Interesting 2nd gear fix

[BA80]

You have to pull that left bearing housing off and remove the shift fork and 5th gear (one furthest to the left) before the countershaft will come out.

Once you get that bearing housing out the gear at the end will pull off and out of the shaft and case and give you some wiggle room.

The gear at the other end (where the bolt I spoke of is) will pull off the shaft as you pull it out of the bearing there. Gravy from there but you have to reverse this procedure EXACTY to get it all back together.

[BA80]

That bearing housing can be carefully pried off, go evenly around each side, it is a tight fit.

Greg, I never have had to take that shift drum out or flip the bike over to service the trans. gears.

Too bad. Both make it MUCH easier except for, like I said, the shift drum detent.

[joep7]

If the transmission is indeed "jammed" between gears or in gear will the shaft still pop out following this procedure? Is there enough wiggle room?

[joep7]

That bearing housing can be carefully pried off, go evenly around each side, it is a tight fit.

Greg, I never have had to take that shift drum out or flip the bike over to service the trans. gears.

Alright cool. I have just learned the hard way to never pry without checking first

[BA80]

Ps.

Bought it as is with a 4 into 1 exhaust and cheap emgo pods.

Do these things run as bad as 70's and 80's hondas without the stock airbox?

It came with the stock box and I plan on putting it back on but just wondered.

Those Emgo pods will cover the air vents in the carbs and make it run like crap. If you can make some kind of extensions, stacks, they will work OK though.

[joep7]

Those Emgo pods will cover the air vents in the carbs and make it run like crap. If you can make some kind of extensions, stacks, they will work OK though.

Yup same deal with my hondas. I will put the airbox back on. Didnt buy a beefy 1100 to only get "ok" performance

[motoman]

Ps.

Bought it as is with a 4 into 1 exhaust and cheap emgo pods.

Do these things run as bad as 70's and 80's hondas without the stock airbox?

It came with the stock box and I plan on putting it back on but just wondered.

Yup..........those CV carbs are designed to work best with a controlled intake enviroment, thru ALL the rpm range.

[Rasputin]

This thread shows how I flipped the bike myself when I had to do the fix.
http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31895
I think there may be some photos in there that may help.

[joep7]

This thread shows how I flipped the bike myself when I had to do the fix.
http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31895
I think there may be some photos in there that may help.

Awesome thanks...Ill check it out

[DGXSER]

I am with Phil on the shift drum. I have done this repair at least five times over the years, and I have not removed a shift drum yet, or flipped a bike. I am sure flipping it will be easier, but with yours up on the lift you have there, it may not be all that much easier.

As for that bearing housing, I have VERY carefully used a wooden dowel with a small hammer to tap it around, which then lets you get behind the "ears" a little better to LIGHTLY pry on those to work it out. It has to be evenly pried out.

And yes, you have to remove the bolt in the other end of the countershaft.

Now, if it is stuck in a gear, is it then not in fourth gear?? I have never tried this without it in fourth gear, so not sure what that does to getting things apart.

[BA80]

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[jetmechmarty]

The oil pump pick-up has to come off as well.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Joep7,

This may be too late, but that bearing cap is an interference type fit for about an inch depth. As stated by others, once you get the 3 torx screws out...they are locktited in there....then you can rotate that cap, and that can then help you to pull on it as you rotate it which will help you SLIDE it outwards. If you just try prying on one side/edge you can possibly wedge it since it's such a tight fit!

Do a search for filter pods and read thru some threads, pros and cons. Several like the ease of R&R the carbs with just pods vs. the OEM airbox. Yes, the EMGO pods interfere with the inlet bell ports, but we have also learned that mounting ANY pods onto velocity stack type tubes help straighten the airflow and this helps with the low rpm grunt, you still get the niftyer engine/intake sound of the Pods as well as the looks, and tuning them is not difficult with the tubes mounted.

Once you get the bearing cap off, and the 5th gear wheel off the end of the countershaft, you can look closely at the countershaft and primary shaft gears and see if you can see 2 gears meshed with 1, and then slide them apart which should then release the countershaft...so you can then turn the rear wheel which actuating the shift lever to get it up into 4th gear which puts the gears in better locations for being able to remove the countershaft group of gears!

I, too, have never removed the shift drum, it has helped me to ensure that I've gotten the bike in 4th gear, as well as then putting the shift forks back in and a test run of shifting thru the gears when/after assembled.

T.C.

[joep7]

Honey do now list got in the way yesterday but toda I plan to get some work done. My concern with ths whole thing is that the bike locked up doing 35ish. So I am assumi g it is in 2 or 3.

As far as the pods go....I really don't mind these bikes with the air box on and I figure it will be easy to get a baseline if I can get everything back to stock. Maybe then I will mess with unis and stacks or some k&ns.

[joep7]

Ok...Lots done today.

Came up with a nice way to flip the bike using a hoist.

Chained to the rear support. Lowered lift and raised hoist



Set it back down on the down tubes. Repositioned then lifted.



Finally stabilized it on its back. Worked well.



Glad I did. Transmission was a mess.