Turn signals wont flash when ideling

[Punisher]

The guy I got my bike from had converted the turn signals to LEDs. He used a ton of connectors and questionable solder joins in the process. The signals would not flash at idle so I decided to remove the leds, connectors, and solder joints in the hopes of resolving the problem. He also added a custom Halogen headlight and speedo that work and look cool so I decided to leave them. I cleaned up the wiring on these as well. I have replaced the LEDs with incandescent bulbs and replaced the Regulator as well. The turn signals will flash at idle sometimes and sometimes not. I am thinking that the Halogen headlight may be loading the system to the point that the voltage at the turn signal flasher unit is above threshold. I dont want to change the headlight because it works well. If someone has any known good voltage readings at the flasher unit I would appreciate the readings. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[BA80]

What have you got the idle set at? It should be 1000 to 1200.

Do you have the OEM flasher or an aftermarket?

[Diskman01]

I replaced my mechanical flasher years ago with a electronic one. I lost my cancelling blinkers, but I can make them work again with it if I want to fiddle with some circuitry. I simply made a harness that plugged into my old flasher plug and adapted the electronic one with a small harness. That way, if I ever want to go back to stock, I simply remove my adapter and shove the old flasher in. Of course I need to find all the original bulbs.. lol.. 1978 E.

Might want to go that route if you are running LEDs. The electronic flashers don't care what you throw at them as far as bulb load.

I cant believe that NO stores where I live stock 1156 and 1157 in LED.

[MPittma100]

Flasher

I once repaired this problem by doing something that I just knew would not work - but, in fact, it did work. The bike was a 1979SF (Special) and it had the OEM mechanical type flasher. It had the same problem - no flashing at idle.

Don't know if this will fix yours or not, but is worth a try if you have the OEM flasher. I took the metal cover off of the flasher by carefully bending the tabs that hold it to the base. Inside you will see a set of points that look similar to ignition points. I took a small (ignition) thin file and lightly filed (cleaned) the two contacts. You must put the cover back on before it will work. After doing so, the flashers worked perfectly at idle.

Give it a shot and see.

MP

[ccogswel]

Another thing you may want to check is your grounds. My bike idles at 800 rpm and my flashers work. I went through and cleaned all my grounds for my lights and signals and made sure I had tight connections. Made a world of difference.
Good Luck!

[Punisher]

intermittent flashers

Cleaning the flasher internal connectors makes perfect sense I will give it a try. I dont have a tach so dont really know what the idle is set at. I would like to get an electronic flasher but dont know where to get one or what type to use. The connection setup would also be helpful. Any help in that regard would be appreciated. If you do decide to use LEDs makes sure that you locate the ballast resistors in a place where they can get plenty of cooling. They get hot. Just FYI.

[MPittma100]

Flasher

Try the repair to the OEM flasher first. If you replace it, signals will work, but you will loose auto-cancel feature.

MP

[TopCatGr58]

Hey there,

Wow...another red flag in what you said. Ballast resistors! The XS11's have a fairly weak charging system, and can barely generate enough juice to keep the bike running at idle, and can even discharge the battery if just let to idle for a while!

One of the main reasons why folks install LEDS for their turn signals as well as the tail/brake lights is to cut down on the power load/drain which can then free up some watts/amps for other accessories. HOWEVER, it sounds like the PO installed inline resistors to increase the power LOAD so that the OEM flasher would continue to work....since it's a THERMAL unit, and needs to see ~27 watts on each turn signal stalk to get the flasher to actuate. But putting the load resistors inline just defeats the whole purpose of using LEDs.

You stated you went back to regular incadescent bulbs, and so the inline resistors are NOT required! And IF you decide to go back to LEDs, just install an electronic flasher....they can be gotten at most auto parts stores....2 PRONG....and has been stated, this will cause you to loose your autocancel feature UNLESS you follow the the info in the tech tips to make your own modded circuit with the LED flasher. The 2 prong flasher will only plug in 1 of 2 ways in the socket, 1 way won't work, the other will.

T.C.

Cleaning the flasher internal connectors makes perfect sense I will give it a try. I dont have a tach so dont really know what the idle is set at. I would like to get an electronic flasher but dont know where to get one or what type to use. The connection setup would also be helpful. Any help in that regard would be appreciated. If you do decide to use LEDs makes sure that you locate the ballast resistors in a place where they can get plenty of cooling. They get hot. Just FYI.

[MPittma100]

Geezer

The Geezer regulator/rectifier upgrade is something to consider as well. Provides a better voltage curve than the stock unit. Can find more info in the search tab if interested.

MP