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Middle gear oil replacement - XJ11

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  • Middle gear oil replacement - XJ11

    I was reading about the middle gear and read it needs to be filled with gear oil and I don't think I've ever changed the oil in the middle gear (I thought it was serviced by the engine oil). I've got some synthetic gear oil I used in the rear but I need to check the middle gear oil & find out what is what. I also have no idea how to check the level, I didn't get a tool for the rear when I got the bike. Is there a clear photo of where the drain plug is?

    Is there any issue to be expected with removing the plug (I have to find it) and once drained on the center stand, how much oil should I put back in it? I've heard about a drain plug on other XJ's that is supposed to be a bugger to get at and undo; Um... would that be this one?

    Thanks,

    Gary
    Last edited by KA1J; 08-19-2013, 12:27 AM.
    82 XJ1100 Maxim "hurricane"- DEKA EXT18L AGM battery , NGK BPR6EIX spark plugs, Green Dyna coils, Sylvania SilverStar Ultra H4 bulb, 139 dB Stebel Nautilus air horn, Home-made K&N air filter based on an original paper filter frame, new piston rings, Barnett Clutch Springs, SS braid/Teflon brake lines, TKAT fork brace, rebuilt calipers, master cylinders, new brakes, reupholstered seat, lotsa little things and so many answered questions here.

  • #2
    Dipstick

    http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=72

    That thread has dipstick measurements if you want to make one and a part number if you want to BUY one from the Dealer.

    John
    John is in an anonymous city with an Alamo (N29.519227,W-98.678980)

    Go ahead, click on the bikes - you know you want to...the electrons are ready.
    '81 XS1100H - "Enterprise"
    Bob Jones Custom Navy bike: Tkat brace, EBC floating rotors & SS lines, ROX pivot risers, Geezer rectifier, new 3H3 engine

    "Not all treasure is silver and gold"

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    • #3
      The middle drive drain plug is at the very back of the motor just in front of the rear mount. It's recessed up there, so yeah, it's a bit of a pain, but nothing big. The main problem is that it will drain right onto your center stand, and that gear oil reeks. And yes, use full synthetic in the middle and final drives.
      Try your hardest to be the kind of person your dog thinks you are.

      You can live to be 100, as long as you give up everything that would make you want to live to be 100!

      Current bikes:
      '06 Suzuki DR650
      *'82 XJ1100 with the 1179 kit. "Mad Maxim"
      '82 XJ1100 Completely stock fixer-upper
      '82 XJ1100 Bagger fixer-upper
      '82 XJ1100 Motor/frame and lots of boxes of parts
      '82 XJ1100 Parts bike
      '81 XS1100 Special
      '81 YZ250
      '80 XS850 Special
      '80 XR100
      *Crashed/Totalled, still own

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      • #4
        Do yourself a favor and make sure you can get the filler plug out before you drain the old fluid. These can be trickey to get out. DAMHIK...
        1979 XS110F, Stock
        1980 XS1100G, Mostly Stock, gifted to my son.
        2000 YZ 250, Sold
        2002 YZ125, Sold
        2009 Royal Star Venture
        '94 Pontiac Trans Am, 25th Anniversary, For Sale

        Ernie

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        • #5
          I think cbug has a sheet of printable dipsticks on his website along with all the manuals.
          Nathan
          KD9ARL

          μολὼν λαβέ

          1978 XS1100E
          K&N Filter
          #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
          OEM Exhaust
          ATK Fork Brace
          LED Dash lights
          Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

          Green Monster Coils
          SS Brake Lines
          Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

          In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

          Theodore Roosevelt

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          • #6
            Thanks for the replies. I went to the webpage JW linked to and cut out a piece of plastic the right depth. I was able to get both top & lower free without munging the allen & drained the oil. Brilliant location for the drain plug as mentioned... And yup, that oil stinks but good. Had some Mobil one gear oil around but it's hidden behind something so I used the last of the overpriced synthetic Royal Purple gear oil that I earlier put in my car's rear gear box.

            It's nicely filled to the upper level and otter be good for a long time to come. There wasn't a whole lot of metal particles attached to the magnet so that bodes well for the future. The oil was dark with a little bit of metalflake which is probably normal for such gearing. There will always be wear...

            Thanks for the help.

