Power to the fuse block and the nothing

[russell]

IF there already a thread can someone point me too it.
Wiring loom installed, all connectors cleaned, new battery, have power to the fuse block. Turn the key on NOTHING. No lights on the instrument panel, no headlight or turn signals. I’m a bit of a Gumby when it comes to anything electrical. One thing I do have is a multi-meter not sure how it works but I have one.
If anyone can help it would be greatly appreciated. This rebuild has taken three years just plodding around and I’m so close yet so far away from finishing with this issue.
Russell

[mack]

Bike

Please indicate what bike we are talking about here. And I assume it was an extensive restore if 36 months was involved. Is it the original fuse block or TC's ?

[fredintoon]

IF there already a thread can someone point me too it.
Wiring loom installed, all connectors cleaned, new battery, have power to the fuse block. Turn the key on NOTHING. No lights on the instrument panel, no headlight or turn signals. I’m a bit of a Gumby when it comes to anything electrical. One thing I do have is a multi-meter not sure how it works but I have one.
If anyone can help it would be greatly appreciated. This rebuild has taken three years just plodding around and I’m so close yet so far away from finishing with this issue.
Russell

Hi Russ,
your profile sez it's a '78E. Is it an Australian model or an Import?
Starting from scratch.
Switch your multimeter to DC Volts.
There's usually several ranges, 0 to 20V is the one that will work best.
Put the red spike on the battery's + and the black spike on the -
(A good battery will read 13 V, a duff one will read 11V but should still work the ignition)
Next, check from battery + to a frame ground (Earth?) you should still see the same battery Voltage.
Now chase the power through the system until you find the fail point.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Russell,

The ignition switch can be disassembled, the wires can come unsoldered, as well as just corrosion inside the switch/contact plates....check there.

Also, the headlight won't necessarily come on UNTIL the bike is running (Usually), some of the early models allow you to turn on the headlight, but this was later changed to a latching headlight relay that only throws once the engine is running and charging current is sensed at the relay.

T.C.

[skids]

Concerning the multimeter, make sore there is no voltage if checking ohms.

[russell]

Power to the fuse block and the nothing

Hi Russ,
your profile sez it's a '78E. Is it an Australian model or an Import?
Starting from scratch.
Switch your multimeter to DC Volts.
There's usually several ranges, 0 to 20V is the one that will work best.
Put the red spike on the battery's + and the black spike on the -
(A good battery will read 13 V, a duff one will read 11V but should still work the ignition)
Next, check from battery + to a frame ground (Earth?) you should still see the same battery Voltage.
Now chase the power through the system until you find the fail point.

Model is 78E Australian model, wiring loom USA from a running 78E (advertised). Left and right hand switches were brought from the USA to match the wiring loom plugs.
Fuse block is original, some tabs have been repaired, with the multi meter it shows voltage.
Ignition switch was purchased new.
As suggested using the multi meter, red to + black to -. All ok there, battery + to frame (painted) no reading, battery + to unpainted surface (chrome bolt or nut) have a good reading. Should this make a difference and will this affect the ground wire?

[TopCatGr58]

Hey again Russell,

The OEM fusebox with the glass fuses are just problems waiting to happen when you least expect or need them to. Rip that old fuse holder out, and pick up a 4 or 6 slot ATCO solid fuse style holder and wire that in there.

I resell one for members here, but it'll probably be cheaper for you to find one locally. IF you can't find one, at least put the 1/4" female tabs onto the ends of the wires, and then you can just plug the ATCO fuse directly to the wires with the tabs..and then zip tie them together for security/safety.

The next thing is YES....the painted frame can interfere with the current flow back to the battery if the ground wires are not against bare metal! There are 2 main grounds,....the battery (-) to frame under left side cover, and the second is ENGINE STRAP to frame at starter motor below carbs and battery box. Will need to remove paint from those contact points, and then AFTER connecting wire to frame apply dielectric grease around the contact point to prevent rust/corrosion from forming on the exposed bare metal. The Grease is INSULATING, so you don't want it BETWEEN the wire/grounding strap and it's contact with the frame.

T.C.

[natemoen]

There are also all the wires grounded under the reg/rect.

[Cobia]

Just a thought, does the E have a "Main" fuse as my G and J have? Could that be the problem? Have you checked it? That fuse lives on a wire in front of the battery in my G and on the left rear side of the battery on my J.
Another place to check is the kill switch, is it in good shape? Have you taken it apart and cleaned it and checked for proper operation?
I know, I know, I said one thought but.....

[natemoen]

Just a thought, does the E have a "Main" fuse as my G and J have? Could that be the problem? Have you checked it? That fuse lives on a wire in front of the battery in my G and on the left rear side of the battery on my J.
Another place to check is the kill switch, is it in good shape? Have you taken it apart and cleaned it and checked for proper operation?
I know, I know, I said one thought but.....

No, the E and the F do not have a remote main fuse like the later models, it is just another fuse in the main fuse block.

[BA80]

First thing I would do is check to see if there is power to the ignition switch. If so, the switch or it's connections would be suspect.

If not, back probe the red wire from the switch and find where your loosing connection.

[crazy steve]

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35337

[fredintoon]

Model is 78E Australian model, wiring loom USA from a running 78E (advertised). Left and right hand switches were brought from the USA to match the wiring loom plugs.
Fuse block is original, some tabs have been repaired, with the multi meter it shows voltage.
Ignition switch was purchased new.
As suggested using the multi meter, red to + black to -. All ok there, battery + to frame (painted) no reading, battery + to unpainted surface (chrome bolt or nut) have a good reading. Should this make a difference and will this affect the ground wire?

Hi Russell,
c'mon, paint is an insulator, eh? So long as the power gets to the metal inside it you are good.
What I'd do.
Connect across the two big terminals on the starter solenoid. The starter should spin until you pull the pliers/wrench/other sturdy connector off again.
With the ignition OFF check the Voltage between the red wire and ground from both sides of the main fuse.
Then check from the other end of the red wire at the ignition switch.
If you see 12V to ground you are OK so far.
Turn the ignition ON.
The tail light & front marker lights (blue wire) should come on.
The tan wire should be powered up to feed the secondary fuses which should let power go to all the other systems.
Check for Voltage between each wire end and ground until you find the wire that ain't working.

[russell]

Thanks

Thanks for all the input. Will work my way through each suggestion. Yea been 3 years and soooo close. Just plodding along and buying parts when I had spare money. If you live in the US it's all good, but here in Oz postage kills us. Brought a front fender for $35 postage was $65. To re chrome my old fender was going to run between $150 to $200 so the postage was okay.

Once again thanks will keep u posted when I get the beast going.

[russell]

New Fuse Block

Have replaced the old fuse block with new, checked to make sure i still have power, all good. Cleaned up the earth contacts.
Jumped the solenoid and stater cranks so power is there.
recleaned all contacts.
Still no power to the Ignition switch. I'm thinking there could be a fault with the kill switch? On another thread they say to turn key on, check red/white wires from the switch to ground for voltage, then check red/white at the starter solenoid for voltage. My question is, if there is no power to the key switch will this make a difference?