Newbie... With carburetor challenges

[Zeston]

Hi,
Just wanted to reach out and say hi. My father recently passed down his beloved '79 XS 1100 to me, and I'm working diligently to restore it to it's original glory.
It was always very well maintained, however the carbs have won the first couple of rounds of the rehab battle.
Any thoughts on getting the jets unfrozen? I know that these carbs have never been disassembled, so I'm not surprised by how stubbornly stuck everything is, any secrets beyond the usual liquid wrench and WD 40? Oh yeah, and the float pins too... Very scary proposition there, they seem to be asking to be broken! I don't suppose a night in the carb cleaner pail will help loosen up the above listed issues?

Thanks!

[Tat2demon]

Can always try soaking them in Berrymans, or some PB Blaster for a day. For float pins many use side cutters (dikes) and go in right behind the head. Dont pry, just try to squeeze in there. Usually it will push the pin out.

Oh and welcome to the community! We have a lot of great people with massive amounts of knowledge and experience with the 11s.

[DGXSER]

If soaking for a day or so in PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench does not work, then try adding heat to the equation for the jets, or a soak in Berrymans, but do not let the butterfly seals get in the berrymans.

For the float pins, if you do a search, Ken Talbot made a cool tool for removing the pins. It captures both post and uses a screw to push the pin out. I had a set where all four pins were frozen, I made on of these tools and got them all out with no broken post.

[natemoen]

Welcome!

I agree with DG about adding a little heat for the jets and screws. I have a small kitchen torch (like what you see chefs using) and puts out a nice small and tight flame and I heat the area around the jets when I try turning them. You will start to see green/brown crap start bubbling out of the seams around the jets.

The heat also helps for the float pins, but Ken Talbots tool is really the only way to go. The number of newbies and come on here saying they broke (usually they blame the previous owner but it was their fault) a float post and need a new carb body now. You really need to be careful with those 30+ year old float pin posts!!!

[TADracer]

Welcome

Yes, welcome.

One more thing about those float pins. After you get them out you do not need to push them in tightly on reassembly (the tips are sort of a cone fit). Just snug them in with your finger. The float bowl will hold them captive once it is on so they cannot back out of the post.

[natemoen]

Yes, welcome.

One more thing about those float pins. After you get them out you do not need to push them in tightly on reassembly (the tips are sort of a cone fit). Just snug them in with your finger. The float bowl will hold them captive once it is on so they cannot back out of the post.

I will add, you can grind down the cone (it is on the end closest to the head, you can't really see it but it is there) so that they pins will slide freely and not bind again.

[TopCatGr58]

Another option for the jets is if you have access to a decent sized ultrasonic cleaner..that can also help to penetrate and loosen the varnish to allow you to get the jets loose. However, realize that the jets are BRASS and a bit softer metal, especially with age. Many have broken off the screwdriver slot in the Pilot jets because of badly stuck jets. A proper tight fitting screwdriver is a must....think this is described in the carb tech tip.

T.C.

[BillyRok]

I had a tough time removing a couple of the float pins, too. I ground down one side of an old style square nut so it fit tightly between the posts, had somebody hold a punch against the post with the pin head, and tapped the pin out gently from the other post with a nail and small hammer. I held my breath and they came right out. Followed the advice of others and pushed the pin back in just far enough so the bowl goes on and holds it from falling out.

[Zeston]

Ok great news!

I broke nothing and everything is removed. The bowl pins came out after a little heat and a gentle pry on the pin head with the side of a slotted screw driver. I looked into the tool that someone has devised in a previous thread which looks brilliant, let me know when I can buy it on store shelves! However, when I applied the heat it transferred into the metal float hinge and ultimately released the solder causing the bowl to fall off. After a small panic attack I was able to re-attach the two parts.
I agree totally on having the right fit size screw driver for the pilot jets. I was using one that was too small and was mangling the heads a bit. I bought another screw driver that was a bit too big and filed it down to fit into the tube, applied heat and they are all out.

Thanks to everyone for the tips, one last question, should I be worried about the tops of the pilot jets being less then perfect, I mean, will it affect performance? Silly question, But hey I'm the first to say I don't know when I don't!

[Tat2demon]

Thanks to everyone for the tips, one last question, should I be worried about the tops of the pilot jets being less then perfect, I mean, will it affect performance? Silly question, But hey I'm the first to say I don't know when I don't!

As long as the hole is still clear you will be fine.

[GLoweVA]

As long as the hole is still clear you will be fine.

Also as long as you can get it back out again in the future too.

[GLoweVA]

Yahoo, another Virginian

Hey, welcome to the group.
I see that you're from Ashland, VA,
There are about 8 or 9 of us XSives down here in the Hamton Roads area just an hour or so south down I-64.
Just last weekend 6 of us took a little trip up the penisula and turned around right there at the Richmond airport.
Also DPotter is just across the border in MD too.
Keep in touch and up to date on your progress, maybe when you're done we all can get together for a ride up in that neck of the woods.

[natemoen]

However, when I applied the heat it transferred into the metal float hinge and ultimately released the solder causing the bowl to fall off. After a small panic attack I was able to re-attach the two parts.
!

So you are saying that you un-soldered one of the floats?

If so, you need to be very careful of how you re-soldered it! The way they float can GREATLY affect the fuel level in the carb. If you used to much solder, it will float low and raise the fuel level, if you didn't use enough solder it will float high and lower the fuel level. Same goes for positioning of the float on the hinge. You may not believe me that this a critical thing and that it does not really matter all that much, but a small change in the fuel height in the bowl does actually make a big difference in the way the bike runs!

While you have the floats all off, something else to do to make sure they are all in good shape is to boil some water and then take the water off the stove. Dunk the floats fully under water and watch for any small bubbles coming from the floats. If there are any bubbles then you have a hole in the float and it needs to be fixed or replaced. While you have the floats in the water, check and see how they float, do they float lop sided or do they float even.

After you put the floats back on make sure to check and set all the float heights to 25.7mm from the gasket surface with the gasket removed. Check all 8 floats (2 floats on each one). Again this is a critical point, be anal about this!!!

[Zeston]

Okay the whole float thing was a setback, I accept that.... In the end all is good, they are all water tight and set to the tolerances. I was able to get the carburetors reassembled and feel really good about the condition everything is in. I'm even going to try to reuse the float bowl gaskets, they came off in good condition, worth a shot right? I have new gaskets on the way in the event gas poors out everywhere. Oh yeah I also lost one of the tiny springs which resulted in 45 miserable minutes of crawling around on the garage floor (found it)

Next stop, the motor that hasn't fired in 16 years. Tonight we cranked it over gently by hand, and sprayed a little WD40 in the manifold and through the plug holes. I'm off to read up on what to do next, but if anyone has some tips/suggestions Please send them over!!

[donebysunday]

center punch

An automatic pencil style center punch works great to push those float pins out. It's under $15 at most hardware stores.

Welcome!

I agree with DG about adding a little heat for the jets and screws. I have a small kitchen torch (like what you see chefs using) and puts out a nice small and tight flame and I heat the area around the jets when I try turning them. You will start to see green/brown crap start bubbling out of the seams around the jets.

The heat also helps for the float pins, but Ken Talbots tool is really the only way to go. The number of newbies and come on here saying they broke (usually they blame the previous owner but it was their fault) a float post and need a new carb body now. You really need to be careful with those 30+ year old float pin posts!!!