changing fork oil

[JCHarth]

Hello I am was looking around for a quick fix for my bike bouncy forks.

Found this video to change the oil

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=38yXx64liCM

is it that easy? or is it different? Any oil recommendations? May be heavy oil?

[Tat2demon]

I just changed the seals in mine this weekend for the first time. Yep its that easy. Drain it, pump the forks a few times to get the old oil out, refill with 212 CC or 7.12oz. I used an old turkey injector for mine.

I went with 15w oil since Im a fat bastard at 6'3" and 335lbs. I know a lot that run large fairings also use 15w.

[Tat2demon]

Just wanted to add that I took off my handlebars to get the tops off. As the video says, be careful taking them off. Lots of spring tension behind them. Get the bike jacked up so there's no weight on the front tire.

[Crusty Snippets]

Fork it

With the building of my new shed, I now can mount a sky hook.
The top ridge beam protrudes enough for me to attach a chain around it, and hang a chain hoist.
Yesterday I lifted the back end to install new shocks. Worked hot damn.
Will lift the front end when I need to.
Unkle Crusty

[Courtney]

On my Special, I've never unscrewd the fork tops because I know all too well what a &*^&%!!!! it is to get them started without crossthreading them. Instead, I unscrewed the air valves and used a big irrigation syringe and slowly squirted the oil down into the forks. Worked like a hot damn, and I do it that way every time I do my forkoil. After that, just screw your schraeder valves back in and be happy. Can't do it on a Stanard though???

[Tat2demon]

Not the 78. No air valves. Not sure about other years.

[Rasputin]

Although it is much harder to remove the forks and do this job properly,this method should work. You will never get it completely drained this way nor will you get it cleaned.
I always remove the forks and dis-assemble them to change the oil and clean them out. Once they are apart you will be amazed at the amount of crud built up in the bottom of the fork tubes. The only way to get them clean is a dis-assembly. If they are not clean you may as well save your money on the oil. Putting clean oil in dirty forks is the same as putting clean shorts on a dirty arse. Good for the first ten minutes.
The easiest way I have found to put the caps back one is to clock them. In other words I put the caps on before the springs are in and twist them as if I was taking them off. They will click when they drop down a thread. Quick mark on the cap with a pencil or such and note the position. Install the spring. Place the cap in the clocked position, push down and screw it in 1/4 turn and the cap is now started in it's threads. I find this to be very easy and need no special tools to do it. never failed me yet.
If you want the forks to work as if they are new they must be clean and all dirty oil and crud must be removed. The oil and crud is completely removed if you clean them. If you use this hillbillies (yahoo guy) method then you do not know the total amount of oil in the fork as some may drain out but never all of it.
The handling and your life depend on those front forks working properly. I would not do the job unless I was doing a complete clean and change. The other benefit is you can change your fork seals if they need it at this time or as a preventative measure as they are cheap once you are into it this far.

[Tat2demon]

Good points Rasputin. Its really not much work to pull the forks off.

[donebysunday]

Hello I am was looking around for a quick fix for my bike bouncy forks.

Found this video to change the oil

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=38yXx64liCM

is it that easy? or is it different? Any oil recommendations? May be heavy oil?

This guy,,,,,,,,, what can I say ? Maybe I'm not much better but here is my way.
Loosen the pinch bolts on the upper triple tree, makes getting the top fork plug out easier.

I remove the drain screws, I cut old milk jugs to fit between the forks and wheel ( you have to push them on and they just clamp onto the forks depending on how you make your cuts ) compress the forks the oil just squirts into the milk jugs when you compress the forks. If you want to flush them put a block or jack under the front of the engine take the caps/plugs out/off the top of the forks ( careful, he was right here ) and fill with some light detergent oil. Put the cap back on remove the block and compress again, fill and again fill until the oil comes out clean. Install the drain screw.

Loosen the pinch bolts on the upper triple tree, makes getting the top fork plug out easier.

In fact I ( at least on my XS650s ) I remove the upper triple tree and suspend it from the garage ceiling leaving most cables, gauges attached just to get it out of the way. Put a block under the front engine mount to take the pressure off the forks. Put the drains back in and fill with the correct amount of oil ( I use transmission fluid, it has anti leak seal savers in it ) like the man said turn the plugs counter clockwise until the plug threads click into place and then clockwise to tighten ( this can be a trick but you don't want to cross thread those plugs ! )

With the air front forks let the air out and do likewise except you don't have to mess with the top plugs you can use a measured syringe and can fill right through the air fillers with the valves removed.

Sorry more than 2 cents.