If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
1977 Ironhead - custom build
Hot engine, custom frame, KZ front and rear, high torque starter, alternator conversion, Progressive shocks, Thunderheart wiring, Dyna ignition, oil cooler, Dakota Digital instruments, etc.
Sold all my XS's to Eastcoaster but still love to keep up with you guys. This is the best cycle forum on the web.
Lol, it sounds smooth a few feet away. I guess I over-thought this whole thing. The phone I used has dual microphones, so it picks up noise my ears actually don't hear.
1979 XS1100F
2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.
That slapping sound is definitely your cam chain slapping around a bit. I just installed a new cam chain tensioner gasket and after properly setting the chain tensioner my slapping sounds went away. From what I understand, its a good idea to reset that cam chain tensioner if it hasn't been done for a long time since that chain will stretch over the years (refer to the last part of "head removal and assembly" in the manual for how to do this, it normally takes taking the valve cover off). As far as the gurgling sound is concerned, have to re-tightened your exhaust flanges as of late? I know with mine I have to torque them down occasionally because vibrations/heating and cooling tend to have them work their way out (since I don't know of any lock-tite that can withstand those temperature without burning).
For the newbies...don't remove your valve cover to reset the cam chain tensioner! To clarify, YES, to check stretch you have to remove the cover, but not for setting cam chain tension.
For the newbies...don't remove your valve cover to reset the cam chain tensioner! To clarify, YES, to check stretch you have to remove the cover, but not for setting cam chain tension.
Depends on what you're calling "Reset". I used to remove the cam chain adjuster, push the plunger in all the way and lock it, re-install the tensioner, unlock it and let it slap the chain, then tighten. It resulted in bent valves once when all the chain slack went to the bottom of the motor.
If removing the adjuster, it is a good idea to remove the valve cover and pull the chain slack up to the top of the motor by advancing the exhaust cam as you let off tension. When you re-install the tensioner, it will pull the slack and cam back into place. But if just putting the timing on "C", loosening the adjuster set screw, then re-tightening.. You are correct. No need to remove valve cover for that.
Try your hardest to be the kind of person your dog thinks you are.
You can live to be 100, as long as you give up everything that would make you want to live to be 100!
Current bikes:
'06 Suzuki DR650
*'82 XJ1100 with the 1179 kit. "Mad Maxim"
'82 XJ1100 Completely stock fixer-upper
'82 XJ1100 Bagger fixer-upper
'82 XJ1100 Motor/frame and lots of boxes of parts
'82 XJ1100 Parts bike
'81 XS1100 Special
'81 YZ250
'80 XS850 Special
'80 XR100
*Crashed/Totalled, still own
Comment