Pacifico LED Conversion

[CRXSi90]

Ok so I figbi I would give Superbrights 1157 bulbs a chance before I get to deep into this. When I put the LED bulb in and try the ren signals it makes The rear signal go real dim and they flash slow. I remember I did have this problem with some of the other bulbs that I have tried in the past but I never figured out why it happens.

So WTF guys? What is the problem, I am guessing this would probably happen if I did the panels as well so I might as well figure it out now.

I ran into this before on another bite and it was the turn signal indicator light. I'd have to check the XS 1100 wiring diagram to see if it affects these two. is easy to unplug the gauge cluster or indicator light?

[natemoen]

I know that can be a problem on bikes with a single turn signal indicator light but with the 2 separate indicators on these I don't see why that would be an issue here.

Any other ideas or think it could be the indicator?

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Nate,

I think you have too strong a flasher. I know it says it's ELectronic, but it is rated for 20 amps!!!! It's designed to handle a bunch of variable load bulbs on a circuit like a semi-tractor trailer!

I would say to get and try a lighter duty type Electronic flasher. I found a tridon brand one which is an Electro-Mechanical type...not thermal. It's a 2 prong unit, and works fine with my LEDS. I found it at a local auto store years ago.

Electro Mechanical flasher units are non polarised and non load sensitive, therefore do not conform to ADR13, they are only suitable for vehicles manufactured prior to 1990.

T.C.

[natemoen]

Flasher has crossed my mind and that is why I added in the part number.

I don't know why its max load rating would matter. You use that on something with 40 or 50 leds and you would be pushing that 20a limit.

[CRXSi90]

Yep, single indicator is what I was thinking of. I checked the diagram and they're not interconnected like I was thinking. I guess the only other thing in there besides the flasher itself is the "Flasher Cancelling Unit"...and a ground. The Cancelling unit is a magic box as far as I'm concerned, so who knows what goes on in there. Time to poke around with the multimeter, I guess.

TC was referring to the minimum load of the flasher, not the maximum. Your LED's don't pull much current, and the flasher might only work if there's, say, greater than 1A of current.

[natemoen]

The flasher is a 20 amp max not minimum.

[CRXSi90]

The flasher is a 20 amp max not minimum.

Yeah, I know. I'm not sure if you're agreeing or if we're still having a miscommunication.

I looked up the Bussmann 232 flasher but couldn't find a great datasheet. But my (our?) hypothesis is that the flasher has some unmentioned minimum current rating. Maybe the operating range is 5 to 20 amps. But with your LED's, you're running at 1 amp, which is below the minimum that this flasher supports. (just throwing numbers out there...)

My basis for this is that the flasher is probably constructed with some sort of oscillator inside. They usually have a capacitor and resistor (an RC network) and either a relay or a transistor to switch the load (the turn signals). Current is required to charge (and discharge) the capacitor, as well as throw the relay or trigger the transistor. In a picture of the flasher, I can see a capacitor and relay through the case. Most of the voltage drop is probably happening across the coil of the relay. There's not enough current to throw the contacts of the relay, and the trickle through the coil is just enough to light the LED's dimly.


http://www1.cooperbussmann.com/6/Flashers.html

[natemoen]

Yup, we all agree, it was just poorly stated by all until your last post here.

[natemoen]

Ok, so a different flasher solves the flashing dim problem but I still end up with the turn signals and the indicator light ever so slightly illuminated when they should be off.

[3Phase]

Nate,

Check the grounds and sockets for the signals and running lights. LEDs need so little juice they'll try to light up if you wave a penlight with dead batteries over 'em.

If the wiring is otherwise correct but you have weird stuff like a signal or running light that's on when it's supposed to be off, or the wrong filament glows while the correct one is on, there might a bad ground somewhere.

The headlight can sometimes do the same neat trick too. The selected filament will try to use the other one for ground and the selected one will be (usually) be brighter but neither one will really work right.

.

[natemoen]

Well the tail light assembly is one place I have not yet run any new grounds yet. Everything in the fairing has its own ground straight to the battery, another in where the headlight bucket would be, but nothing in the taillights. I also was going to at some point groung the gauge cluster so maybe now is the time.

Might need to clean up the negative post of my battery, I have added so many ground wires I don't know if I have any more room....

[natemoen]

Well the preliminary test showed no change with a ground to the tail light housing. Still going to put it in, but that isn't the issue.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Nate,

Okay, I'll try again. Scott/3phase is correct in that it takes so little power to light the leds, but the ones I put on mine are Polarized. They only work with the current flow in 1 direction...usually + to - direction. Are yours polarized, or will they work/light when powered in reverse?? If they are polarized and will NOT work in reverse, then you have power leakage into the turn signal (+) circuit..from where??? Perhaps from the running light circuit?

IF the leds are not polarity specific, then I would suspect back flow leakage from the negative back thru the leds...and somehow they are getting/using a different connection for the ground? That's my theory??

Glad a different flasher worked!

T.C.

[natemoen]

I had to do a little rewiring for the flasher but it wasn't bad, just had to add a ground for the third prong and make the new connector fit in the stock connector.

The bulbs in the fairing I know are polorized. The indicator bulbs I don't know, I can't find anything on the superbright website say they are though. The rear turn signala, which not connected to the running lights, I highly doubt are polorized. They are a bit on the cheap end so I don't think so.

[TopCatGr58]

Ooooh, a 3 Prong flasher! I'm no electronics guru, so I don't know the layout of the 3 prong flasher, or why it has 3 prongs, but because of the self cancelling feature, an automotive generic 2 prong flasher is what we have found works for a replacement....not a 3 prong! Surprised you got a 3 prong for it? The 2 prong one is plugged in 2 different ways, works 1 way, not the other. However, on an XJ, I had to pull and swap the wires on the harness plug before a 2 prong would work with it.

T.C.