need would not do the steel in the tube any good, since it would be a near red heat.
Not as hot as brass brazing, but not that much cooler. And those temps would cause some distortion of the steel tube when it cooled, so that is out.
The high temp two part fillers are about the only thing that I would recommend.
Or cover it with some reflectors.

CZ

[CaptonZap]

After due consideration, I have what would be a method to fill the dent without hurting the tube. Grind all the paint off of the dented portion, and take a MIG welder and put a spot weld down on each end of the dent. Let the tube cool naturally. When it us cool, put two more seperated spots down and repeat the process. As long as you don't get the tube too hot to touch, you won't get any heat shrinkage. After it is filled, grind and sand smooth.
A time consuming process, but one way of doing it.
CZ

[crazy steve]

DON'T use solder for filler under powdercoat... it will melt and run out; ask me how I know.... They make filler that's supposedly rated for this as TC mentioned but even that doesn't work all that well and is big $$. You can use cheaper JB Weld, but it needs to be 'heat cured' at the powder temp before coating but you'll probably still see the seam unless you do multiple coats and sand between them.

The only fool-poof filler under powder is metal, either weld or brazing.

You won't have these issues if you paint; bondo will work fine.

[RichV]

Thanks for the advice. I don't have the welding equipment to repair the frame dent and the other metal fillers seem all need to be heat cured.

It looks like power coat is out unless I can find a local painter that can do it for me.

Doing work like this is hard without a sand blaster and welder.

[James England]

Do you have any pix you could show everyone?

[DGXSER]

Doing work like this is hard without a sand blaster and welder.

I fully understand your position. The old saying goes "work smarter not harder". But when funds make the smart options no longer feasible, there is only one option left. And I to have neither of those things, among other nice to have equipment.

[RichV]

Here are photo's of the frame and swing arm along with a closeup of the two dings on the frame (not very clear).

[crazy steve]

You might ask your coater if he can fill those; he'll likely charge you extra, but that way you'll get a nice job. As an alternative, take the frame to a welding shop and have them fill the dents, then file to shape.

Trying to use any sort of epoxy fillers has one other disadvantage; the coater will sandblast the item before coating and usually will blast the filler off...

[fredintoon]

Here are photo's of the frame and swing arm along with a closeup of the two dings on the frame (not very clear).

Jeez Rich,
it's a bike, not a Stradivarius.
Even if you don't body-fill them nobody's gonna see those tiny dents once the bike is re-assembled.
So long as the frame is structurally sound, spray-paint it black and be happy.
Take the money you'd have spent on powdercoat and buy yourself a TKAT fork brace instead.

[James England]

Structurally, I would say you have nothing to bother about but cosmetically they might bother you once powder coated? If you don't fix them, that is...

[RichV]

If you haven't noticed from my other posts, I tend to be a bit of a perfectionist when it comes to repairs. I always over do it. I will obsess over a bubble in the paint and a dent no one can see.

I'll probably just end up filling the dents and painting it myself and living with my shortcomings.

That said, the advise everyone provides is great. It's helped me with some of the tougher issues.

[fredintoon]

If you haven't noticed from my other posts, I tend to be a bit of a perfectionist when it comes to repairs. I always over do it. I will obsess over a bubble in the paint and a dent no one can see.
I'll probably just end up filling the dents and painting it myself and living with my shortcomings. - - -

Hi Rich,
I know someone who brings a 1935 250cc Panther motorcycle to vintage bike rallies.
It looks like it has never been washed, painted or kept inside since the day it left the factory and all the guys with
their prettier-than-new restos hate him as they kick and kick to get their antiques running because his bike starts
first kick and runs like a Swiss watch.
I told him, "I know your little secret, that bike is brand new inside, right?"
"F*** off" he replied.
But you are not that guy, eh?
OK then, fill the dents with Bondo and sand them flush.
Alas, the Bondo won't accept powder-coat so you are stuck with using paint.
Those hidden dents can be your little secret.

[Schming]

If you haven't noticed from my other posts, I tend to be a bit of a perfectionist when it comes to repairs. I always over do it. I will obsess over a bubble in the paint and a dent no one can see.

Then it's settled, fill with weld, grind, file and sand to your liking and off to powder coating.

That's what I'd do 'cause ya just know it aint gonna run right if ya don't.