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Vac Line for #2 Carb

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  • Vac Line for #2 Carb

    I have a problem that I couldn't find an answer to in the forums so if it's there, please just provide the link. I'm working on a 81 XS1100 Special.

    While cleaning the carbs during a rebuild, I found that one of the posts for the float was broken. I have a spare set of carbs so I just opened up the #2 spare and found that it was broken as well and jury rigged. Carb #2's body is the same as the other carbs (almost) so I'm looking to swap one in I know is undamaged. The problem is that #2 has the vac line for the ignition advance on the output side.

    It appears to be a pressure fit copper tube and on the other carbs, the hole is plugged. So here are my questions.

    1. If I drill out the plug, how deep should I go? I can measure it but it may not be accurate.
    2. Is there an easier way to handle this?
    3. Is this post being broken a common problem?

    Thanks again for all the help you guys have given me so far.
    _________________________________________
    1981 XS1100SH (Lola) - Bright Cardinal Red
    Whatever Lola wants, Lola gets.. Don't mess with Lola.
    Mostly stock with a few minor upgrades
    1981 XS11000SH being used for parts (Sold off)

    Also have:
    2009 Harley Davidson FLSTC with over 120K miles. All mine.

    Currently traveling the country with an aluminum can in tow and a motorcycle in the truck bed in search of the perfect road.

  • #2
    I can only answer one of your questions, the broken float post is not an uncommon problem. Many ways have been devised to repair these.

    HERE is a thread on a method or two I used. With your having two with broken post, the first method may work well for you.
    Life is what happens while your planning everything else!

    When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.

    81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
    80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection


    Previously owned
    93 GSX600F
    80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
    81 XS1100 Special
    81 CB750 C
    80 CB750 C
    78 XS750

    Comment


    • #3
      In your other post you say that it is #3 that had the broken post.

      You could put a #1 carb in place of #3.

      #1 and #3 can be interchanged and the #2 and #4 an interchange. Some work might be needed depending on which ones are moving where.
      Nathan
      KD9ARL

      μολὼν λαβέ

      1978 XS1100E
      K&N Filter
      #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
      OEM Exhaust
      ATK Fork Brace
      LED Dash lights
      Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

      Green Monster Coils
      SS Brake Lines
      Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

      In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

      Theodore Roosevelt

      Comment


      • #4
        Rich, if you do plan on drilling a different (1,3 or 4) carb body to put the vac advance port in, be careful and measure the hole size.
        That port is very small to meter the vacuum to the advance mech.
        John (Nightengale) was thinking about doing this to his FJ carbs that he has on his XS11, but hasn't yet. (probably out of fear of screwing it up)
        His bike runs fine without the advance, but I think his mileage suffers a little.

        The thought is: you use a bit the size of the tube, and go just deep enough to fit the tube in, then a really small bit for the metering hole thru to the throat of the carb.

        You may be better off repairing the float post. There are som engenious ideas on different fixes here on this site. I like the threaded type fixes. They seem to hold up well.
        Hi, my name is George & I'm a twisty addict!

        80G (Green paint(PO idea))
        The Green Monster
        K&N A/F, TC's fuse block, '81 oil cooler, TC's homemade 4-2 w/Mac Mufflers, Raptor 660 ACCT
        Got him in '04.
        bald tire & borrowing parts

        80SG (Black w/red emblems & calipers)
        Scarlet
        K&N A/F, TC's fuse block, WJ5, Shoei bags, Raptor 660 ACCT.
        Got her in '11
        Ready for the twisties!

        81H (previously CPMaynard's)
        Hugo
        Full Venturer, Indigo Blue with B/W painted tank.
        Cold weather ride

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by GLoweVA View Post
          The thought is: you use a bit the size of the tube, and go just deep enough to fit the tube in, then a really small bit for the metering hole thru to the throat of the carb.
          I would suggest doing it the other way around. Drill the metering hole first. That way you have the thickness of the metal first and then you can set a depth for the larger hole.
          Nathan
          KD9ARL

          μολὼν λαβέ

          1978 XS1100E
          K&N Filter
          #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
          OEM Exhaust
          ATK Fork Brace
          LED Dash lights
          Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

          Green Monster Coils
          SS Brake Lines
          Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

          In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

          Theodore Roosevelt

          Comment


          • #6
            The #2 carb is the only one that is extremely difficult to swap with another. 1,3,&4 can be swapped around simply by changing the butterfly linkage. It's almost impossible to drill a #4 carb to swap out with a #2. You have to drill it pretty much EXACTLY in the right spot to get it right.

            What year bike do you have? I don't see it in your signature.
            Greg

            Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

            ― Albert Einstein

            80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

            The list changes.

            Comment


            • #7
              Sorry about the confusion in the previous post, I got the carbs backwards on the bench when I made the post. It's #2.

              I just spent some time looking over the carb body more closely and there are several little differences. It would be MUCH easier to just fix the post and move on. After all, it's just the post for the float and not a high stress item.

              Thanks again for the help.
              _________________________________________
              1981 XS1100SH (Lola) - Bright Cardinal Red
              Whatever Lola wants, Lola gets.. Don't mess with Lola.
              Mostly stock with a few minor upgrades
              1981 XS11000SH being used for parts (Sold off)

              Also have:
              2009 Harley Davidson FLSTC with over 120K miles. All mine.

              Currently traveling the country with an aluminum can in tow and a motorcycle in the truck bed in search of the perfect road.

              Comment


              • #8
                I had a broken post in one of my three running xs11's. (maybe I still do). With mine, although the goal post was broken, the axle was secured from one side, the carb worked perfectly. I think one the side was broken right at the hole bottom and the axle was touching a hole remnant.

                Concerning the vacuum advance to the carb, the hole is small to help prevent pressure pulsing. I would think that if you drilled a small hole (but larger than the OEM hole) all the way through the plug, the resistance might end-up being the same as the OEM hole. I know you are probably worried using the tiny drill bit that you would need if you bored through into the ventouri. Does this make sense to you? It does to me.
                Skids (Sid Hansen)

                Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

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