Clear Coating Gas Tank

[BillyRok]

I painted my gas tank last weekend. Went to Napa and looked through their book of paint colors and matched up the New Ruby Red for an '82 XJ as close as I could (took a side cover for comparison). They put the paint into a couple of spray cans for me and things went pretty well. Had to be patient, thoroughly clean the tank, used self etching primer, and shot multiple coats on tank and side covers.

It looks good coverage wise, but has a rough "texture" to it, not really orange peel. I've seen threads about wet sanding with 320 grit and then clear coating (I bought the 2 part clear in a spray can, 24 hr shelf life once activated). Dumb question perhaps but how exactly do I wet sand? Do I need to wrap the paper around a sanding block or just do it by hand? And what about cleaning and prepping afterward before the clear coat? Hate to mess things up now so close to the end.

Will someone steer me in the right direction please?

[bikerphil]

I usually start with 600 and work my way up to 1500/2000. Careful not to take too much paint off too quickly, rattle cans spray thin from the get go, also put a drop of dish soap in the water bucket for lubrication. If you have access to a spray gun and compressor, apply clearcoat with that, again, rattle can spray a very thin clear coat and probably won't last. Repeat sanding with the clear coat if necessary and buff with compound as a final step. JMHO

[IanDMacDonald]

I read a great article on rattle can jobs. One of the tips given was to spray the clear while the finish coat was still tacky. you should have three to five coats of finish on, and have wet sanded from 600 upto 2000. Process is repeated with clear coat. I used the 2K urethane. I found that buying all of that sandpaper is not cheap! The results were worth it though!

[donebysunday]

I read a great article on rattle can jobs. One of the tips given was to spray the clear while the finish coat was still tacky. you should have three to five coats of finish on, and have wet sanded from 600 upto 2000. Process is repeated with clear coat. I used the 2K urethane. I found that buying all of that sandpaper is not cheap! The results were worth it though!

+1 Get er Done };~)

[DGXSER]

one more note, every mfg directions I have seen state after sanding the base coat, to put a final coat of base on before clearing.

If ti is just slightly rough looking, not as bad as an orange peel effect, you may be just fine clearing over it as is. Put several coats of clear on.

If you using a good 2k clear coat, that should be sanded down and then buffed. If your using the standard rattle can clear, only buff that, no sanding.

I am by no means a professional painter, just telling you what I have read, seen and experienced.

[BA80]

Just a light sanding of the color coat is fine. If your using the 2K clear wait at least 45 minutes between coats and use the whole can.

I went to the dollar store and got a 16" x 20" plastic tub for the wet sanding for like $5. Put a couple inches of water in the bottom and sanded right in there.

You have to get wet or dry sandpaper and it is kinda pricey. I used 400 to smooth out the orange peel then 600> 1500> 2000> and 3000 shines it up pretty good. Finished up with a little rubbing compound and then a couple coats of wax.

You should wait a week in between the color coat and clear and then at least 3 - 4 days before sanding the clear.

[IanDMacDonald]

You should wait a week in between the color coat and clear and then at least 3 - 4 days before sanding the clear.

I left this point out. The article I read mentioned letting the paint cure a week in-between coats. If I abided by that, it would have been a 4-6 week paint job, lol. I cheated, and it still turned-out great. However, doing it all over again, I would definitely follow Greg's advice on allowing the paint to cure between color and clear, despite the advice to throw clear on while the color is still wet.

[donebysunday]

I left this point out. The article I read mentioned letting the paint cure a week in-between coats. If I abided by that, it would have been a 4-6 week paint job, lol. I cheated, and it still turned-out great. However, doing it all over again, I would definitely follow Greg's advice on allowing the paint to cure between color and clear, despite the advice to throw clear on while the color is still wet.

I was visiting a buddy at his body shop, there was this red Buick sitting right next to the door, beautiful except for the hood, looked like a turtle shell peeling the top coat off. I asked what happened to it, almost looked like a engine fire but the fender were fine, he said some other body shop had repainted the hood and waited to long to clear coat it and that's why the clear was peeling. I never asked how long ?
I worked in a body shop while in high school after a couple days the boss would tell me to rinse the paint on that car with cold water to help cure the paint. We were not using clear coats at that time, most cars being painted were solid colors, no candies or flakes.

[clcorbin]

I didn't see if this was stated, but yes, you absolutely MUST use a proper sanding block for this. Your fingers will just put shallow grooves and channels in the paint and will not get it flat. Once it is polished, you WILL see them.

[donebysunday]

Be careful with that sanding block it will take the paint of the curves and edges faster than you can say OH S**T. I like to cut the sand paper into 4 about 3" wide strips and fold in three, works like a sanding block but allows shaping to the curves and edges. The block works great on flats and areas that you have filled and want to smooth before the next primer coat. But go across the curves not follow them as much as possible, in some cases you have no choice but to follow the curves/rounds/edges, the block will take off the high spots fast if there are any under the paint leaving the primer showing through.

[fredintoon]

I didn't see if this was stated, but yes, you absolutely MUST use a proper sanding block for this. Your fingers will just put shallow grooves and channels in the paint and will not get it flat. Once it is polished, you WILL see them.

Hi Clint,
the paper has to conform to the tank's three dimensionally curved surface or it'll cut into the primer real quick. A rubber sanding block is too rigid and will stop the paper from conforming properly.
Hold the paper in your hand. Use a whole sheet and fold it into four, keep flipping the folds as the paper wears dull.
#400 is the coarsest I'd use, better to start with #600 and switch to finer. Keep the paper wet with warm water with a squirt of dish soap in it.

[BA80]

+1 on the not using a sanding block Fred. Square pegs will never fit a round hole.....so to speak.

The 400 works good to knock down the goose pimples orange peel produces. The 2K clear is REALLY hard and it does orange peel no matter how careful you are.

[jwhughes3]

Get a regular square sponge like for dishes to wrap the sandpaper around. Spreads pressure but flexes on curves. I have had to repaint too many times and learned.

John

[DGXSER]

What I have used successfully is a small 3M sanding pad, it is soft and made of a spongy rubber. I got mine at an O'Reilly's, along with a small squeegee. It s soft enough to conform to the shape of the metal, but it is a solid shape that applies even pressure over its surface.

Sanding Pad

[skids]

I didn't see if this was stated, but yes, you absolutely MUST use a proper sanding block for this. Your fingers will just put shallow grooves and channels in the paint and will not get it flat. Once it is polished, you WILL see them.

Harbour Freight sell wet and dry sand paper. Do NOT use it. The grit numbers are not right and grit comes right off the paper. Get good stuff. 3M is good