powder coating

[chevy45412001]

Has anyone had there engine parts powder coated?Including head or jugs,carbs etc.? i was just thinking instead of paint.I've had to sandblast that stuff before,holly molly that is some tuff stuff.

[POOLBOY]

Power coat

Guy I work with does custom powder coat from his house/shop.
Right here in Rockford.

[chad3971]

There's a guy in Washington, Il that does powder coating....but I remember he said that it needs to conduct electricity and withstand 400-500 deg (F). But I think he also said if your parts get hotter than that you have problems with it. I highly doubt that and air cooled engine gets that hot under normal driving conditions. However, I would find someone with a heat gun and check the temp of the parts, with it parked at a high rev and on a hot day just to make sure. If I spent the money and time to have that done I would be 100% sure of not burning it off. Lots of luck keep the posts up to date please...I'd like to see pics of it if you have it done.

Chad

[Dragonrider]

Powdercoating works fine on engine parts. Only the exhaust pipes on the XS are too hot (won't work there).

Be sure and thoroughly clean the inside of the parts for loose powdercoating dust before you put your engine together . . . that stuff is "heat-set" so you don't want it wandering around inside your newly assembled engine.

I've seen several machines done this way. Looks great. On the XS . . . I would powdercoat the jugs and then polish off the edges of the fins so the color was only between the fins.

The powdercoating is much more durable than paint as far as heat and fading etc . . . but it can be chipped.

Good luck!

[nashville_bill]

Check out the information at Caswell Plating: www.caswellplating.com

[Dennyz]

I found it too much trouble (and expensive) to tear the motor down to have it powder coated.

I power coated the easy stuff to get off, like side covers, valve cover, and clutch case. I used PJ-1 Satin Engine Case Paint on the rest of the motor. It looks great and wears like iron. I think the contrast between the satin engine block and glossy power coated side covers looks very sharp. I used a file to expose the edge of the aluminum fins also. I left the clutch cover, middle drive cover stock because that is where your boots rub when riding.

I have over 40k miles on my engine paint job and it is still look like new. The only place I see it wearing off is on the edge of the tops of the outside carbs, where my leg rubs on them. I little squirt with PJ-1 and they are good to go.

[John]

Denny, where did you buy this PJ-1 paint? I'm going to be painting an engine soon, and I'm looking for a good paint. How much does it cost? Is it in a spray can, or does it need to sprayed with a paint gun?
thanx

[Dennyz]

John,

I bought it in a 11 oz. rattle can from my local cycle shop. I used 2 cans.

PJ1 Coatings
FAST BLACK
Satin Black
500 deg. F (260 deg C)
Engine & Case Paint

It run around $7.00 a can.

Ff you go to www.google.com and search for "PJ1 Engine Paint", you should find a bunch of places to buy it on line.

[2fast]

TEMPERATURES

Going back to the temp questions....when my XS was not running correctly, I used my infrared thermometer and shot each header pipe to determine which cylinders were firing. It was VERY apparent if they were not running. The firing cylinders were 450 to low 500's farenheit. Yeah, I could have used my hand, but as a gadget geek, infrared is more fun. It was also interesting to see how hot the pipes actually got!

[crawlspace2112]

if you do powdercoat make sure you hone the cylinders after to get them round again. the heat twists them a little. a real hone job, not a three finger or ball hone. this will not get your cylinder walls straight.

[crawlspace2112]

no one mentioned the harley wrinkle paint which i think works pretty damn good and looks nice too. durability is good on a clean and i mean "clean" motor. and you can still polish the fins too.

[Dennyz]

Can't say enough about CLEAN when painting an engine.

I washed my engine down with Kerosene first to get the big greasy chucks (engine bottom). Then gave it two scrub downs with hot water and Simple Green. Finished off with a good long pressure rinsing with hot water and dry clean air to blow the water off.

Before painting I let the engine sit under heat lamps for half a day to get up to 70deg. F.

[chevy45412001]

clean

ok ,so clean is king.I'm a bodyman by trade.I've not seen to many paints stick to bare metal without first using a metal etching primer.Then a good sealer than paint. Or i am missled and thats not needed?

[crawlspace2112]

my only concern would be with how much heat can your vinyl wash take and are you using a type that fills like a primer or just act as a sealing agent for the aluminum to paint. if you just give it a 20 minute flash time you can go right to paint. then can your paint you use take the heat too. we've all seen it done to cars and bikes. maybe it's an additive like a flattening agent. ask your paint rep he should know, i'll ask mine here too.

[chevy45412001]

heat

Regular paint can take heat,a lot actually.I've personaly seen many people paint thier car motors with reg. automotive paint.And also saw them up to years later.As long as they were kept up on they looked fine.I'm just kicjking around the idea of powder coating.Had my side covers powder coated a few years ago. (mine are made of metal)(well the outer ring is metal)They looked good and was still fine when i repainted them.Just curious As to motor parts never seen it on bikes.