Reverse Trike Project

[wingnut]

OK I see it now. Thanks for the pictures. Innovative idea using the finial drive from the bike and mounting a sprocket to the output flange. Looks like it should handle the load if the bearing mount on that RH side is beefy enough. Neat project keep the info coming.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Wheel,

You were close with those photo links, you just used the URL tags...selected the insert a web page link instead of the insert a photo tags. Photo tags use the [ img ] .....link.....[ /img ] type tags...I just put spaces in these to allow them to be seen.

I agree...interesting drive train solution. I'm concerned about your exhaust pipes though....that design would most likely rob the engine of a fair amount of power/performance due to the extreme backpressure and pressure waves from the various cylinders hitting each other and the cross header/collector!
There seems to be plenty of room in front of the engine to allow regular styled pipes. If you have a welder, you can even make your own with prebent angled pipe sections...I did it for a local friend...there's a thread that shows how I did it. Just thinking that you'll want as much power out of that engine that you can get, and I think you'll be wasting a fair amount of horsepower with those headers!

T.C.

[Rasputin]

I am actually thinking that the way those pipes are run that they may induce their own back pressure. That forward looking part that sticks out may actually work as a bit of a resonator type of restriction that would increase back pressure.
Not a fluid mechanic but wondering if that may be something to think about.

[daveyg]

Very, very interesting creation! I like it, but would also recommend a bit different header design, it's surprising how much power changes (on a car anyway) going from a log manifold to even short headers with only 5-6" of primary. Other than that this looks way cool! I can only imagine what handling must be like with that stance and very low center of gravity!

[XsWheel]

http://s849.photobucket.com/user/pkr...tml?sort=3&o=0

[Rasputin]

When you are at your picture on Photobucket simply click on the IMG area when you are looking at links to share your picture. Then copy that and post it normally so your picture will show instead of the link to your account and picture. Also push enter before and after each link is posted as this will keep the pics from making a long sideways viewing window.

[XsWheel]

http://s849.photobucket.com/user/pkr...tml?sort=3&o=0



I thought I had it that time. Oh well.. At least I got a link up without my wifes help this time. The previous bike had around a 120 hp (on its best day) which seemed like plenty for the 1100 lbs that it was. It's prob lighter now as I've cut a lot of chunks of steel off since. So yes I would like all the power I can get. Big surprise !! I would like to put a more conventional exhaust on this thing.. problem is I do not have much clearance. Then there's the wheelbase. If I get my hands on any system designed for an XS11 then it will curl under the frame adding to my clearance woes. Right?? The custom pipe idea sounds ok but I don't think me and my harbor freight wire feed are up for the challenge.

A guy on this board sold me an oil cooler set up That can't hurt. I will need to hit the salvage yard and pick out a bigger dissipater? or radiator for it probably. I was avoiding mentioning it but I did sheer off the tops of 1 and 3 idle jets. Then I tried the smallest screw removal reverse thread tool. Broke that off in there. €#%^. Got some good torque on it before it broke too. Hmm?So I have a spare parts carb rack off eBay coming in the mail. I got the rebuild kits a couple weeks ago. New boots. The four cylinders showed me around 120 psi sitting there cold. For what it's worth.

[XsWheel]

I got my carb rack the other day from Grim Cycle Salvage via eBay. Shiny and clean. I ordered the 80-82 carbs used w some parts missing. Between my rebuild kit and my original carbs I should have been good Except the carbs I got from them are actually 78-79. Even labeled 80-82. They take the threaded float valves not the smooth ones. Brass floats not plastic and 3 other key things according to the thread on here about carb Identity. (Thanks! It was very helpful to me) I sent them an email with a picture yesterday. We will see..

Another fine fellow here on the board is giving me some well broken in 4 into 1 exhaust system for the cost of shipping. Hooray! Free is good. Thank you Steve!

I have my starter clutch rebuild kit in hand. I've done several on previous bike. The kit looks identical. Can't wait to get my hands dirty. Now if I can just figure out how to get gas and air to my cylinders I will be set.

[Nightengale]

[/QUOTE]

shouldnt the front sprocket be smaller than the rear sprocket

[XsWheel]

I can only guess. I am thinking that the small front sprocket is for when it's coming right off the tranny.? The Rear and fabricated sprockets are both 8" close as I can tell. So 1 to 1 power transfer. Whatever the original tire would have been doing hooked up to final drive (sitting there rusting haha) now the Busa tire will do that same thing. Can you tell I have as many questions as answers?

[TopCatGr58]

Hey John,

Since it's driving off of the FINAL DRIVE, then it would want/need to match whatever the rear wheel would need to do, so he's right in that it needs to be a 1:1 ratio providing the rear wheel is the same circumference as an XS11.

However, depending on how hard it is to push that thing, and the eventual top end speed he would want, he may want to actually reduce/increase the ratio to give him more leverage at the rear wheel, so a smaller front sprocket vs. the actual wheel sprocket would give him more take off leverage, and possibly better leverage for the top end mileage, otherwise he might not be able to get it into 5th and maintain speed due to being too heavy, and I doubt he would want to be able to get it to 135mph, or even possibly 100mph, so he would have room for ratio adjustments for sure!

T.C.

[RUSH]

If you want to Increase Power to the rear then a larger sprocket would be correct. If you want to increase Rotation than a smaller sprocket would be correct. Bearing in mind the drive train I would go with the smaller sprocket at the drive wheel.

[TopCatGr58]

If you want to Increase Power to the rear then a larger sprocket would be correct. If you want to increase Rotation than a smaller sprocket would be correct. Bearing in mind the drive train I would go with the smaller sprocket at the drive wheel.

Hey Rush,

I think the more appropriate word would be SPEED instead of power with the larger front sprocket. The larger front sprocket feeds more chain thru/around the rear sprocket per revolution, so it spins the rear sprocket/wheel faster. But with the smaller front sprocket, it feeds less chain, so the front sprocket has to turn more rpms for the rear to turn 1 rpms, and so the engine has more leverage=power to spin the rear wheel....not as fast, but more powerfully, torquey.

T.C.

[natemoen]

No matter what, the more parts and different links in the drive line, the less power actually gets to the wheel.

[Geezer]

It looks cool but it'll fry the engine in short order. That design really needs a water cooled engine...

Tony