brake question

[Axel]

bleeder screw

My rear caliper bleeder screw has always been broken . Bleed as nmuch as you can from the banjo fitting then try blocking the pedal overnight . IIRC I bled at the master as well as the caliper end of the line .

[crazy steve]

....you could even use a right front from a Standard on the rear if need be.

You could, but it will be very hard to bleed. While the basic casting is the same, where the bleeder is drilled into the body is different and you will find it extremely hard to get all the air out....

[fredintoon]

Out! Out! Out!

I tried the vise grips (it is completely rounded at this stage) and the metal is just too soft it just twists off pieces rounding it more. I used heat too. I will try blocking the pedal down.

Hi JJ,
that's the Saxon host's war shout at the battle of Hastings
You gotta get that sucker out of there. That or find a replacement caliper. Horsing around trying to bleed the system from elsewhere is a sure road to grief and frustration.
Bust the thing off flush and use a left-hand drill bit to remove the stub.
Hopefully the drill will bind up and whiz the stub out of there.

[bikerphil]

You could, but it will be very hard to bleed. While the basic casting is the same, where the bleeder is drilled into the body is different and you will find it extremely hard to get all the air out....

I have a rear on my right front and didn't have any problems bleeding, YMMV.

[jjz28]

Well, I used a set of needle nose vise grips and it came out. I bled the master cylinder by holing the end of the hose but it never got a lot of pressure. The brakes will barely move while trying to bleed. I will get a little air, then a little fluid and then sometimes the brakes quit moving completely. I know the master cylinder worked before I took it apart but I only had it apart for a few minutes to clean and put it right back together. I tried my trick of the syringe and that didn't work either. Are these things that hard to bleed? I blocked the pedal down and am going to let it sit. I hope I was supposed to leave the bleeder open after I blocked it down. Thanks for your help.

[bikerphil]

A good trick to bleed the rear if you don't have a mighty vac is to let the caliper hang below the level of the MC with the bleeder open and let the fluid trickle out making sure the reservoir doesn't go empty. Also, if you disturbed the adjustment of the brake pedal plunger and it is pushing the MC piston in too far and not letting it fully release it will be impossible to bleed. Proper adjustment procedure is explained in the FSM. Keep at it, you will get it.

[jjz28]

I never thought of it being adjusted too far. I will check that, I haven't ever adjusted it but the previous owner probably has. thanks again.

[jjz28]

I am going to try and bleed the master cylinder again. Now, should I pump it a couple of times while I hold the line that the banjo bolt goes through and then let off the pressure while the brake is down to let the air escape past my fingers? Should it have enough pressure to blow my fingers off? I cant get a lot of pressure. I can feel it when I pump the brake but it wont blow my fingers off. Once in a while when it gets full of fluid, it will squirt past my fingers.

[bikerphil]

I am going to try and bleed the master cylinder again. Now, should I pump it a couple of times while I hold the line that the banjo bolt goes through and then let off the pressure while the brake is down to let the air escape past my fingers? Should it have enough pressure to blow my fingers off? I cant get a lot of pressure. I can feel it when I pump the brake but it wont blow my fingers off. Once in a while when it gets full of fluid, it will squirt past my fingers.

I usually do something similar, except I do that at the master cylinder with the hose removed (bench bleed) until the pressure builds up, then attach the line and bleed at the caliper. The rear system on these bikes is notorious for being a PITA to bleed, most use a mity vac. They are only about $20 at Harbor Freight and a great tool to have in your shop.

Edit: If you are still having problems and can't get it to build pressure, somtimes the plunger piston cup in the MC gets pushed in too far and needs to be removed and re-configured properly.

[jjz28]

Ok, found the problem. I unbolted the caliper and removed the dust boot and saw the piston was leaking around it a little. So, I walked over to the xs750 and took that caliper off and try the pressure on the master cylinder of the 750 and it was much better. So, I swapped the mc and caliper out and it works great now. They work good but I swear either my pads are glazed or the bikes don't stop too good. I am going to get new pads since those had lots of heat many times. I had them smoking a bunch of times where they would slowly lock up. Anyone recommend a pad or are they all about the same?

[bikerphil]

EBC kevlar type (FA-34) work well for me. If you scuff the rotor up on both sides with 80 grit and get the glazing off, the pads will bed in real nice, might take a couple hundred miles to get them 'broken in'.

[jetmechmarty]

I used a paint stripping wheel on a drill motor to resurface the brake rotor. I works great. The new pads bed in quick.

[jjz28]

Thanks guys, going to order some pads now! Just ordered the ebc's you recommended, thank you.

[jjz28]

Got the pads on and went to ride but the tire had been going flat overnight with a slow leak so I took some water and sprayed in it and the bead was leaking all the way around. Man those tires are a PITA to get off the rim. I gave up and took it to the shop and they took it off, cleaned the rim of all the white crap that was in it and put me in a new valvestem for $31. That was worth it to me. I ruffed up the calipers with the paint removing wheel and put back together. The back brakes stop really well but I think the front need bled more. Had a nice little ride though.