My key fell out of the ignition while going down the highway, no spare. What to do?

[JeremyL]

Yeah that's right, I had the key in the ignition and was cruising about 70mph down the highway when the I remember hearing a metallic sound and though oh crap hope something didn't break on my bike. Stopped at a gas station to get gas and realized that the key was gone! The clutch cable is routed in front of the key switch because I have superbike bars and sometimes it would be touching the key. I think I hit a bump and it must have hit the edge of the key and knocked it out. My ignition switch is so worn out that the key would come out without being turned off. LUCKILY I had a flat head screw driver in my saddlebag so I was able to pop my tank lid open and get gas. I also found out that my ignition switch was so worn that I can put the flat head end of the screw driver barely in, or even another car key, and turn it and it works.

So I can still ride my bike but when I get gas I have to pop the lid open with the screw driver and then every time I get off the bike or on I have to fish my car keys out of my pocket and use one of them to turn the ignition.

Now my question is, what to do about it? The number on my gas cap and ignition is 4025 but when I called two Yamaha dealers one said they had no idea how to make a key from the number, ugh. And the second said the four digit number is just used to match the gas and ignition cap and that the number to make a key is a five digit and I have to pull the entire ignition to find it. Is that correct? I thought the 4 digit could be used but I wasn't going to argue with him.

I even thought I had read something on here before about gutting the locks somehow so that I could just use a key blank from eBay and skip messing with locksmiths. It's not the prettiest bike and I live in the boonies so I'm not worried about anyone stealing it or stealing my gas but I'm not 100% sure that I want to wire up a toggle switch for the ignition just because of pure laziness.

So I'm wondering if I could somehow gut the cylinders and then buy a cheap $4 blank on eBay and just not have it cut. Is that even an option? I don't like the idea of pulling my screw driver out or even a car key to start the bike or open the gas cap. Am I going to have to completely remove the ignition cylinder regardless?

[tarzan]

I have had keys made for several XS1100's mad at a locksmith using just those numbers. You should call around and find one who can.
Another thing is, it sounds like your locks are no good anyway? I would just buy the whole set on ebay.
Here are a couple I found pretty easy. If you have the Special tank, obviously you would want one like that. I don't remember if the gas cap lock is interchangeable between Standards and Specials

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1977-1978-YA...4b064c&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/IGNITION-KEY...1a8d75&vxp=mtr

[JeremyL]

I have had keys made for several XS1100's mad at a locksmith using just those numbers. You should call around and find one who can.
Another thing is, it sounds like your locks are no good anyway? I would just buy the whole set on ebay.
Here are a couple I found pretty easy

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1977-1978-YA...4b064c&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/IGNITION-KEY...1a8d75&vxp=mtr

I think I'll call some locksmiths and see what they say. At least the Special's gas cap comes off easy in case they want the whole thing. I would just buy the entire ignition and gas cap set but I am really tight with cash right now and there's no way I can justify $70 for something that's not even totally necessary. My gas cap lock isn't worn out at all is works tight and will not open with a screw driver or other key in it (I have to put the screwdriver blade under the cap and pop it).

[Gallaecus]

the first link shows a different key number than what is on ignition or cap so I would think that key doesnt fit anything but helmet hook.

the second is chrome and not gold chrome and was shot with a filter on camera, seems deceptive to me.

I'd pass on both of those too.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1977-1978-YA...4b064c&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/IGNITION-KEY...1a8d75&vxp=mtr[/QUOTE]

[DGXSER]

See if the numbers on you ignition and your gas cap match, they may not. That may be why someone took the tumblers out of your ignition lock.

A lock smith should be able to key them the same and make a couple keys for you. I did a thread a while ago on how to disassemble the key switch, and another earlier yet on the gas cap. You could pull the tumblers out of the gas cap lock and then use anything like a key or screwdriver to turn both.

[Gallaecus]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-1980-...8b4dce&vxp=mtr


make offer on that one !!!

[JeremyL]

Thanks for the help guys. I found a small key from an old IBM server I had at work and it fit well into the ignition and would turn it on and off. So I decided to pull the tumblers from the gas cap lock and just use my cool new IBM keys. Don't ask how but I broke the clip part of the gas cap lock that clips the lid shut. Also stripped a screw that holds the mechanism down.

