hard start

[Jeffintampa]

hey guys my 1100 when it starts especially when warm sounds like a dead battery wher wher wher wher wher then starts, runs great no problems at all just that kinda dead battery start (just put a new battery in it)

Thanks

[ViperRon]

Not quite sure about the noise when starting so I'll try to clarify. When the battery is week or starter is week you will ususally have like a ticking clicking noise where the starter is engauged but can not spin. There is another noise more like what you are describing when the starter clutch sticks. Do a search in the forums section for Starter Repairs and there are a few different things there. In winter its common to have this problem sometimes its poor connections in starter others flushing the engine helps the starter clutch get free. Do the search read what others have done. This more relates to a wher wher noise.

[TopCatGr58]

I'll jump in here. Ron, I think he's saying that his engine is turning over more slowly...like ....errrrr.....errrrrr.....errrrrrr....vroom!?

Others have commented that when their bikes get warm they are harder to start...takes a lot more turns/revs before it will start, and that the starter sounds like it's running slower.

Jeff, when the bike is warm/hot the pistons/rings expand and can create more friction in the cylinders, more drag , as well as sealing better so more compession which can put more stress on the starter.

Okay, new battery....first did you properly PRE-Charge = top up the battery with a 2 amp trickle charger before actually installing it and putting it to use? They come precharged/drycharged from the factory, but after putting in the electrolyte, you are supposed to charge it overnight to allow it to reach its full charging capacity!

Next, there are 2 grounds for the bike, the battery negative to the frame, but the 2nd is the grounding strap at the starter housing to the frame under the carbs/battery box. Have you removed that bolt at the strap on the starter, as well as at its frame connection, cleaned both and all contact points, and then reassemble, and then apply dielectric grease over them?

Also, removing the (+) cables where they connect to the solenoid, and then again to the starter, again cleaning all contact points may go a long way in reducing some of the possible loss of current flow to and thru the starter.

After doing this, then see how it behaves. If it's still turning slowly, then put a jumper/booster battery to it and see if that helps. IF so...then your new battery may not be so good....you may need to have it load tested.

T.C.

[bikerphil]

The connection that rarely gets checked is the + at the starter itself, under the plastic cover, it could be corroded.

[WMarshy]

Did you buy the right battery with enough CCA's?

[Jeffintampa]

Thanks

Yes I did tickel the new charge, Its the battery my bike calls for in the book, I will do the list that top cat says and see what happens

Thank you all

[ViperRon]

Jeff
as well as what others have told you to check, there is one other issue I have found on these bikes. The original ground on mine was a web weeve with black insulated cover ground wire going from the battery ground to frame. This wire tends to corrode white and green and can drop amperage accross it. To test just use another thick #8 or greater prefferably copper wire to ground from battery ground to good frame ground. If starter works better more than likely that ground wire is severly corroded inside.

There are some companies that sell battery's that should turn over the engine well based on their rating but are not top quality. They get week in a short time.When I put the over bore kit in mine I had to move to an AGM high amp battery and even it struggles when the bike is warm.

Ron