Pacifico LED Conversion

[3Phase]

Nate,

I don't quite grok how you've got everything wired up. Do you still have any 1157 dual-filament bulbs installed or is everything separated out into single-filament 1156-LER and 1156-LED?

Do the Signals (even if they don't flash) and Running lights work correctly if you use the stock Self-Cancel computer and the 3-pole flasher or is that already embedded in the far wall of the garage somewhere?

If you've got a mix of LEDs and LERs for the Tail, Running, and Signal lights, the LERs aren't polarized. They can backfeed to other parts of the same circuit, or a different circuit, if a ground or socket gets flaky and pour the juice through the LEDs in the correct direction even if the the LEDs are polarized.


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[natemoen]

So with the three prong flasher I got it required a ground. So what I had to do was replace the wire that goes to the self canceler with a ground. So currently the self canceler is completely out of the equation. Everything works correctly it is just that little glow that shouldn't be there.

Scott, right now the only lights on the bike that are not LED are the headlight and the stock tail light. I have separate tail lights that are LED and then another separate set of LEDs for the rear turn signals.

Hmmm, maybe I will try removing the stock tail light and see if that changes anything....

[CRXSi90]

Interesting problem. The indicator light shares a ground with a lot of other things. Due to the non-zero resistance of that ground wire, the "ground" end of the indicator can actually be raised above 0v. Since the turn signal indicator light is an incandescent, it is bi-directional as far as current. It can back-feed into the signal circuit. Try unplugging the indicator lights and see if you still get the dim glow.

[natemoen]

Indicator lights are LED. When I said every light except the stock tail light was LED I meant EVERY light.

I will see if I can get at the indicator lights with the fairing in the way.

[natemoen]

Removing the indicator lights did not change anything.

Out of curiosity I put the meter on an "off" turn signal lead and got 7.4 volts Where is this all coming from!!!!?

[CRXSi90]

Oh, you weren't joking on going all in on LED's!

[natemoen]

Oh, you weren't joking on going all in on LED's!

Only the headlight will not be LED, and if I could justify $300 for the LED headlight I would do that too, but that is not in the cards.

[3Phase]

Nate,

7.4 Volts sounds suspiciously close to the stator wye center-tap voltage that's used to turn on the Headlight Relay in the '78 and '79 bikes. The Yellow wire is the center-tap and it's in with the three White wires from the alternator.

Try unplugging the Headlight Relay and see if that gets rid of the phantom voltage. If that doesn't do it, unplug the alternator connector behind the fuse block and temporarily take the alternator completely out of the equation.

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[natemoen]

Nate,

7.4 Volts sounds suspiciously close to the stator wye center-tap voltage that's used to turn on the Headlight Relay in the '78 and '79 bikes. The Yellow wire is the center-tap and it's in with the three White wires from the alternator.

Try unplugging the Headlight Relay and see if that gets rid of the phantom voltage. If that doesn't do it, unplug the alternator connector behind the fuse block and temporarily take the alternator completely out of the equation.

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Good thing I have everything open....I will give it a try and report back.

[natemoen]

Went through one at a time disconecting each block connector and the headlight relay, nothing changed. The only connector that did do something was the fairing plug, but it was the addition of thenfront LEDs that started this. Tried unpluging the fuses and the only fuse that did anything was the main fuse since that is where the running lights are.

[natemoen]

Progress! If I unplug the front running lights all is well. So now I wonder if the sloppy old light sockets in the fairing are the problem? There really isn't a positive engagment when you put a bulb in.

[3Phase]

I thought you checked the sockets! <g,d&r>

.

[natemoen]

I thought you checked the sockets! <g,d&r>

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No I never checked the bulb sockets.

I don't really see how the voltage bleed is happening though. There aren't any wires touching or even close anywhere, the parts inside are in good shape, things are clean. the bulbs in those sockets are the only LEDs on there that ARE polarized so it should not be happening through the bulb. I don't know.....

[3Phase]

Nate,

Move the LEDs from one socket to the other:
Problem follows the LED = bad LED
Problem stays with the socket = wiring problem or bad socket

I'm really glad the alternator center-tap/headlight relay isn't the problem, that wouldn't be a fun path to hunt and shoot.

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[natemoen]

Nate,

Move the LEDs from one socket to the other:
Problem follows the LED = bad LED
Problem stays with the socket = wiring problem or bad socket

I'm really glad the alternator center-tap/headlight relay isn't the problem, that wouldn't be a fun path to hunt and shoot.

.

I have no other sockets to move them too. Like I said before, I had this happen with other LEDs I have tried in the past, I just never tried to figure out why it was happening. I just figured it was figured it was cause they were LEDs and weren't supposed to be there.