So I'm thinking I now have two options. Buy the set Gallaecus posted and do it the right way so that I actually have working matched keys (but have to pull the ignition --don't use or care about helmet lock). Or my other option is to spend $15 less and get just a Special cap and key and use my IBM keys for my old ignition. When I originally wasn't going to spend a dime I was okay with the IBM keys and all that byatt since I'm looking at spending $25 for the cap anyways I, thinking about just buying the entire set and just doing it right because the IBM keys are still loose and will likely fall out.

So how hard is it to replace the ignition switch? Gas cap is super easy, one screw. If the ignition is a big pain that's gonna matter more than the $15 difference in cost. I searched the site for instructions on removing it but kept seeing stuff about the ignition like spark plugs.

Also, before I make Offer on the 80 set, will the 80 switch wiring connector work on my 79?

[DiverRay]

Ignition switch is easy, two 10mm bolts. With a 1/4" drive, 6" extension, and a swivel between it and a short socket. You should be able to come up from under/behind the headlight housing. You will NOT be able to see the bolts, but they are there. One bolt on each side of the ignition switch. The aluminum housing "hides" the bolts for security...

[DGXSER]

The stripped screw I am not sure of, but as to it not latching I am willing to bet it is just a matter of how you held the latch when you reassembled it. It can be a little tricky to get back correctly.

[jwhughes3]

So I'm thinking I now have two options. Buy the set Gallaecus posted and do it the right way so that I actually have working matched keys (but have to pull the ignition --don't use or care about helmet lock). Or my other option is to spend $15 less and get just a Special cap and key and use my IBM keys for my old ignition. When I originally wasn't going to spend a dime I was okay with the IBM keys and all that byatt since I'm looking at spending $25 for the cap anyways I, thinking about just buying the entire set and just doing it right because the IBM keys are still loose and will likely fall out.

I would buy a cap/key combo - pull tumblers and use in igntion and leave cap as an any key opens - this protects bike better and only puts gas at risk.

John

[JeremyL]

I would buy a cap/key combo - pull tumblers and use in igntion and leave cap as an any key opens - this protects bike better and only puts gas at risk.

John

Well today I was trying to pull the tumblers out of the gas cap lid today and when i got i took the twice small screws out the pieces fell apart and I was trying to get the stuff back together without removing tumblers because I couldn't figure out how. And to make it worse when I decided to abort and just go back The lip that hooks to the tank got stuck and while prying I broke a hunk off. So it is pretty much junk anyways. I was hoping to maybe spend just a little (like $30-40) and not have to do much work, not because I"m lazy but because I have a job and family. I'm afraid I'd screw up the tumbler part again. I couldn't find a way to get them out of the cylinder.

The stripped screw I am not sure of, but as to it not latching I am willing to bet it is just a matter of how you held the latch when you reassembled it. It can be a little tricky to get back correctly.

Actually broke a hunk off

Ignition switch is easy, two 10mm bolts. With a 1/4" drive, 6" extension, and a swivel between it and a short socket. You should be able to come up from under/behind the headlight housing. You will NOT be able to see the bolts, but they are there. One bolt on each side of the ignition switch. The aluminum housing "hides" the bolts for security...

That doesn't sound too bad but I usually have bad luck with bolts I can't see. I don't know what it is but working in the grass/gravel is awful. I spent 20 min today finding one of those tiny gas cap screws in the gravel after I dropped it. So if the 'long way' isn't too much more time consuming I'd just get whatever out of the way. The Yamaha service guy told me there may be rivets or something I'd have to drill out but then just put regular bolts back in. I was hoping it was just a regular bolt head there already from the factory. Is he right?

[tarzan]

Like Fred said.Two 10MM bolts.Easy peasy

[JeremyL]

Like Fred said.Two 10MM bolts.Easy peasy

I dont know why but I thought it was going to be a big ordeal. To get full access (and because I don't have a swivel) would I remove the headlight bucket?

[crazy steve]

Easier to just remove the top tree; that way you don't disturb your headlight adjustment.

Remove the stem bolt, loosen the pinch bolts, and just lift the tree/bars/etc off. Do pull the headlight, as you need access inside the bucket to unplug stuff.

[JeremyL]

Easier to just remove the top tree; that way you don't disturb your headlight adjustment.

Remove the stem bolt, loosen the pinch bolts, and just lift the tree/bars/etc off. Do pull the headlight, as you need access inside the bucket to unplug stuff.

My headlight bucket was missing a few adjusting parts that I just installed recently. But I haven't adjusted it yet, just eyeballed it. I'm sure it's way off anyway but haven't rode at night yet.

Is it easier then to take the bucket out?