Running light issues

[BobBaldy]

The good news- after sitting for 13 years I finally got my 80 standard running again.
The Bad news- I have electrical issues. The headlight comes on but the side markers and the tail light do not. The tail light was working but then it quit. The rigt side turn indicator works but the left does not.

The ground strap from the battery to the frame looks good and I don't see any obviously loose connections.

So. Before I get started I'd like to ask if there is some sort of module that commonly goes bad to cause my problem or do you think it's just corrosion and loose wires?

[donebysunday]

The good news- after sitting for 13 years I finally got my 80 standard running again.
The Bad news- I have electrical issues. The headlight comes on but the side markers and the tail light do not. The tail light was working but then it quit. The rigt side turn indicator works but the left does not.

The ground strap from the battery to the frame looks good and I don't see any obviously loose connections.

So. Before I get started I'd like to ask if there is some sort of module that commonly goes bad to cause my problem or do you think it's just corrosion and loose wires?

I think loose or corroded connections, dielectric grease may resolve the issue but making sure the connections/fittings are tight. A little pliers on the female to close it so it clamps onto the male will assure a good solid currant.

[BobBaldy]

That's what I was afraid of. It's going to be a hair pulling, wire chasing cussfest.
Oh well. I'll post what I did after I get it fixed.

[donebysunday]

It's not so bad if you look at it as being part of the service to keep your bike working. I do all the connections eventually as I go through the different electrical systems on the bike, dielectric grease and pliers in hand.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey there Bob,

Okay, I perused thru your BLOG on your bike rebuild. Nice Jardine pipes!
You were able to replace the caliper pistons, new air filter, and worked on your carbs....but broke a float post. DO NOT USE JB-Weld, it will NOT hold up under constant fuel immersion, it eventually melts/softens..several of us have tried it and proven it doesn't work/hold! A search for float post repair for a bunch of threads on different techniques to fix it.

The bike probably has the OEM glass fuse block....your bike has a separate circuit/fuse for the tail lights vs the headlights. The brass clips age, weaken and fail loosing connection and power. Highly recommend inspecting it FIRST, and then replacing with the one I resell for COST which gets you SOLID Atco style fuses...that will go a long way in eliminating your electrical gremlins. Check out the For Sale Forum, parts section, parts/services by members sticky, post #10 for info and payment info.

There is another grounding strap behind the engine from the starter motor bolts to the frame....remove, inspect clean, and reattach to frame FIRST...then apply the dielectric grease to the OUTSIDE of the wires/frame..to help insulate the connection from water/humidity. But don't put it between the strap and frame...DE grease is an insulator/non conductor and can actually cause a problem between the strap and frame since it's a flat touch connection....not like a clip on type connector. Still recommend pulling the other harness connectors, clean, DE grease and such! Don't forget INSIDE the headlight bucket!

T.C.

[BobBaldy]

I need to update my blog. I had the carb post TIG welded. I also had them ultrasonic cleaned (it wouldn't idle below 2000 and ran rough after carb cleaner and a toothbrush) then did the diaphragm replacement because mine had tons of pinholes.

The p.o. replaced the fuse block.

I didn't know about the second ground strap- I'll get on it. I've already been in the headlight to fix an intermittent no power when key on but I better go back to grease things.

Thanks for the advice guys.

[MPittma100]

Upgrade

You can save yourself much electrical cussing in the future by upgrading the factory "chassis" grounds by improving them to direct "battery" grounds. Oh, what a difference this will make.

The OEM battery ground wire goes to the frame. Run another ground wire from there to the next frame grounding point for the engine. You will see it down the left side of the frame. Then, with seat and tank removed, run a ground (from the battery) to the screw of the regulator/rectifier that already has some other (chassis) grounds on it. Lastly tie in a battery ground into the tail light harness.

May sound like a lot to do, but many present gremlins will disappear.

I could go on and on with the scientific reasoning as to why you should do this, but will save you the lengthy reading by simply saying "trust me on this".

MP

[natemoen]

You can save yourself much electrical cussing in the future by upgrading the factory "chassis" grounds by improving them to direct "battery" grounds. Oh, what a difference this will make.

The OEM battery ground wire goes to the frame. Run another ground wire from there to the next frame grounding point for the engine. You will see it down the left side of the frame. Then, with seat and tank removed, run a ground (from the battery) to the screw of the regulator/rectifier that already has some other (chassis) grounds on it. Lastly tie in a battery ground into the tail light harness.

May sound like a lot to do, but many present gremlins will disappear.

I could go on and on with the scientific reasoning as to why you should do this, but will save you the lengthy reading by simply saying "trust me on this".

MP

Go one farther and run a ground all the way up to the headlight bucket and tie all those grounds into that.

[Nubian]

Go one farther and run a ground all the way up to the headlight bucket and tie all those grounds into that.

Hey there, would you mind posting or sending me a picture of how all your meters are set up.