Putting bike back together, measuring shim gaps for good measure, ran into huge gaps.

[WMarshy]

All 4 valves are bent. I had the exhaust valves professionally replaced, so that means I must have screwed up the timing pretty bad when I set everything back together. I'll be taking it into a shop to get the four intake valves replaced.

Can anybody recommend a shop north of Seattle? And a fair estimate to replace all four intake valves? The guy who did my two exhaust valves charged 50 dollars a valve, and I provided the parts.

Why not do it your self at this point? Only special tool you need is a spring compressor I believe. 4 valves are probably going to run you about 2 bills to start then another 2 for labor, ouch.

[GLoweVA]

Looks like Marshy got to respond before I finished typing this.

You can do this job yourself and save big bucks!

The valves can be found here:
http://www.newmotorcycleparts.com/mo...ts/valves.html
$18 each (near the bottom of the page)

I got one from them 3 years ago and it was perfect.

You're going to have to take the head off anyway to take it to the shop, so all you really need is a spring compressor.
I used a big C clamp and a little homemade adapter to get the 2 keepers out.
Here's the tech tip:
http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35575

You can use just about anything you can dream up as the adapter tool to get around the valve stem.

You may want to get a lapping tool (harbor freight or any auto store)
It's basically a stick with a suction cup on the end. Then you can rotate the valve in the seat and make sure that it fully seats 360 degrees around the circumference.

Put the clamp back on, use a little magnet or some forceps or small needle nose and put the keepers back in, let off the clamp and bam! DONE, 3 left to go.

Once you're done, (as you have already found out) be careful and meticulous when putting the cams back in. Make sure the dots are lined up as close as they can be before you start tightening down on the cam caps.
You may even be able to slightly rotate the cam as you're tightening the caps down to keep the cam lined up.

[DGXSER]

For the valve removal, I use a large C-clamp and a PVC pipe end cap with a hole/window cut out of it to reach in and get the keepers with a magnet. I do not have a pic handy.

[IanDMacDonald]

Whoa! That's kinda expensive! Definitely find another machine shop that specializes in cylinder head work. I paid $150 for install of four valves, grinding, lash, etc.

[trbig]

You may want to get a lapping tool (harbor freight or any auto store)
It's basically a stick with a suction cup on the end. Then you can rotate the valve in the seat and make sure that it fully seats 360 degrees around the circumference.

Just a length of fuel line stuck onto the valve stem and some valve lapping compound, found at just about any auto parts store will work. It doesn't take much. Just look for the new shiny surface hopefully right in the middle of the valve face. It's easy to go overboard on this, so just simple twisting with the fuel line and your fingers will do. NO POWER TOOLS SUCH AS A DRILL! And then be sure to remove any trace of lapping compound. You don't want that stuff going into your cylinders.