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I was just thinking about this whole heated grips thing. I bought the Tour Master heated jacket, pants, gloves combo and think it's the greatest thing ever. I still wear layers to protect against the wind, etc., as wearing it alone will not work. But, part of the reason your hands get so damn cold is the wind. So, will those heated grips be that effective with not so great gloves? The Tour Master gloves I use are basically snow mobile gloves, gore-tex shell providing great wind/water resistance. I have a pair of Castle X gloves that do the same. Problem with the gloves is dexterity. It's hard to "know" the friction zone of the clutch with these gloves on. I know some have used hippo hands, while others have used the wind deflectors. I think a combo of wind protection and the heated grips is the ideal setup.
Right you are! I have a pair of hippo hands at the ready if necessary, that along with my Scarab gloves works well in the extreme. For cold weather riding my standard is the Held Freezer gloves
There's us worrying about the volts/amps draw from our heated grips!!!
Do you use this set up on your XS and does your charging system cope?
I agree on the heated grips vs heated gloves, you do tend to have the outside of your hands cold whilst the palms are warm, another problem is having really good gloves, keeps the cold out but also the hot from the grips. My problem with being wired to the bike is I just know I'll get off and walk away forgeting, done it with the intercom DOH!
They make gloves designed specifically for heated grips, fully insulated on the exposed side and engineered to make full use of the heat from the grips.
As far as leaving them on when you get off the bike, I doubt you'll make that mistake twice
I'll have to have a look around for some heated grip gloves, they makes sense.
I never gave anything like that a thought.
Tom
1982 5K7 Sport, restored to original from a wreck
1978 2H9 (E), my original XS11, mostly original
1980 2H9 monoshocked (avatar pic)http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...psf30aa1c8.jpg
1982 XJ1100, waiting resto to original
I'll have to have a look around for some heated grip gloves, they makes sense.
I never gave anything like that a thought.
To be clear the gloves themselves are not heated. They are just not as insulated as the outside area to allow heat to penetrate through to the palm area. I believe Held "warm & dry" is one such glove.
Haha, yes I got it thanks, maybe I should have typed "heated grips" gloves
I'll put them on my xmas list for my family for when they say they never know what to buy me.
Tom
1982 5K7 Sport, restored to original from a wreck
1978 2H9 (E), my original XS11, mostly original
1980 2H9 monoshocked (avatar pic)http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...psf30aa1c8.jpg
1982 XJ1100, waiting resto to original
there is something very wrong with that diagram
one side of the relay is the trigger side 86 it is wired from a running light , power on when the key is on and started , then out to 85 to ground the other side 30/51 is the hot wire from the battery with a fuse in it the other 2 terminals are the same electrically (87 and 87a are outputs) NB use only one to the grip control if you need to wire a switch for the grips it goes on this side between 87 and the grip controller this will work for you
NOTICE: No trees were destroyed in the sending of this message. We do concede, however, that a significant number of electrons may have been inconvenienced.
Any connection between your reality and mine is purely coincidental.
Member of "FOXS-11" (Former Owner of XS-11)
and SOXS
2008 Nomad "Deja Buick'
you can test the relay when it is not connected to anything between 86 and 85 should be a complete circuit ohms the other 2 should show no circuit power to 86 and 85 should make a click sound and the you should have a complete circuit between 30/51 and 87
do not have any wires other than your ohm meter attached to these terminals
this is what completes the circuit from the battery
Jim
Seamus Ó hUrmholtaigh
Niimi Moozhwaagan
NOTICE: No trees were destroyed in the sending of this message. We do concede, however, that a significant number of electrons may have been inconvenienced.
Any connection between your reality and mine is purely coincidental.
Member of "FOXS-11" (Former Owner of XS-11)
and SOXS
2008 Nomad "Deja Buick'
Yeah, your big thick power wire coming from the battery will be on 30/51. The your grips will need to be connected to 87 and 87a will be left empty. 85 is the geound, and 86 is for the keyed power wire for a trigger.
87 and 87a are now the same. 87a is a normally closed circuit, so that means when the bike is off the grips would be able to be used but when the bike is on then they would now work. 87 is a normally open circuit, so when the bike is off the grips don't work and when the bike is on the grips work.
Nathan
KD9ARL
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1978 XS1100E K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters Green Monster Coils SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
there is something very wrong with that diagram
one side of the relay is the trigger side 86 it is wired from a running light , power on when the key is on and started , then out to 85 to ground the other side 30/51 is the hot wire from the battery with a fuse in it the other 2 terminals are the same electrically (87 and 87a are outputs) NB use only one to the grip control if you need to wire a switch for the grips it goes on this side between 87 and the grip controller this will work for you
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