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  • #1

    Rear brake "sticking"

    Hello.

    I was going down a hill today, 1981 xs 1100 H. As I prepared to brake my rear brake wouldn't work. I tried multiple times. Used the front one instead.

    Got home and realized my brake light is engaged, even though the brakes are not being compressed. Tried wiggling the rear brake pedal (seared the skin off my thumb in the process). Break light still stays on. Check fuses, all good.

    I went for a little ride to re check rear brake. I can feel it clamped as I lose speed pretty fast after letting off throttle. But they work now when I use them (earlier they didn't).

    It's been about 3k miles since I had the mechanic do a change pads/flush/rebuild calipers...fork oil and tires.

    What should I be looking for? Any idea's on where I should start?

    Thanks!
    81 XS11 Tourer
    Tags: None
  • #2
    my 2cents worth

    light engaged?

    hmm, the pedal stuck down?

    there is an adjuster bolt under the pedal, back that off a little and see if it frees up, but there is most likely a grain of sand plugging you rear master cylinder "spooge hole"/return port.

    take the 2 bolts out that hold the MC in place then tip it out so you can see
    down inside... i can't remember if you have to take the tank off to see the small port on that..? may be covered by plastic..

    check to see if the small hole is clear, very small wire is used to clear the port. the bristle out of a wire brush will work. push it through to clean out the hole then bleed the rear brake to flush system out again.

    good luck
    1979 XS1100SF Special.78 E motor/carbs, Jardine 4-2 exhaust, XS Green coils, Corbin seat, S.S. Brake lines, Hard cases, Heated grips.

    2012 FJR1300 Gen 2. Heli bar risers, R-gaza crash bars, mccruise cruise control.

    (2)2008 WR250R. Because kids outgrew others.

    2007 Suzuki V-Strom 1000. (Just added 2024) pre-crashed.

    1975 Kawasaki S1 250. My first bike. Still have it. NO I'm not selling it!!

    Most bike problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

    Comment

    • #3
      my 2cents worth

      light engaged?

      hmm, the pedal stuck down?

      there is an adjuster bolt under the pedal, back that off a little and see if it frees up, but there is most likely a grain of sand plugging you rear master cylinder "spooge hole"/return port.

      take the 2 bolts out that hold the MC in place then tip it out so you can see
      down inside... i can't remember if you have to take the tank off to see the small port on that..? may be covered by plastic..

      check to see if the small hole is clear, very small wire is used to clear the port. the bristle out of a wire brush will work. push it through to clean out the hole then bleed the rear brake to flush system out again.

      good luck
      1979 XS1100SF Special.78 E motor/carbs, Jardine 4-2 exhaust, XS Green coils, Corbin seat, S.S. Brake lines, Hard cases, Heated grips.

      2012 FJR1300 Gen 2. Heli bar risers, R-gaza crash bars, mccruise cruise control.

      (2)2008 WR250R. Because kids outgrew others.

      2007 Suzuki V-Strom 1000. (Just added 2024) pre-crashed.

      1975 Kawasaki S1 250. My first bike. Still have it. NO I'm not selling it!!

      Most bike problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

      Comment

      • #4
        The splined shaft that the pedal attaches to runs through a tube in the frame. Those tend to get rusty and sticky over time especially if the bike sat for any length of time.

        It needs to be disassembled, cleaned and fresh grease put in there. You might have to drive it out with a hammer if it's stuck that bad. There is a big spring, the return spring, back in there. Pay attention to how it goes when you take it apart.
        Greg

        Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

        ― Albert Einstein

        80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

        The list changes.

        Comment

        • #5
          The brake will stay engaged if the fluid can not return. Here is that return port shown with a wire stuck in it.


          Here is what you need to do:
          Brakes not releasing?
          Check your Master Cylinder "Spooge Holes"
          Marty (in Mississippi)
          XS1100SG
          XS650SK
          XS650SH
          XS650G
          XS6502F
          XS650E

          Comment

          • #6
            He said the pedal was staying down and the brake light is staying on. Brakes not engaged.
            Greg

            Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

            ― Albert Einstein

            80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

            The list changes.

            Comment

            • #7
              Thanks guys.

              I had searched but wasn't sure if it pre-tained to me. I got called into work early this am and took the bike (shouldn't have but didn't feel like driving the diesel at 12mpg -60mi round trip).

              The rear brake barely engages...almost non existent. There is no more gripping feeling on the brakes or fast deceleration. But the break light is still engaged.

              I tried taking off the pedal...well did nothing. Tomorrow I think I'll tackle everything, spooge hole and running that rod thingy out.

              Thanks



              I have been trying to wait to do any mods till November. But I don't think my bike will last that long. (now the brakes, went from 37mpg to 30mpg, leaky #1 carb or petecocks, very rough starts or cutting out after long periods of one high speed/throttle...think i have a stuck float, hole in muffler, and headlight rarely works except at high rpm starts). But I think I will do these brakes then maybe tackle headlight and wait for the other stuff...
              81 XS11 Tourer

              Comment

              • #8
                Brownbear1000

                Originally posted by RVR PIR8 View Post
                Hello.

                I was going down a hill today, 1981 xs 1100 H. As I prepared to brake my rear brake wouldn't work. I tried multiple times. Used the front one instead.

                Got home and realized my brake light is engaged, even though the brakes are not being compressed. Tried wiggling the rear brake pedal (seared the skin off my thumb in the process). Break light still stays on. Check fuses, all good.

                I went for a little ride to re check rear brake. I can feel it clamped as I lose speed pretty fast after letting off throttle. But they work now when I use them (earlier they didn't).

                It's been about 3k miles since I had the mechanic do a change pads/flush/rebuild calipers...fork oil and tires.

                What should I be looking for? Any idea's on where I should start?

                Thanks!


                It Happened to me and I Replace the Brake fluid and it was ok agen try
                That it worked for me.

                Comment

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