Hi again all, and thanks in advance for suggestions. I am trying to remove the allen bolt at the bottom of my '79 F fork lowers. It is turning, but not loosening. (I am replacing the fork seals.) The fork cap is on, but I have tried it with the cap off, to see if there was a reachable nut to grab onto from the top to grab while turning the allen. I have looked and looked on the threads for advice, and it seems to apply to Specials. I have tried to use the e-manual I have used before (Scribd) , and even tried to load the link to a couple of manuals on Catatonic's page and some others, too, with no luck. Thanks for your help.
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Loosening Allen bolt at end of fork lower?
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The easiest way is with an impact wrench. Sometimes they will come right out. Sometimes you need to stick something down in the tube to hold the guts from turning. A piece of wooden broom handle seems to be the most popular tool.
I have an old 3/8 drive socket that I pressed the treaded end of a bolt into so the head sticks out. I believe it's a 17mm head on the bolt and it works perfectly on my special forks with a long extension. A standard might use a different size.
You really need to take the cap off the tube, remove the spring and pour out the oil to do that.
There will be a lot of crud down in the bottom of the lower that needs to be cleaned out also.
Here's a pictoral that Crazy Steve posted that might help.
http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37399Greg
Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”
― Albert Einstein
80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.
The list changes.
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HERE is a thread where this is discussed. Bikerphil shows a tool he has made to serve the purpose.Life is what happens while your planning everything else!
When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.
81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection
Previously owned
93 GSX600F
80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
81 XS1100 Special
81 CB750 C
80 CB750 C
78 XS750
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Well, drove a broom handle home in top of fork, and held it from turning w/ vice grips. Tried to loosen allen bolt. Nothing. The double bolted rod on Phil's page is confusing, not sure if that's a useable thing for this job or not. Ready to try to remove fork seal w/out taking lower apart, but don't really want to scratch the crap out of everything. Also tried to download another manual for Yamaha's instructions, and it didn't work (a free file). My buddy has a manual, I mat see if I can borrow his (Clymer's).79 F
Previously owned: (among others)
1969 Harley- Davidson Rapido 125 (Aermacchi)
1967 Suzuki X6 Hustler
1973 Suzuki TM 125
1979 XS1100 F
2005 Kaw. Vulcan VN800
1991 BMW K75
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That bolt in the picture is in the damping rod, the part you are trying to keep from spinning. If you get your ratchet, a long extention, and a 19MM socket, you can feed it into the fork tube and hold the rod from spinning while removing the 8MM allen bolt from the bottom of the fork leg.
The one on the right in the pic is from Standard forks, it has the recess for the tool, the left one is from the special, you would be using a broomstick to hold those.
Last edited by bikerphil; 11-14-2013, 07:29 PM.2H7 (79) owned since '89
3H3 owned since '06
"If it ain't broke, modify it"
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Mark, if you don't get it loose I have a set of forks in the garage that are taken apart. I'll go out tomorrow and take some pics so you can see exactly what your dealing with.
OK?Greg
Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”
― Albert Einstein
80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.
The list changes.
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OK, did some more research on the site, and (I hope) I see things correctly now. For the Standard forks, I can make a tool by using a threaded rod, and 2 19mm bolts, cinched at the end by counter-tightening them upon each other. The pic from BPhil shows one. So I slip this 20 or so inch long tool down the upper tube, let it seat ( in the receptacle that that is the top of the damper tube/rod that I really can't see too well, but must have a socket style top, as in another of BPhil's pics), and commence to loosen the allen bolt while holding the tool and keeping the damper rod from rotating. This is a run-on sentence, I know. Does this sound correct? I work tomorrow, so I will get to this Saturday and report. Thanks BPhil and BA et al.79 F
Previously owned: (among others)
1969 Harley- Davidson Rapido 125 (Aermacchi)
1967 Suzuki X6 Hustler
1973 Suzuki TM 125
1979 XS1100 F
2005 Kaw. Vulcan VN800
1991 BMW K75
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Greg
Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”
― Albert Einstein
80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.
The list changes.
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Cool. I will tackle the damper rod this weekend. As part of my after report, I will post a before / after pic or 2 of the refinish job on the lowers. They are a bit corroded and pitted.79 F
Previously owned: (among others)
1969 Harley- Davidson Rapido 125 (Aermacchi)
1967 Suzuki X6 Hustler
1973 Suzuki TM 125
1979 XS1100 F
2005 Kaw. Vulcan VN800
1991 BMW K75
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O.K. Done and done. Used threaded rod tool and held damper rod, and removed allen bolts at ends of lowers. Out are the old seals, ans I will install new seals after I refinish Lowers. I will use 600, 1200, 2000 grit, then use a clear Duplicolor DE 1636 engine enamel to finish them. Thanks for the tips on this process guys. Pics to follow at some point.79 F
Previously owned: (among others)
1969 Harley- Davidson Rapido 125 (Aermacchi)
1967 Suzuki X6 Hustler
1973 Suzuki TM 125
1979 XS1100 F
2005 Kaw. Vulcan VN800
1991 BMW K75
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Once you shine the lowers to that extent, you reduce surface area and all it takes is occasional polishing with mothers milk or the like. I only shine then up annually, but this is Denver which is really a non corrosive environment.Skids (Sid Hansen)
Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.
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