            Gary
            82 XJ1100 Maxim "hurricane"- DEKA EXT18L AGM battery , NGK BPR6EIX spark plugs, Green Dyna coils, Sylvania SilverStar Ultra H4 bulb, 139 dB Stebel Nautilus air horn, Home-made K&N air filter based on an original paper filter frame, new piston rings, Barnett Clutch Springs, SS braid/Teflon brake lines, TKAT fork brace, rebuilt calipers, master cylinders, new brakes, reupholstered seat, lotsa little things and so many answered questions here.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by KA1J View Post
              Thanks for the replies. I went to the webpage JW linked to and cut out a piece of plastic the right depth. I was able to get both top & lower free without munging the allen & drained the oil. Brilliant location for the drain plug as mentioned... And yup, that oil stinks but good. Had some Mobil one gear oil around but it's hidden behind something so I used the last of the overpriced synthetic Royal Purple gear oil that I earlier put in my car's rear gear box.

              It's nicely filled to the upper level and otter be good for a long time to come. There wasn't a whole lot of metal particles attached to the magnet so that bodes well for the future. The oil was dark with a little bit of metalflake which is probably normal for such gearing. There will always be wear...

              Thanks for the help.

              Gary
              If that RoyalePurple was NOT the 75w-140 variety, would reccomend changing to that, as that is the synthetic equivelent to the 80-90dino gear lube. The lighter vescosity synthetic does not 'cling' well and has a lower load 'pound out' spec. If that is still questioned, ask 3Phase bout the lighter vescosity Purple lube and what happens to final drive after a several thousand mile LD run.
              81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

              Comment


              • #8
                gear oil

                when I drained and refilled my mid drive unit I hadn't read anything about the best stuff to use in my '80 special so used royal purple 75-90 weight. i'm in Arizona, am I headed for trouble? do I need to drain and switch to the 75-140? recommendations please.. thanks

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                • #9
                  post script to previous reply:

                  I called Royal Purple and spoke to one of their technical guys. He did, in fact, confirm what Motoman said: the 75-140 gear lube would be best for long,very high speed riding. but he also said that their 75-90 would be more than sufficient for normal everyday use even here in Arizona(it's been over 110 degrees for weeks). he also recommended(I know, he's a salesman as well) their CycleMax 10w-40 full synthetic oil for the extreme conditions here in arizona. he claims that their oil is documented to run 10-20 degrees cooler in an air cooled engine than their competition and that it has much better sheer strength properties allowing it to run for 6-8,000 miles between changes. sounds good, but does anybody here have any experience with this oil?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by 650mark View Post
                    I called Royal Purple and spoke to one of their technical guys. He did, in fact, confirm what Motoman said: the 75-140 gear lube would be best for long,very high speed riding. but he also said that their 75-90 would be more than sufficient for normal everyday use even here in Arizona(it's been over 110 degrees for weeks). he also recommended(I know, he's a salesman as well) their CycleMax 10w-40 full synthetic oil for the extreme conditions here in arizona. he claims that their oil is documented to run 10-20 degrees cooler in an air cooled engine than their competition and that it has much better sheer strength properties allowing it to run for 6-8,000 miles between changes. sounds good, but does anybody here have any experience with this oil?
                    .......may be good lubricant, but these clutch disc will likely slip if used. BTW, 75-140syn. in the middle and final drive, no matter what state your runnin' in, and yes, the final DOES run substantually cooler with the 75w-140syn. as there is less friction. The 75w-90 SYNTHETIC is NOT sufficient lubricant where equivelant weight dino is called for, in any differential application.
                    81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Which Oil?

                      If all else fails, put in there the petroleum based gear oil that Yamaha recommends? Synthetic oils are over priced and may also be over rated.

                      MP
                      1981 XS1100H Venturer
                      K&N Air Filter
                      ACCT
                      Custom Paint by Deitz
                      Geezer Rectifier/Regulator
                      Chacal Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines
                      Chrome Front Rotor & Caliper Covers
                      Stebel Nautilus Horn
                      EBC Front Rotors
                      Limie Accent Moves On In 2015

                      Mike

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                      • #12
                        Royal Purple? Royal Purple. Royal Purple!

                        650mark,

                        Sorry about ripping off Steve Martin's "Cleaning woman!" bit. I put some of that Royal Purple 75W140 in Columbo's middle drive a little less than 6,000 miles ago. When I changed it last month before the Cali-rally it was dark and had gray ooze and sparklies in it just like the '750 FD that I killed/toasted during the Durango rally out in Colorado.

                        I'm beyond angry about it, and not just because I broke the windshield while I was draining the oil. I do have a few more good spare middle drives but this one was special. I was the best one that I had and when I swapped it in before Durango from my XJ11 it only had 14,000 miles on it.

