?*#! *$_( special tire valves???

[sparkfly88]

I got my tires shipped to me today, I got the old tire off a couple days ago, and found out that they were running a tube in a tubeless tire, on a tubeless rim.

So, I bought the valve stems I'm used to on regular automobiles and they are too big.


What the heck do these things use??

[jwhughes3]

http://motorcycle.motorcycle-superst...20Valve%20Stem

Many options.

John

[sparkfly88]

So, they don't have any special measurement???


Just "motorcycle stem" ?
If I go to a motorcycle shop, they wont have a billion different sizes to deal with I hope


It's just all the way across town and my other vehicles head gasket is going....uggh

[jwhughes3]

Can you go ahead and remove the old one to take with you?

John

[ESJr1642]

IIRC, they were the 8mm when I changed mine.

[bikerphil]

Here's what you need....

https://www.denniskirk.com/k-and-l/s...prd/541468.sku

I've used the metal automotive ones before but needed to drill the hole in the rim slightly larger, worked just fine.

[sparkfly88]

Well, I went to my bike shop, borrowed my mom's mercedes for the trip.

They tried giving me the same rubber ones I had, only shorter saying it's what should work and its tubeless standard equipment. I said it wouldnt work but they said it would.

Then I picked up the rim from the trunk and showed them.


"wow uh, thats a small hole, it must be for tube tires, you need a tube"

Then I showed him the "TUBELESS" on the rim.

He was the same age as I am, but very reluctant to learn


Finally I spoke to someone else and they went digging for the metal ones, with the gaskets on each side.

10$ a pop.


Well, now I have the tire mounted, balanced, forks back on the bike, and wheel on the bike, now I'm just trying to figure out this pinch nut deal to try and get them all centered up.

My bike looks like it wants to go hard left.

[jwhughes3]

There really isn't any 'fork alignment' to lose; particularly if the tops are uneven. Unless you have some bent components and the PO has forced/misaligned bits to compensate for it....

To realign the forks is simple; if you're replacing fork seals, pull both forks off the bike and rebuild them. Reassemble in this order:

1. Loosen the stem bolt on the top tree so it can rotate, and all the pinch bolts.
2. Install the forks in the trees, adjusting 'height' in the trees so the forks are even at the top. How much they are out of the top tree is up to you; I'd make sure the cap clears the tree, you can make minor adjustments in bike height by changing this. Torque the lower tree pinch bolts now. This will 'pull' the forks into alignment in the forks.
3. Lightly snug the stem bolt, then torque the upper tree pinch bolts.
4. Torque the stem bolt.
5. Install the wheel/axle. Torque the axle nut (but not the axle pinch bolt).
6. Check rotor centering in the fork slots. It should be centered on the axle nut side; on the pinch bolt side, push/pull the fork until the rotor is centered, then torque the pinch bolt.
7. Reinstall the brakes, fender, and the fork brace if fitted. That's it!

Doing it like this will allow you to check both forks for matched components, as well as checking your tubes for straightness against each other. This is a good way to 're-set' the forks after a minor mishap too. If you have issues with alignment after doing this, then something is bent. This would also be a good time to look at the stem/neck bearings while you have it apart.

As to the banjo bolt, if it's long enough to safely retain both lines, just drill another hole (90 degrees to existing) where it needs to be.

Here ya go....


John

[sparkfly88]

Here ya go....


John

Yeah, I follwed this to the letter, just dunno what he means by push and pull to get everything centered..


Lemme go back outside and redo.

[DGXSER]

Basically you have to leave everything loose, except the top fork clamps, just tight enough to hold it all from sliding out. This includes the fender mounting bolts.

Now align the handle bars so they are centered, and then push, twist the wheel (I use my knees to move the wheel) to get it in line. Once it is in line, tighten the lower fork pinch bolts, and work your way down. When you have the axle tight, the side opposite has the pinch bolt in it, that side will still move in and out on the axle. You may need to move the fork to get the disc centered in the slot of the fork. When it is centered, you can tighten the pinch bolt. Wheel should be in line.