Warming The Bike Up From Cold Start

[skids]

I am just like DG. First start in the morning is full choke for about 30 sec, then 1/2 for about 30 sec to a minute, then the Scorpion is ready to go.

In the afternoon, I can do a 1/2 choke for about 15-20 sec, and then choke off, and she is ready.

Ditto on all three of my xs11s.

[bikerphil]

I start the engine with the enricher either full or half, then after about 5 sec, hold the throttle open slightly and shut the enricher off, then turn thre throttle lock to hold it at the desired RPM until ready to roll.

[KA1J]

Hey Gary- Timing was set by the machine shop that did my cylinder head work (I guess I should check that soon). Timing (in my opinion) is off. I have plans of buying an unaltered advance from a '78 and re-attaching the vacuum pod.

I can't speak intelligently about bikes other than the XJ11 & even that is subject to critique... So the 78 is outside my knowledge base. I do understand the 78 was the most kick ass of all the XS11/XJ11's out there. The timing situation is different on the 78 than on the 82 XJ11.

Gary

[Rasputin]

I do agree that conditions like temp or weather do affect the starting of these bikes. Up here may be different than other areas but I like to set mine so that I get the following results.
Needs enrichment to start (at any temp) unless the bike is already warmed up. Full choke until idle is over 2000 rpm's or more. Then half choke it, rpm will drop down to less than 1500 rpm. Leave it at half choke until it reaches 2500 rpm then slide the choke off. Ready to ride most times (but may require half choke for the first block although unlikely).
If the entire carb is working correctly then you will get better mileage and performance by far and this works for me.

[KA1J]

I do agree that conditions like temp or weather do affect the starting of these bikes. Up here may be different than other areas but I like to set mine so that I get the following results.
Needs enrichment to start (at any temp) unless the bike is already warmed up. Full choke until idle is over 2000 rpm's or more. Then half choke it, rpm will drop down to less than 1500 rpm. Leave it at half choke until it reaches 2500 rpm then slide the choke off. Ready to ride most times (but may require half choke for the first block although unlikely).
If the entire carb is working correctly then you will get better mileage and performance by far and this works for me.

It seems to be the same for me though we're at different latitudes. Now I have the carbs as virgin, with no mods but rebuilt as-new, I need to use the enrichment to start elegantly and before I made them "as new" I didn't need to use enrichment at all... Having properly adjusted carbs will require using the enrichment circuit.

YMMV...

Gary

[MarkD]

I agree that an enriched (choked) xs at startup would be ideal. A minute at 2000 rpm, then go to 1/2 choke for a bit while going down the block. That's how my sold one warmed up. I need to nurse the throttle at startup, or it stalls. If I choke it, it won't start. After warmed up, choke kills it. Idle circuit too rich makes sense, but my plugs are tan. ??

[Bonz]

I have always been of the mind set to start the bike when I am sitting on the bike ready to ride. Whatever choke it takes based on temperature to start and idle slightly fast, give a few moments for my peace of mind to let the oil circulate, then ride away. Once moving, I push in the choke and keep it under a light load for a mile or two.

Wastes my gas to let the bike sit and idle at higher rpm when it could be taking me through the first mile or two of riding at an easy pace.

Startup is where engine wear occurs, not after the oil is up and moving around the engine if a proper grade of oil is being used for the temperature at hand and changed at the proper interval.

Now, if a bike won't ride away until it's been through multiple minutes of warm up and two levels of choke, with a hail Mary thrown in, it's adjusted way lean, carbs need work or freaking cold out!

[Courtney]

I start mine with full choke, and she fires right up, but sputters and dies within 5 seconds unless I feather the throttle off and on and "get past" that sputter. Then I switch to half choke and she will fast idle. I then take off and shut off the choke after a 100 yards. Don't know WHY it splutters and dies on full choke like that unless I roll the throttle off and on for a few seconds...... Runs fine after warm up, and idles like a trooper.

[Rasputin]

Startup is where engine wear occurs, not after the oil is up and moving around the engine if a proper grade of oil is being used for the temperature at hand and changed at the proper interval.

Ever given any thought to how much expansion and contraction an aluminum motor has to it? More wear than one cares to know occurs without proper warm up regardless of oil used and even with all the mumbo jumbo involved in a good start up procedure, it is worth more than the gas saved.

[Bonz]

Start up, oil light is off basically instantly. Give it a few moments to settle into an idle, Roll down driveway, snick into gear, keep light throttle for a half mile to the highway, accelerate leisurely without raging up through the gers, short shift keeping engine under light load and lower rpm and live happily ever after.

Even though the XS is a 35 year old bike, and the engine design is older than that by a few years, it is modern in terms of oiling capability and pumping ability.

Oil flow prevents wear and with engine tolerances being greatest when colder, once flow is established there is little reason to sit idle, as I feel it makes the rider feel all warm inside but doesn't appreciably change engine longevity outcome. Just don't be a doofus and rev the tits off it or hammer it out of the driveway. I hope the goes without saying...

I have friends with Harley's that spend all manner of time and ritual to start their bikes and warm up before they haul butt away from wherever we are, and their tranny is still cold since it is separate from engine oil in a Harley. Doesn't seem to hurt the tranny any.... And that is the worst case, so riding away prudently on our bikes once oil flow is established whether we want to say it or not, is not saving the wear guys think they are preventing. Startup is where the wear occurs, which is unavoidable.

Reality is, we don't as a whole ride when it is arctic frigid or below freezing, and as such are not faced with oil pumpability issues, which is back to where we started that most wear occurs at start up before oil flow is established.

[donebysunday]

Correct tune

Start up, oil light is off basically instantly. Give it a few moments to settle into an idle, Roll down driveway, snick into gear, keep light throttle for a half mile to the highway, accelerate leisurely without raging up through the gers, short shift keeping engine under light load and lower rpm and live happily ever after.

Even though the XS is a 35 year old bike, and the engine design is older than that by a few years, it is modern in terms of oiling capability and pumping ability.

Oil flow prevents wear and with engine tolerances being greatest when colder, once flow is established there is little reason to sit idle, as I feel it makes the rider feel all warm inside but doesn't appreciably change engine longevity outcome. Just don't be a doofus and rev the tits off it or hammer it out of the driveway. I hope the goes without saying...

I have friends with Harley's that spend all manner of time and ritual to start their bikes and warm up before they haul butt away from wherever we are, and their tranny is still cold since it is separate from engine oil in a Harley. Doesn't seem to hurt the tranny any.... And that is the worst case, so riding away prudently on our bikes once oil flow is established whether we want to say it or not, is not saving the wear guys think they are preventing. Startup is where the wear occurs, which is unavoidable.

Reality is, we don't as a whole ride when it is arctic frigid or below freezing, and as such are not faced with oil pumpability issues, which is back to where we started that most wear occurs at start up before oil flow is established.

I start in 1st gear, no choke ( in the 80°+ ) warm temps we've had here, blip it lightly a few times and it settles into a rough idle, shut it down. Start again in 1st with the gate open my LH is ready to go but I take it easy for a mile or so.
When it gets really cold, ( I'll ride in 20° F + ) I shall see, have not had that chance yet ?

Is there a sign here as to the tuning being right or not ? ?