Tweet
i noticed about a week ago that my rear brake pads were shot, so for the past few times that i have ridden it i have used the fronts only since i hadnt had the chance to get new brakes. i remember the last time that i used the rear brakes that the pedal was sticking in the down position some. i just got some brake pads today and installed them with now problem. the piston seemed to depress normally when i was installing the new brakes, but i did see some slight surface rust on the end of the piston. so once i had the new pads on i decided to bleed the brakes to make sure that everything was ok, for the big road trip i have this friday. as i started to press the petal it was hard to press and once it was pressed all the way i had to manually return the pedal to the up positon. i need some help to get this thing figured out before i have to leave this friday. i was thinking that i might have to take off the caliper and clean it out, but just wanted to know if that was it or did it have some thing to do with the pedal shaft needing some kind of lube since i haven used it in a while. any help would be greatly appreciated.
-
-
If the pedal isnt coming off I would look to make sure the spring around the shaft behind the pedal didnt break or come unhooked.Nate
78 XS11 "Matilda" 2H7 000364
2001 Raptor ACCT, T.C. Fuse Box, TC Bros Forward Controls
Kuryakyn Iso Grips/Throttleboss/Bar End Mirror, Custom Covered Seat
Shinko 712s, HID Headlight, RC Performance Exhaust
Bikemaster Daytona Handlebars, Galfer SS Brake Lines
Barnett HD Clutch Springs, T.C. Spin On Filter Adapter
K+N Air Filter
88 Voyager XII
81 XJ650 Maxim -
Hey John,
Sounds like the actual pedal shaft has gotten a bit rusty and stiff! The spring is kinda fun to put on there also once you take the shaft out. You have to pull the brake lever off the shaft, will also need to take the rear wheel off to have the room the slide the shaft assembly inwards toward the swingarm. I can't remember exactly, but once the wheel is off, you can position the swingarm out of the way. Once you get the brake lever shaft off, you can brush the rust off the shaft as well as the hole/slot that it fits into....then apply GREASE, reassemble, and it should be good to go.
T.C.T. C. Gresham
81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
History shows again and again,
How nature points out the folly of men!Comment
-
spring
checked that out and the spring seems to be good and in place.Originally posted by Tat2demon View PostComment
-
One other thought. If it is a stock brake arm, there is a Zerk in the center of the pivot point. If there is none, look and see if there was one, but some bobber guy took it out,
and if so, get one and put it back in.
Now, it is a 50/50 chance that the internal hole is rusted shut, but if you can give it 8 or 10 strokes on the grease gun, you will flush out a lot of what ever is in there. Run it that way for a month or two, then take it apart, and the usage will have scoured the crud into a fine abrasive mud, composed of grease and iron oxide, and when you clean that stuff out, you should end up with some relatively clean bearing surfaces. Don't forget to clean it out though, cause it will wear away the bearing if left in there.
CZComment
-
Only the standards have that zerk fitting, so if you have a Special stop looking....
The Specials are the ones that really need it though; the shaft runs in a steel tube and rust can be an issue. The standard's shaft runs in aluminum, and the grease is to keep from wearing that hole into an oblong....Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two
'78E original owner - resto project
'78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
'82 XJ rebuild project
'80SG restified, red SOLD
'79F parts...
'81H more parts...
Other current bikes:
'93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
'86 XL883/1200 Chopper
'82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...Comment
-
standard
I do have a standard its an 81h. And i dont think i touched that fitting when i built my bike. I will check in a few.Originally posted by crazy steve View PostOnly the standards have that zerk fitting, so if you have a Special stop looking....
The Specials are the ones that really need it though; the shaft runs in a steel tube and rust can be an issue. The standard's shaft runs in aluminum, and the grease is to keep from wearing that hole into an oblong....Comment
-
..........81Standard enclosed in steel also. No zerk.Originally posted by crazy steve View PostOnly the standards have that zerk fitting, so if you have a Special stop looking....
The Specials are the ones that really need it though; the shaft runs in a steel tube and rust can be an issue. The standard's shaft runs in aluminum, and the grease is to keep from wearing that hole into an oblong....81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.Comment
-
Comment
-
So if the pedal isn't returning then it's either the spring not having enough umph to move it back or the shaft is dragging.
Here's a quick snapshot of the pedal:
Sorry about the pic size, the work computer isn't that great.Hi, my name is George & I'm a twisty addict!
80G (Green paint(PO idea))
The Green Monster
K&N A/F, TC's fuse block, '81 oil cooler, TC's homemade 4-2 w/Mac Mufflers, Raptor 660 ACCT
Got him in '04.
bald tire & borrowing parts
80SG (Black w/red emblems & calipers)
Scarlet
K&N A/F, TC's fuse block, WJ5, Shoei bags, Raptor 660 ACCT.
Got her in '11
Ready for the twisties!
81H (previously CPMaynard's)
Hugo
Full Venturer, Indigo Blue with B/W painted tank.
Cold weather rideComment
-
Yeah, I should have clarified.... The 78-80 standard has the zerk. The 81H doesn't because it used the Special exhaust/muffler mount/brake linkage...Originally posted by motoman View PostFast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two
'78E original owner - resto project
'78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
'82 XJ rebuild project
'80SG restified, red SOLD
'79F parts...
'81H more parts...
Other current bikes:
'93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
'86 XL883/1200 Chopper
'82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...Comment
-
zerk
Could i drill and tap it to add a zerk greese fitting?Comment
-
All things are possible to them that have a machine shop.Originally posted by Nightengale View Post
Basically, you drill a blind hole in far enough so that when you drill an intersecting hole from the side of the shaft, any grease forced out through that intersecting hole goes into the support sleeve of that shaft. (The hole from the outside, the one in the center of the shaft, doesn't go all the way through. Just to about half way through the sleeve supporting the shaft. That is where you want the grease to come out.)
Zerks come with different threads, so get the one with the smallest thread. (1/4 28?) The shaft may he hardened, so try a carbide bit on it first, to see if you can drill it. Some parts are case (surface) hardened, and once you get through that, the drilling is easier.
http://www.saeproducts.com/grease-fi...Fc9DMgodrWsA2gComment
-
Originally posted by Nightengale View Post
What a job, complete disasembly and machining. Have you ever tried Tri Flow, Super Lube or Slick 50 #1 lube see if you can get some to work it's way in there. The Slick 50 1 is the least expensivive and still has the PTFE same as the others at less than 1/2 the price. Great for chains and cables, levers etc. too.76 XS650 C ROADSTER
80 XS650 G Special II
https://ibb.co/album/icbGgF
80 XS 1100 SG
81 XS 1100LH/SH DARKHORSE
https://tinyurl.com/k6nzvtw
AKA; Don'e, UD, Unca Don'eComment
-
The problem with his present situation is that there is a bunch of rust inside the pivot joint. Yes, you could leave it in there, but it will continue to rust and deteriorate the shaft and sleeve. It needs cleaned out and a lubricant installed. Then it becomes a question of do you want to have to take the shaft out every time you want to renew the lubricant, or do you want to be able to flush the crud out with a fresh injection of grease. One way or another, the shaft needs removed and cleaned of rust, the sleeve cleaned out as well.
There are no short cuts to a good job.
CZComment
Comment