Power to the fuse block and the nothing

[DGXSER]

If you have no power at the solid red wire at the key switch you need to find the main fuse and check for power at each side. If you have power at each side of the fuse, then you must have a bad connector or a bad wire.

[russell]

Checked power to the key switch, solid red with a multi meter. Have power to 3 wires but no reading on the yellow. Have checked the wiring diagram and it only shows three wires, no yellow? Also key switch has 4 wires. Is the yellow important?

[DGXSER]

The 78-79 models have a three wire main switch. The 80-81 have a four wire switch.

None of the US models had a yellow wire to the switch.

If you have power to the red wire, your main fuse is good. There should be a brown wire that powers the fuse box. The blue wire powers the tail light fuse.

If you have 12 v on the brown wire then you should have 12 v on one side of your other fuses.

[BA80]

You think that yellow wire might be for the park lights that come on when the switch is turned to lock?

[natemoen]

You think that yellow wire might be for the park lights that come on when the switch is turned to lock?

No, that goes through the blue wire.

You also have to remember he is in Australia. They may have some different things going on in their wiring.

[BA80]

You also have to remember he is in Australia. They may have some different things going on in their wiring.

Exactly..................

[fredintoon]

Checked power to the key switch, solid red with a multi meter. Have power to 3 wires but no reading on the yellow. Have checked the wiring diagram and it only shows three wires, no yellow? Also key switch has 4 wires. Is the yellow important?

Hi Russell,
the yellow wire goes from the alternator to the dimmer relay. Not sure what it does but it ain't part of the problem.
You fitted harness & bar switches from a US model '78.
Then you bought a 4-wire ignition switch.
The stock US '78 has a 3-wire ignition switch.
IF the 4-wire ignition switch is from a later model XS11 it should have the same red, blue and tan wires that are on the 3-wire ignition switch plus an additional red/yellow wire to run the later model's 4-way emergency flashers.
BUT are the switch plug-ins wired the same way?
You may have to snip the plug-ins off the harness and the switch and use individual connectors to get the wires connected right.
What you should end up with is the red wire being powered all the time, the tan wire being powered when the key is turned to ON and the blue wire being powered when the key is turned to ON and when it's turned to PARK.

[russell]

Why did Yamaha in their wisdom have different models, Australian all came with oil coolers.

Back to my problem, found the original key switch has 4 wires, red, blue, brown, white. Not sure what the white is for. Second question, still have the original wiring harness, bit beaten up and missing some plugs, do I start rebuilding or still try the trouble shooting. Also have a partial wrecked xs1100 1980 and has the same 4 wire key switch. I'm totally confused.

[DGXSER]

Well Russell, we may be adding some confusion as a lot of us are only familiar with the US models. So the Ausie bits will throw us off a little. As to why they built different models, that would be to satisfy different regulations in the different areas of the world. Dang Aussie's always gotta be different, don't you.

I would suggest not getting over concerned with the white wire for now. If you look at your fuse panel, you should see a brown wire, and a blue wire feeding most if not all the fuses. Basically this is like following a creek or stream. The juice flows from the battery to the device through the wires and switches. You just need to find the path it should take, and see what junction point along the path the juice stops flowing. That will allow you to determine what needs cleaned or reconnected. I have seen several connectors, especially the crimp on types where someone did not get a good crimp, it all looks good, but does not function.

[fredintoon]

Vive le difference!

Why did Yamaha in their wisdom have different models, Australian all came with oil coolers.

Back to my problem, found the original key switch has 4 wires, red, blue, brown, white. Not sure what the white is for. Second question, still have the original wiring harness, bit beaten up and missing some plugs, do I start rebuilding or still try the trouble shooting. Also have a partial wrecked xs1100 1980 and has the same 4 wire key switch. I'm totally confused.

Hi Russell,
from previous posts, you put a US model wiring harness and handlebar switches on your Australian bike.
And a new Australian model 4-wire ignition switch.
The components (alternator, regulator/rectifier, ignition module, etc.) that plug into the US harness are also the Australian originals?
Oh dear.
Find a US model and an Australian model wiring diagram and compare the wiring colours and placements on each.
Note that 1980 and later North American XS11s also have a 4-wire ignition switch. THAT 4th wire is a red/yellow that powers the 4-way flashers.
No idea what your Australian 4th white wire is for.
It could be that even if you do manage to get the ignition switch connectors sorted out it there may be more problems to solve.

[motoman]

Have replaced the old fuse block with new, checked to make sure i still have power, all good. Cleaned up the earth contacts.
Jumped the solenoid and stater cranks so power is there.
recleaned all contacts.
Still no power to the Ignition switch. I'm thinking there could be a fault with the kill switch? On another thread they say to turn key on, check red/white wires from the switch to ground for voltage, then check red/white at the starter solenoid for voltage. My question is, if there is no power to the key switch will this make a difference?

Your on the right track. Kill switch notoriously gets forgotten about. All current runs through it. Removing it, and soaking all pieces in EvaporRust amazingly found my missing 1.5V of all important smoke(thanks 3Phase) that was needed(and missing from coils). Had previously been 'arguing' with this symptom on and off for 5+yrs.


The Honda VF coils solved the rest of the secondary ignition issue. So much as touch the start button and it starts cold or hot instantly.

JAT, and is another problimatic area.

[russell]

Power at Last

Ok you guys are going to kill me. Had a friend come over who can read. Had the wires plugged into the wrong wiring plug. Traced the wires and yep it helps if they are in the right plug. Power straight away. Hit the starter button a few times the OMG after 17 years it fired up.

Thanks for all your input but I guess when you are down under everything is upside down. LOL

[James England]

Ok you guys are going to kill me. Had a friend come over who can read. Had the wires plugged into the wrong wiring plug. Traced the wires and yep it helps if they are in the right plug. Power straight away. Hit the starter button a few times the OMG after 17 years it fired up.

Thanks for all your input but I guess when you are down under everything is upside down. LOL

Given that you live upside down, I'm sure everyone will forgive you..

[DGXSER]

Since we all know which way it runs, and your down under, well....It just seems to fit you would have it for brains. Seriously though, I would like to tell you I have never spent a couple hours looking for a serious problem only to find it was something as simple, like the stop run stop switch turned to stop. But I would be liar if I did.