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  • front calipers

    I took the front calipers off to remove the 110/90 front tire on my SH, now the washers don't seem to fit, ( doing something wrong ? ). Can't seem to find pics of how these washers should be placed.

    Please, if anyone can help ? Thank You ! Done };~)
    76 XS650 C ROADSTER
    80 XS650 G Special II
    https://ibb.co/album/icbGgF
    80 XS 1100 SG
    81 XS 1100LH/SH DARKHORSE
    https://tinyurl.com/k6nzvtw
    AKA; Don'e, UD, Unca Don'e

  • #2
    Which washers?

    Marty (in Mississippi)
    XS1100SG
    XS650SK
    XS650SH
    XS650G
    XS6502F
    XS650E

    Comment


    • #3
      front calipers

      Hi Marty !


      I looked there first before asking.
      Guess it's that they show the right caliper disassembled, I was working on the left ?
      But it's #14, 24, 25, I'll go look again and if need be pull the caliper on the LH to see the placement.

      Thanks !!!!! Done };~)
      76 XS650 C ROADSTER
      80 XS650 G Special II
      https://ibb.co/album/icbGgF
      80 XS 1100 SG
      81 XS 1100LH/SH DARKHORSE
      https://tinyurl.com/k6nzvtw
      AKA; Don'e, UD, Unca Don'e

      Comment


      • #4
        Only fits one way if you try putting bolt rubber washer and large and small washer together. DUH
        Now on to the back wheel, wheel see ?
        76 XS650 C ROADSTER
        80 XS650 G Special II
        https://ibb.co/album/icbGgF
        80 XS 1100 SG
        81 XS 1100LH/SH DARKHORSE
        https://tinyurl.com/k6nzvtw
        AKA; Don'e, UD, Unca Don'e

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by donebysunday View Post
          I took the front calipers off to remove the 110/90 front tire on my SH, now the washers don't seem to fit, ( doing something wrong ? ). Can't seem to find pics of how these washers should be placed.
          Please, if anyone can help ? Thank You ! Done };~)
          Hi Done,
          you weren't the only one at the confusion factory.
          What I do to avoid over-stressing my puzzler is leave the calipers in place and pull the front fender (best use a ratcheting box-end)
          Then you can remove the axle, drop the wheel out of the brake pads and then rotate the fork sliders to move the calipers out of the way.
          Fred Hill, S'toon
          XS11SG with Spirit of America sidecar
          "The Flying Pumpkin"

          Comment


          • #6
            Thank You Papa Fred !

            The rear caliper would not compress until I released the bleeder, ( putting new pads in). So by doing this I was able to install the new rear pads and all works fine but I should be able the compress the puck into the MC, YES ?
            Thanks Done };~)
            76 XS650 C ROADSTER
            80 XS650 G Special II
            https://ibb.co/album/icbGgF
            80 XS 1100 SG
            81 XS 1100LH/SH DARKHORSE
            https://tinyurl.com/k6nzvtw
            AKA; Don'e, UD, Unca Don'e

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by donebysunday View Post
              The rear caliper would not compress until I released the bleeder, ( putting new pads in). So by doing this I was able to install the new rear pads and all works fine but I should be able the compress the puck into the MC, YES ?
              Thanks Done };~)
              Either I'm reading this wrong, or some of the terms used by you might be incorrect. Puck? You mean the piston? And Master Cylinder? You mean the caliper? With the master cylinder cap on, you should be able to compress that piston with your fingers and push it back in. If they're old (duh), with some channelocks and a rag. If it's not going in, and you open up that bleeder, you may inadvertently let air in. Doesn't hurt to pull that piston and check for wear.
              1979 XS1100F
              2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by IanDMacDonald View Post
                Either I'm reading this wrong, or some of the terms used by you might be incorrect. Puck? You mean the piston? And Master Cylinder? You mean the caliper? With the master cylinder cap on, you should be able to compress that piston with your fingers and push it back in. If they're old (duh), with some channelocks and a rag. If it's not going in, and you open up that bleeder, you may inadvertently let air in. Doesn't hurt to pull that piston and check for wear.
                Thank You !