                        After seeing the crud I flushed it with mineral spirits and turned the rear wheel to work the gears and bearings, then let it sit and drain again. I refilled it with some inexpensive 85W90 Wally World brand dino gear oil, then rode for while to get the oil hot. When I got home and drained the oil it was clean so at that time I refilled it with Redline gear oil.

                        I know that a sample of two isn't statistically valid but it's more than enough for me. I don't care what the salesman says, I'll run barefoot on hot tarmac in Phoenix in July during a dust storm to squeeze the oil out of a dozen dead roadkill armadillos before I'll use Royal Purple again.


                        For what it's worth I'm re-thinking root cause of death for the '750 final drive too. Failed XS750 Final Drive (Images and video link)

                        .
                        -- Scott
                        _____

                        2004 ST1300A: No name... yet
                        1982 XJ1100J: "Baby" SS Brakes, '850 FD, ACCT
                        1980 XS1100G: "Columbo" SS Brakes, '850 FD, ACCT
                        1979 XS1100SF: "Bush" W.I.P.
                        1979 XS1100F: parts
                        2018 Heritage Softail Classic 117 FLHCS SE: "Nanuk" It's DEAD, it's not just resting. It is an EX cycle.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Strange. I FINALLY changed the middle gear oil after about 70,000 miles... It came out so clean and clear I thought something was wrong. I did use Royal Purple gear lube, but I don't remember if it was the 90 or the 145 oil. I DO know that after 15,000 miles, I checked the lube level last weekend and the oil looked like it just came out of the bottle (clear, with the purple tint). Maybe I got lucky and got a mid drive that was set up perfectly from the factory...
                          -- Clint
                          1979 XS1100F - bought for $500 in 1989

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            What a bummer!

                            70,000 miles with Royal Purple in the middle drive! It looks like it's armaladillios at 'noon for me then because I won't use Royal Purple.

                            Yamaha XS1100 FSM Page 2-2 Lubrication Intervals:
                            Middle/Final gear oil: Replace (Page 2-12)
                            Initial @ 400 km (250 mi)
                            Thereafter @ 9,600 km (6,000 mi)

                            I used Royal Purple 75w140 one time and it turned dark and ate metal. The gears in the XJ11's middle drive were not set up wrong, it was set up perfectly by the factory and its oil was absolutely pristine when I put it in a glass jar before bolting it up to Columbo. It is not really possible to bolt it up wrong or out of alignment because it's machined for and located on the engine cases with metal dowels and the fine manual lists the torque values to use for the bolts. The 'new' middle drive has worked just fine and the oil passed the glass test with 75w90 and 85w90 for the last three 6,000 mile gear oil changes (that's 18,000 miles for them what don't have enough fingers but are too lazy to put down their beer to take off their boots and socks ).

                            I had 85w90 SuperTech from Wally World in the '850 final drive at the last oil change. There was no water or metal in its oil or on the magnetic drain plug and there was enough oil left in the drain pan (the pan went flying when I knocked over the bike and broke the windshield) to pass the glass test too. This time around I put Redline 75w140 in both drives and I'll see how it looks the next time I drain the oil.

                            FWIW the 6k gear oil change interval with 80w90 or 85w90 dino juice worked fine for 40,000 miles in the 'old' original '80G middle drive and the '750 final drive too until I wore out the final drive. The 'new' replacement '850 drive is definitely stronger than the 'old' '750 too.

                            .
                            -- Scott
                            _____

                            2004 ST1300A: No name... yet
                            1982 XJ1100J: "Baby" SS Brakes, '850 FD, ACCT
                            1980 XS1100G: "Columbo" SS Brakes, '850 FD, ACCT
                            1979 XS1100SF: "Bush" W.I.P.
                            1979 XS1100F: parts
                            2018 Heritage Softail Classic 117 FLHCS SE: "Nanuk" It's DEAD, it's not just resting. It is an EX cycle.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Royal Purple 75w90

                              I've been reading through this trying to figure out if I just wasted $22 on a bottle of Royal Purple 75w90...it was a long day yesterday and I wasn't thinking when I bought the stuff-I really wished I'd bought 75w140. I've already drained and replaced my middle and final drives with the 75w90. I'm not going on any cross country drives-just work and maybe my parents but nothing more than 100 miles. Maybe in a couple of months I'll change it for peace of mind but if there's nothing wrong with it so be it.
                              79 SF
                              Raptor Auto CCT, octopus-less, tapped/plugged fuelcock prime ports, new shorter handlebars, original stock Yamaha seat (w/ Octo routing diagram), looking for stock grab-bar/sissybar/backrest.

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