Changing fork seals without fork removal from bike??

[sparkfly88]

I'm tryin to wrap my mind around this....I know, its another thread that I see alot of on the site, I used the search, and more, and more.

I've never worked on a bike's suspension before, I keep seeing a mention of a tool, but I dunno where it goes...

I have the front wheel off ( I'm replacing the tire, and already have it off the wheel waiting for my replacment to come in )

Calipers are off.

My seals are coming in tuesday and I want em off and ready.

I just dont have a clue!

I've looked at every photo I can find of the process, I just cant seem to understand

[Tat2demon]

Well you could, but you would need to take the handlebars off and you would end up with fork oil covering everything on the front of your bike. Its only 2 pinch bolts per fork to take them off.

[Tat2demon]

Oh and the "tool" is the a bolt with a 19mm head and 2 nuts on the other end cinched together. That goes into the upper tube and down into the rod inside. It holds the rod so you can undo the bolt in the bottom. If you take the cap off the fork you can look inside and see where it goes.

[sparkfly88]

okay, so the forks come off easy I guess.....that's why I was a little worried..

I've messed with car suspensions before and you remove something thats underload on accident and crap flies everywhere hardcore..

Didnt wanna have that happen and launch something into orbit since my bike is outside and the forks are facing UP

Remove pinch bolts, forks slide out, remove top rubber caps, and the top large covers..these have a slotted screw in them...


Drop the tool down, remove the lower allen, replace seal using the PVC trick, install allen, flip forks upside down to remove tool...then re install to bike.

Pretty simple and correct summary ?

[bikerphil]

Most likely you will also need an automotive type seal puller or you will be in for a struggle getting the old seals out. Before removing the caps, turn that slotted screw in the top CCW all the way to lessen the spring preload. It's a good idea to break loose those caps while the forks are still clamped on the triple trees with a 22MM box wrench.

[sparkfly88]

Most likely you will also need an automotive type seal puller or you will be in for a struggle getting the old seals out. Before removing the caps, turn that slotted screw in the top CCW all the way to lessen the spring preload.

Awesome guys thanks!

Lets see if I can tackle this after work tomorrow.
My seals come in tuesday.

Ill try to take photos of the whole process for someone photo orientated like myself.

[Rasputin]

Couple of things I would like to point out here.
Yes things can fly when you take the fork caps off so be careful there.
You will never get the fork tubes really clean without a complete dis-assembly so you are on the right track.
Now is as good a time as any to replace the fork seals. You have it apart any ways and if they are suspect or you can afford to change them do it now.
Using an impact will often make the job of removing the lower Allen bolts easier and often you do not need the special tool.
Know your ride, its weight, your weight and accessories like a Jammer. Then use the correct weight of fork fluid for your circumstances. While 10w is recommended you may find the 15w or even 20w may be better for you. Research on your part can make for a much better handling bike in the long run. Also make sure you are using exactly the same amount of fork oil in each fork. Attention to detail here results in a much better handling bike.
Clock the fork caps before re-installing them. That is done by reversing the rotation of the cap on empty fork tubes until you feel the click where the threads drop into place. Mark that point. Then when you have to be pushing the caps in against the spring you have a start point, which minimizes any cross threading.
Hope this may help.

[sparkfly88]

Couple of things I would like to point out here.
Yes things can fly when you take the fork caps off so be careful there.
You will never get the fork tubes really clean without a complete dis-assembly so you are on the right track.
Now is as good a time as any to replace the fork seals. You have it apart any ways and if they are suspect or you can afford to change them do it now.
Using an impact will often make the job of removing the lower Allen bolts easier and often you do not need the special tool.
Know your ride, its weight, your weight and accessories like a Jammer. Then use the correct weight of fork fluid for your circumstances. While 10w is recommended you may find the 15w or even 20w may be better for you. Research on your part can make for a much better handling bike in the long run. Also make sure you are using exactly the same amount of fork oil in each fork. Attention to detail here results in a much better handling bike.
Clock the fork caps before re-installing them. That is done by reversing the rotation of the cap on empty fork tubes until you feel the click where the threads drop into place. Mark that point. Then when you have to be pushing the caps in against the spring you have a start point, which minimizes any cross threading.
Hope this may help.

No fairing on my bike, and I am fairly light at 170#
I plan on using regular 10 weight.

Thanks for the tip on the clocking, I did read another trick on that as well on here, I like yours better!

[Tat2demon]

Remove pinch bolts, forks slide out, remove top rubber caps, and the top large covers..these have a slotted screw in them...


Drop the tool down, remove the lower allen, replace seal using the PVC trick, install allen, flip forks upside down to remove tool...then re install to bike.

Pretty simple and correct summary ?

Yep, its that easy. When you're done you'll realize you're worried over nothing. I was scared to do mine too and it turned out to be so easy that I did the seals on my 650 the next day. The only bad thing is the mess. I had fork oil on everything when I was done.

The old seals may give you some trouble. It took a little muscle and a lot of swearing but I was able to get them out with a flathead screwdriver. Just be careful not to scratch the inside of the fork.

[sparkfly88]

Better than used nasty gear oil....
I hate that stuff with a passion

close in second place is brake fluid, and its odd warming effect on your hands

[DGXSER]

Since you have a standard, try THIS thread for fork rebuild.

[sparkfly88]

Since you have a standard, try THIS thread for fork rebuild.

Thanks, I did see that thread before, but now that I'm not feeling intimidated by the job I was able to read it more clearly.

It does make alot more sense now that I know they should be removed from the bike.

I do hope mine is seized up enough to not need an impact.

[CaptonZap]

I do hope mine is seized up enough to not need an impact.

Do yourself a favor, and get a piece of 1/2 inch all thread 18 inches long and four nuts. Or two nuts and a pair of vise grips.
Jam two nuts on one end of the all thread, and two on the other end, or clamp the vise grips on the end opposite of the two nuts. Lean the contraption next to the forks till you are ready to work. The forks will see that you mean business, and they may release the Allen bolts without problems. If they don't, you don't have to interrupt the flow of work while you go get the all thread and nuts. The stuff is available at Home Despot, or a good hardware store, and shouldn't cost more than a few bucks. Cheap insurance that you will get the job done in the shortest time possible.
CZ

ps The nut size is 3/4 inch, = 19 mm close enough.

[jjz28]

I too am kind of intimidated by this job but am getting ready to do it when I get the seals and puller. Do you need the all thread or rod for a 79 special? I was thinking I saw somewhere where I wouldn't need it on the special. Also, only one seal is leaking, the other one is fine and holds air good, should I replace both or just the leaking one and save the seal for later. Thanks and I am not try to threadjack, just needed to ask this one thing.

[CaptonZap]

I too am kind of intimidated by this job but am getting ready to do it when I get the seals and puller. Do you need the all thread or rod for a 79 special? I was thinking I saw somewhere where I wouldn't need it on the special. Also, only one seal is leaking, the other one is fine and holds air good, should I replace both or just the leaking one and save the seal for later. Thanks and I am not try to threadjack, just needed to ask this one thing.

You may need it on the special, depends on if the last guy in there used lock-tite.
Look at the seal question this way. Both seals are the same age. One leaks. How far away from leaking is the other one? You have two new seals. Do you enjoy taking the front end apart so that you can access the seals? Is it as much fun if it is only one seal?
Let your conscience be your guide.

CZ