                Correction/
                The rear caliper piston would not compress until I opened the bleeder,
                ( putting new pads in). So by doing this I was able to install the new rear pads and all works fine but I should be able to compress the piston into the caliper pushing the fluid back to the MC, YES ? Used a big 12" C clamp and maple block but it would not move at all. Oh and the caliper looks like new or fresh rebuild.
                Pedal seems nice and firm.
                Thanks Done };~)
                76 XS650 C ROADSTER
                80 XS650 G Special II
                https://ibb.co/album/icbGgF
                80 XS 1100 SG
                81 XS 1100LH/SH DARKHORSE
                https://tinyurl.com/k6nzvtw
                AKA; Don'e, UD, Unca Don'e

                Comment


                • #9
                  The fact that it works and works well is all that matters now, lol. Ideally, yes, it should push in without having to crack the bleeder screw. However, if you had to, no harm done. This is the first bike I have without speed bleeders.
                  1979 XS1100F
                  2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by donebysunday View Post
                    Thank You !

                    Correction/
                    The rear caliper piston would not compress until I opened the bleeder,
                    ( putting new pads in). So by doing this I was able to install the new rear pads and all works fine but I should be able to compress the piston into the caliper pushing the fluid back to the MC, YES ? Used a big 12" C clamp and maple block but it would not move at all. Oh and the caliper looks like new or fresh rebuild.
                    Pedal seems nice and firm.
                    Thanks Done };~)
                    I would be concerned about the spooge-hole being clogged. You should be able to push the cylinder back into the caliper. Of course it only goes so far.
                    Skids (Sid Hansen)

                    Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by skids View Post
                      I would be concerned about the spooge-hole being clogged. You should be able to push the cylinder back into the caliper. Of course it only goes so far.
                      Funny it works, or seems too. Was able to push the piston in about 1/8" by opening the bleeder. Push on the pedal locks up the wheel, let up on the pedal and the wheel turns. Though still have to put the clutch back in but that will be another thread.
                      76 XS650 C ROADSTER
                      80 XS650 G Special II
                      https://ibb.co/album/icbGgF
                      80 XS 1100 SG
                      81 XS 1100LH/SH DARKHORSE
                      https://tinyurl.com/k6nzvtw
                      AKA; Don'e, UD, Unca Don'e

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Hey Done,

                        I'm with Skids on this one. The Spooge Hole is the release opening that allows the brake fluid to circulate back into the mastercylinder once the brake pedal is released. Not being able to compress the caliper back into the caliper housing is an indication that the spooge hole is clogged, and that you are at risk of developing a lock up of the rear wheel. The piston can not adequately release pressure against the rotor when the pedal is released, this causes brake drag, which heats up the pads, caliper piston and the fluid behind it causing it to expand, which further increases its pressure against the rotor eventually ending in a locked up rear wheel where once again you will need to release the bleeder valve to release the pressure so that the rear wheel will be able to turn again!

                        Clean the spooge hole in the MC....just a suggestion!

                        T.C.
                        T. C. Gresham
                        81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
                        79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
                        History shows again and again,
                        How nature points out the folly of men!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by TopCatGr58 View Post
                          Hey Done,

                          I'm with Skids on this one. The Spooge Hole is the release opening that allows the brake fluid to circulate back into the mastercylinder once the brake pedal is released. Not being able to compress the caliper back into the caliper housing is an indication that the spooge hole is clogged, and that you are at risk of developing a lock up of the rear wheel. The piston can not adequately release pressure against the rotor when the pedal is released, this causes brake drag, which heats up the pads, caliper piston and the fluid behind it causing it to expand, which further increases its pressure against the rotor eventually ending in a locked up rear wheel where once again you will need to release the bleeder valve to release the pressure so that the rear wheel will be able to turn again!

                          Clean the spooge hole in the MC....just a suggestion!

                          T.C.
                          Agreed, will do.
                          Just can't figure with all the pressure from that 12" C clamp that it would not push whatever is in that spooge out ?
                          Thanks Guys !!!!!
                          As I always say ask here if you have ANY question about some strange thing that's going on !
                          Done };~)
                          76 XS650 C ROADSTER
                          80 XS650 G Special II
                          https://ibb.co/album/icbGgF
                          80 XS 1100 SG
                          81 XS 1100LH/SH DARKHORSE
                          https://tinyurl.com/k6nzvtw
                          AKA; Don'e, UD, Unca Don'e

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Have you tried taking it off the rotor and spraying it with some lub, then cleaning the piston, I myself had some nasty build up on mine loads of drag.
                            79 XS 1100 SF, Niagara Falls, New York 14305

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                            • #15
                              I'm sorry , piston's.
                              79 XS 1100 SF, Niagara Falls, New York 14305

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