Thoughts on Oxalic acid rust remover

[GLoweVA]

Okay, so I stumbled across the BMX bikers restoration site and saw the results of them derusting their chrome parts in Oxalic acid (aka Wood Bleach).
The Pros: cheap and doesn't eat the metal, doesn't leave an etch behind.
The Cons: toxic to humans and animals if ingested and of course it's an acid, so it can burn. (but it's safe to use on your deck to clean it. It's natural, so it's environtmental okay.)
If you look at the active ingredents of some de-rusters, you'll see that this is the same stuff. (bar keepers friend, brasso, etc.)
Most here have gone the electrolysis route and I agree that will work for items like gas tanks, but what about the exhaust?
With a stock setup, the muffler is welded to the collector and #1 (or #4) down tube. It's all one big unit. Kinda hard to electrolysis that!
How about a storage bin, (like the ones that slide under the bed or even a kids swimming pool) some water and a couple of ounces of the acid?

Here's some before and after pics they posted up:

[jetmechmarty]

That's interesting, George. That being an acid, isn't it still going to etch the metal? I can see that it did not appear to attack the chrome.

I have done rust removal with phosphoric acid. It is very effective, but the metal is etched and will require paint, or some sort of coating immediately. I have used electrolysis as well. It works, but the acid treatment is much easier. My favorite method is Metal Rescue. It works very well without attacking the base metal, paint, chrome, etc.

I'd still like to know more about using oxalic acid. I think for an exhaust, I might prefer the Metal Rescue method. With electrolysis, there is the issue of hydrogen embrittlement. Is this a real concern. I don't know.

[Courtney]

Just use Evaporust or MetalRestore. It is just as effective as that, but is absolutely non-toxic. You can pour it over yourself if you want.

[Rasputin]

Have to point out that no matter what method you use the rust has already etched the metal. No matter what you do the product will not replace the missing metal that rust has removed. No matter which method you decide to use the rust will return quickly as the rust has removed chrome's protective coating. Either a clear coat paint or many use polish will help this.
I have used Evapo-rust and love the stuff. I have also used electrolysis and it works wonder given the right power supply. I have a cut out 45 gallon drum I use for larger parts but a complete exhaust will only fit so far so you have to turn it every once in a while to get complete coverage.
Not so bad as I would hate to pay for enough metal rescue or evapo-rust to cover the pipes as well. That said you can also use rags to wrap up larger parts and keep it wet with some basting or spraying. The evapo-rust will still do it's job but it does take longer by far. Another point I should make is that the evapo-rust is ok to be diluted with water. It will take longer but it still works.
Acid will eventually eat at the metal. Electrolysis is supposedly safe as the metal does not react just the rust does. I am told but have no idea as to how true it is that the evapo- rust type solutions actually turn rust back into metal like compositions which reduce the lost material. I do not know that answer.
Just hope you have good luck with whatever method you use!

[GLoweVA]

Yeah, I know that there's nothing short of re-chroming that's going to restore the lost metal, but I want to remove the rust with minimal damage to the chrome.
I would try electroylsis, but I figured this alternative may be a little easier (and maybe cheaper)(evaporust isn't cheap, even though it may be overall the best choice)
If this method is used on non-chrome metals, then yes, it may etch the steel and/or leave behind the black iron oxide behind. This would be okay for those components that would get repainted (or sealed like a gas tank). I was looking for a method for rust removal from the chrome components when I came across this.
I tried the aluminum foil method once and I didn't like the finished results on my front fender.

Of course, whichever method I use, the key is to seal the component ASAP after it's done to prevent re-rusting.
I figure maybe a good wax or some clearcoat spray may be the way to go.
With the exhaust, there's going to be places that are virtually inaccessable after reinstalling them back on the bike.
Whichever way I go, I'll document with pics for all to see.

[Irukandji]

Espirit rust remover @ rustdepot.com

GLowVA... you might try item #290886805663
on ebay, cost Way lest than Evap. GOOD reviews

I an not the seller