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More paint questions - Tank, side panels, frame

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  • #16
    I'll answer your questions because I'm bored, and I'm a nice guy, but my advice is to use the search tool, as all of these questions have been answered before. Also, there is a forum thread about this under one of the topics.

    1. Prep work is what leads to a great finish. However, we're talking frame here, where the only thing you see is the front down tubes in-front of the engine. Depending on how far you break the bike down would determine your prep. If you took it all thevwqy down to the frame, you my-as-well sandblast it. But, if it was me, I'd sand it, examine it for cracks, etc., and paint it with a good Rustoleum paint.
    2. You can put down a dust coat, then 3-5 coats of primer, sanded smooth when cured.
    3. Paint is your preference just like oil weight and brand. Use search function for this.
    4. You could if you wanted to (2k urethane), but I woildn't. It's the frame . . .
    1979 XS1100F
    2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by RichV View Post

      My compressor is a Porter-Cable 6 gallon unit I've had for about 10 years and have been very pleased with it's portability and performance. I've mainly used it to power my tools and use it almost daily. It is rated at 2.6 SCFM @ 90psi and 3.7 SCFM @ 40psi. It has two gauges that provide the tank and output pressure, which is adjustable to 45psi. I have been told I need at least a 20 gallon unit with 7 SCFM @ 45psi to spray paint and the cheapest one I can find is $199 dollars at HF.

      Where I have the most problems is with the painting. All I want to do is paint the frame, tank and side panels gloss black. No color match is required. This is a learning curve for me since all I've ever done is the prep. I don't want to powdercoat the frame. It has some rust at a couple of joints but it did clean up nicely and may only need a a new coat so it's even. I have been painting smaller components with rattle can enamel paint and they look great.


      1. Do I have to strip the frame or will sanding and painting be okay?
      2. After sanding how many coats of primer? Do I need to cover only the exposed areas with primer?
      3. What paint should I use after priming? How many coats?
      4. Do I need a top coat of come kind after painting?

      Sorry if the questions sound basic. I really don't want to screw this up and have to start over. I also can't afford to pay someone at this point. If the compressor I have will work, I might be okay is I know how to get the paint.
      Hi Rich,
      provided there is one, the air reservoir size is not critical. Tee in your car's spare tire if you need to. The only important thing is the CFM.
      If you paint cars for money your advisors are right; you'll need a ~ 7CFM compressor to keep up to a professional paint gun.
      (you will also need a downdraft paint booth and protective gear)
      You should use a good breathing mask anyway, paint solvents and particulate are seriously bad for your health.
      For an amateur fizzing over some bike parts with an el-cheapo touch-up gun your advisors are full of it, your existing compressor will work just fine.
      Fred Hill, S'toon
      XS11SG with Spirit of America sidecar
      "The Flying Pumpkin"

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