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Genuine Mikuni Parts

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  • Genuine Mikuni Parts

    I just ordered genuine Mikuni Main and Pilot Jets as well as Needles. The idle screws are a little out of my price range, so I will stick with the K&L ones I have. Are there any other genuine parts that I should have?

    One other thing.

    I saw a thread where someone said that you should replace the brass floats if they look like the sides have been dented in even if they still float and have no holes. I've tested all of my floats and none of them leak, but they all look like they've had the sides caved in. Since they are no longer the right (stock) size and they would thus displace a different amount of fuel (I believe) do I need to replace the floats as well?
    79 SF 3H3 Engine, 145/45 Mikuni Jets, El Cheapo Pod Filter Mod w/ EMGO Pods, Coil Repower w/ Dyna Coils, Accell Wires and Side Gapped Plugs, 78 Mech Advance, 4-2 Turnouts

  • #2
    Originally posted by spayne83 View Post
    I just ordered genuine Mikuni Main and Pilot Jets as well as Needles. The idle screws are a little out of my price range, so I will stick with the K&L ones I have. Are there any other genuine parts that I should have?

    One other thing.

    I saw a thread where someone said that you should replace the brass floats if they look like the sides have been dented in even if they still float and have no holes. I've tested all of my floats and none of them leak, but they all look like they've had the sides caved in. Since they are no longer the right (stock) size and they would thus displace a different amount of fuel (I believe) do I need to replace the floats as well?
    Not necessarily. Depending on how much they are dented and if they are creased or not you can try a few different things to bring them back. The idea is to heat them up and allow the air pressure inside them to pop them back to original size. You could hold them in some boiling water and see it pops them back out, or hold them over a candle if you need more heat. With some finesse you could use a propane torch but that could be hot enough to melt the solder so I would use that as a last resort.

    Of course this only works if they dont have any holes. Dunk them in hot water (not quite boiling) and see if air comes out of them before trying the previously mentioned.
    '79 XS11 F
    Stock except K&N

    '79 XS11 SF
    Stock, no title.

    '84 Chevy K-10 "Big Blue"
    GM 350, Muncie SM465, NP208, GM 10 Bolt with 3.42gears turnin 31x10.5 Baja Claws

    "What they do have is an implacable, unrelenting presence and movement that bespeaks massive power lurking behind paint and chrome. They don't wail like a screeching ninja, the don't rumble like a harley. They just growl like a spactic, stressed out badger waiting to rip your face off and eat your soul." Trainzz~RIP~

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    • #3
      Some people have also had good luck with a Mighty Vac chamber.
      Nate

      78 XS11 "Matilda" 2H7 000364

      2001 Raptor ACCT, T.C. Fuse Box, TC Bros Forward Controls
      Kuryakyn Iso Grips/Throttleboss/Bar End Mirror, Custom Covered Seat
      Shinko 712s, HID Headlight, RC Performance Exhaust
      Bikemaster Daytona Handlebars, Galfer SS Brake Lines
      Barnett HD Clutch Springs, T.C. Spin On Filter Adapter
      K+N Air Filter

      88 Voyager XII
      81 XJ650 Maxim

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